Replacing brake line. Rear T to right rear.

[omegared]

So I dusted off my project car for the spring. 1971 super. Last fall when I put it away the brakes were getting pretty weak. Went to bleed them the other day and heard a pop when pumping the brakes... uh oh. I go around back and wouldn't ya know it there's brake fluid pouring from somewhere up above the transmission nosecone area. Brake line blew out.

So tracing the brake lines I see that this line runs from the rear T (left hand side of car) to the right rear. I'm pretty sure I can cut the old one and get it out in 2 pieces but how the hell are you supposed to get the new one in? I can't even really see where it runs exactly. It kinda looks like this line is factory installed before the body is put on.
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Volkswagens don't like trees, make all necessary efforts to keep your VW from meeting one.

1966 Bus
1976 Bus
1971 Standard Beetle

[Schepp]

The line going into the tee runs through a grommet hole in the body and runs parallel along side the tunnel on the floor all the way up to the master cylinder underneath the gas tank.
Its not fun to replace. I've done it twice.

You can try and repair the line without replacing it in its entirety but it'll likely fail again elsewhere.
I used the pre-fitted stainless steel lines from the Jbugs kit for the outside hard lines and used softer steel line in the cab. Easier to bend and flare. Then Braided stainless flex lines at the pivots.

If the hard lines are failing, I suggest replacing all of the lines or you be doing this again soon. Buy yourself a good quality turret style flaring tool. not those cheapo ones with the wing nuts.

Also replacing the bleed screws with "Speed Bleeders" will save you tons of time for the bleeding process.
M6x1.0 is the thread size.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELSB6100.h...pqCAJHXyo1

Save your old lines as templates for bending the new lines!

[omegared]

[Schepp]

You could add a coupler along a straight section to make it two lines instead of one long single line. It would add another potential leak point but it would save you the hassle of replacing the entire line.
I've learned my lesson, don't buy cheap fittings. Buy the steel ones. They seal better and don't round off as easily.

[clockworkbox]

I just replaced that line with the body off and it was a chore. The replacement line everyone sells is 21.6"/550mm but I found this to be too long and had to do some creative bending to fit the line. I measured my original VW line and it was around 19" as best I could measure with my tape. There is a metal tab that holds that line to the chassis and it is very close to the pan gasket. Local auto parts store here carries 20" length 3/16" M10x1.0 line with the correct flare, but make sure that you get bubble flared line, double flare is the wrong kind. Good luck.
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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...

[Schepp]

^^^^^^
This!
I ended up running the line on top of the tunnel instead of on the floor. My car is a Baja with a turning brake setup. So its a bit different than stock now.

[my3bugs]

usualy its the rubber line that goes POP .

you cant really remove that metal line till you remove the rubber line first ( unless you just cut it ) , its just the way things are threaded together . the horseshoe clip may needs to come off so you have more wiggle room fitting things ......i just bent the new metal lines over different size sockets n such by hand , no special tools . but these off the T were the hardest to get right because there so short . yes ya had to exaggerate a curve to use up some of the extra length till everything lined up properly . is it kinked bent cracked or damaged ? of if it just rusted thru you may need more than the one metal line . and while your there id consider replacing the rubber lines too ......

you might be talking about the line that goes over the hump to the other side but its done the same way . its gota be harder doing it on a complete car .

these are teflon coated lines from WW imported from Germany .

if you double click the pic it expands to see better .

[omegared]

[Buggeee]

[clockworkbox]

That picture is for a swing axle, the IRS brake line routes differently I think. A bit harder to get to. Heres how my '69 routes.

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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...

[omegared]

[clockworkbox]

I found this in the gallery, you could probably just cut what you can reach of the old line out and run a line over the trans like this. The routing of the line should not affect its function. Its a bit ugly but not an area you will see very often and this is probably the easiest solution.

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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...

[clockworkbox]

This is another option that keeps the line away from the body. It will still be a pain to do but functional. The idea of loosening the fittings is a good idea, if you twist the fittings a bit so they are more perpendicular to the frame horns it will be easier to thread the ends of the line.

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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...