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Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start?
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 12:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

poundman wrote:
Ordering part for my transmisson refresh and I have a few questions. I have 002 trans.

Transmission side

Rear final drive seals (I have the caps already)
https://www.busdepot.com/002301189c

Do I need Nosecone Bushing & Seal Kit
https://www.busdepot.com/001301200

Manual Transmission Main Input Shaft Seal
https://www.busdepot.com/113311113a

Throwout bearing
https://www.busdepot.com/113141165b

Clutch kit - I had to cut the old one out
https://www.busdepot.com/211798335x


Engine Side

Pilot shaft bearing (needle bearing) Does this go behind the seal?
https://www.busdepot.com/002311125a

Rear Crankshaft seal
https://www.busdepot.com/029105245

Front crankshaft seal
https://www.busdepot.com/021105247a

What am I missing?


You be careful removing the 002 side seals. Do not damage what is behind it. You do not need to remove the adjusters to pull the seal but use the right tool. Last year we had someone on this forum damage the bearings behind it replacing those seals. Use the correct seal puller.

The nosecone will be worn into by the main bearing. This allows the alignment of the gears to change. You will want to sand it or mill it and put in a steel plate that will hold the main bearing where it should be. Also replace the donut inside the nosecone, and check the selector lever for cracks. They do break.

in a type 1 engine the pilot bearing is in the gland nut. In a type 4 engine it sits in the crankshaft. You will need a pilot bearing puller to remove it. Weddle will have any parts you need.

plate

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 12:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

If the flywheel and clutch cover aren't badly scored, I just take a Dremel with a ball stone on it and quickly go over the surface with a back and forth motion. This idea is to lightly roughen the surface taking hardly any material off, just a couple of minute on each the flywheel and clutch cover will do.
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poundman
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 1:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:


You be careful removing the 002 side seals. Do not damage what is behind it. You do not need to remove the adjusters to pull the seal but use the right tool. Last year we had someone on this forum damage the bearings behind it replacing those seals. Use the correct seal puller.

The nosecone will be worn into by the main bearing. This allows the alignment of the gears to change. You will want to sand it or mill it and put in a steel plate that will hold the main bearing where it should be. Also replace the donut inside the nosecone, and check the selector lever for cracks. They do break.

in a type 1 engine the pilot bearing is in the gland nut. In a type 4 engine it sits in the crankshaft. You will need a pilot bearing puller to remove it. Weddle will have any parts you need.

plate

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks, I did read about the person damaging the bearings. I was very careful and have removed 1 side with a seal puller. No damage. The cap and the ring were harder than removing the seal.

I will need to search some videos for the nosecone kit. Besides making sure the main bearing doesn't come out, is there any other risks. Is it worth doing? I am not sure how the plate be used while replacing.

On needle bearing, yes I will order a puller.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 2:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

I've never heard of the main bearing falling out. Later bays with the 091 have a half moon retainer that minimizes the bearing from spinning, but 002 lack that. Just go slow and careful.

If you get up the nerve, you can pull the bellhousing and inspect the ring gear and lock nut to make sure the ring and pinion are not spalling and that the lock nut is not coming loose. That is a subject all on its own.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

i think you also need a o- ring that goes on the engine side of the flywheel.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
i think you also need a o- ring that goes on the engine side of the flywheel.
get the good one that has the silver colored dust on it and not a cheap repop.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
i think you also need a o- ring that goes on the engine side of the flywheel.


Is this the o-ring you are referring to? This says up to 1971.
https://www.busdepot.com/311105295a

Maybe those are in one of these kits
https://www.bughaus.com/type252.htm
https://www.busdepot.com/021198009b
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 7:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

I tested the end play. It was .005 inch, which is within tolerance. It felt very tight. Now the dumb question, are the bolts holding onto the flywheel reverse thread or regular. I could not move them but I stopped because I didn't want to make a mistake. I might need to clean the oil off the bolts and get more leverage, or borrow a impact driver.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

flywheel bolts are standard RH thread. Maybe with some loctite for extra insurance.? : l
could be worse. could be the type 1 Gland Nut.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 9:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

the o-ring is part number 021-105-279 for a type 4 engine. The good ones will look silver but it is a coating on them.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 6:19 am    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

my back yard method,i used a deep socket and a extension to increase leverage,note my fly wheel holding tool.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1587629.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 9:04 am    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
the o-ring is part number 021-105-279 for a type 4 engine. The good ones will look silver but it is a coating on them.


Thanks for the part number. Do you happen to know the part number for the o-ring on the front side?
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
my back yard method,i used a deep socket and a extension to increase leverage,note my fly wheel holding tool.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1587629.jpg


That is a great picture and ideas. I did purchase the lock, i just need more leverage. I guess 80 lbs is a lot for a regular socket wrench. Plus the whole engine was turning sideways, I need to secure it better to the ATV lift I have it on. My biggest fear is breaking a bolt head at this point.

Another thing I just realized is that I might want to remove the front bolts/stuff before I remove the flywheel because I need that as leverage.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

buy a breaker bar and also make sure you have a torque wrench that reads to 80 ft lbs accurately.

flywheel lock https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Flywheel-Holder-Volkswagen-Porsche/dp/B0BZ4H2ZWB
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

80 ft lbs s not very tight ,think of a wheel nut at 100 ft lbs,there may be lock tight on the bolts,they are a fairly stout bolt,i don,t think they will snap off with hand tools.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 2:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

they use a thin metal plate that needs to be replaced as a locking method.

Poundman - What O-ring are you referring to? The one between the fan mount adapter and the crankshaft?
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 3:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

I think you are mistaken on that SGKent,the bolts are self locking,serrations under the head,,yes there is a washer ring that goes under the bolts but it don,t get bent,i beleive it's there partly to give the self locking bolts something to bite into without marring the fly wheel.
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1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

I just put two bolts into the flywheel, and use a longish tire iron between the bolts with its other end on the ground to keep the crank from turning.

I use the larger of these two bars

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The bolt the holding the fan hub to the crank has a very low torque, so very little force is normally needed to remove it, even if it has loctite on the threads.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 3:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
I think you are mistaken on that SGKent,the bolts are self locking,serrations under the head,,yes there is a washer ring that goes under the bolts but it don,t get bent,i beleive it's there partly to give the self locking bolts something to bite into without marring the fly wheel.
I am not mistaken. The softer metal ring/plate can't rotate because it is locked by the bolts going thru the holes. The softer metal allows the bolts to bite into it rather than marring the crankshaft. It can be flipped over if a new one is not available at the moment.

VW says to replace the bolts but originals went NLA a couple years ago. For what it is worth, a friend and I were putting a Corvair flywheel back on years ago and the flywheel bolts had crystalized in the six or seven years old that they were. They snapped way below the specified torque. As I recall, about 35 - 40 ft lbs they sheered. For that reason I keep spare flywheel bolts around and never discard them, using the spares for mock up and end play adjusting, and saving the good new ones for final assembly. I am well aware how those bolts bite into the metal plate. Smile
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Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2025 5:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start? Reply with quote

my apologies ,i read your post as having to bend the washer to lock the bolt.i agree that the washer is there to give the lock bolts some bite
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