TDI DMF issues

[willyok]

DMF TDI syncro issues.

Ok guys dropped the entire drive train to complete some work on the engine and transmission. Engine is a 1z/ahu. No adapter plates using a diesel bell housing.

I had the transmission rebuilt by Rancho. At this time I also decided to upgrade the Stock diesel clutch with a LUK DMF kit. Install went smooth and I provided Rancho with the appropriate TDI input shaft that was installed when they rebuild. I also clearances the bell housing for the new DMF and there is no evidence of any contact.

fast forward, I got the engine running and upon start up it seemed good with me getting all of the gears. I should also note I installed a new clutch and slave as well as a new Stainless flex line.

After approximately 2 hours of idling (chasing leaks and wrong connections) I finally took it for a drive. Very quickly I noticed the clutch not fully disengaging so I had to turn off the engine to get it into gear. Within the 3 mile ride home, the clutch would so longer disengage at all and I noticed a severe rattle from the bell housing area.

I pulled the transmission and found nothing obvious. The new throw out bearing (OE part number) is smooth and quiet.

The DMF assembly looks normal at a glance but when rocking clockwise/counter clockwise I can get 10-15 degrees of play. I don’t remember feeling this when I installed the assembly.

I also found what appears to be a broken alignment pin from the clutch assembly laying in the bell housing.

At this point I’m confident the DMF has failed based on the sheared dowel pin.

My question is could this also be causing my inability to disengage the clutch?

I used LUK 17-050 DMF kit and a new Sachs throw out bearing.

Did I use the correct parts? Is there something else I’m missing?

I spoke with the vendor I purchased the clutch from. They want me to sent it back to them for them to inspect and determine if it will be covered under a warranty due to defect or if I did something wrong.

I want to use the DMF but what are your guys opinions?

[AndyBees]

I've driven TDI Jettas close to 1 million miles with no DMF issues.

I installed a LUK 17-050 DMF Kit in my TDI Vanagon. The kit included the Flywheel, Clutch Disc and the Pressure Plate. (got it from Amazon)

If I understand correctly, it sounds as if you installed a used DMF and purchased a new clutch disc separately. If so, there is a good possibility that the DMF was trashed before you installed it. A new DMF will only have at most 2 to 3 degrees of free play and it should be very stiff. The correct clutch disc does not have springs in it. Any disc with springs will not work, period.

So, I believe you had a bad DMF from the get go, especially if it is a used one.

When I installed mine in 2017, I was extremely impressed with it... quiet, smooth, etc. I ain't looking back. I initially started with the OE diesel flywheel and then moved to the Single Mass Flywheel (G60). The DMF beats them hands down.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[willyok]

[AndyBees]

Yeah, in your opening post, in the sentence that begins with "fast forward" you use the word "new clutch" which made me think that you installed a separate clutch disc.

Yes, it sounds as if you have a dud DMF kit. And, yes, most likely that's the reason it is not shifting properly. I've never busted open a DMF. So, I have no clue whether it might have a dowel inside, If so, I don't see how it could get out.

It is likely that the dowel came off the outside of the DMF. Seems there are three small dowels for alignment of the Pressure Plate when it is installed. Of course, the kit comes pre-assembled. So, there would be no reason to remove the bolts that hold the Pressure Plate to the DMF. The kit should have also included the six bolts that secure the DMF to the end of the crankshaft.
Those are "one time use" bolts (Yield To Toque [YTT]). The bolts that hold the pressure plate onto the DMF are also YTT, if I remember correctly. However, they should not have been loosened for any reason.

Did you install or have installed a "pilot" bearing in the end of the Crankshaft? If not, the Pilot Shaft (Input Shaft) will not be stable and could cause rough shifting. Also, without a Pilot Bearing, the Pilot Shaft can be damaged and the seal in the Bell Housing will eventually go bad.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[willyok]

[DanHoug]

[willyok]

[mike boland]

[AndyBees]

The first LUK 17-050 DMF I installed was provided by the owner of the vehicle. It did come from Amazon. It has been in service since late 2015 with no problems. Although not necessarily an indicator, but the box/packaging and the item itself looked legit to me.

Then, I installed one from Amazon in my 2000 Jetta TDI at 291k miles as preventive maintenance. My son owns the car now. It is at 401k miles...no problems.

And, I later purchased one from Amazon and installed it in my brother's 01 Jetta, which I now own. It has over 100k miles on it. No problems.

Then, I purchased one from Amazon for my TDI Vanagon and installed it in 2017... no problems.

So, I don't think the LUK 17-050 DMF's that Amazon is selling are counterfeit.

As the OP has stated, his LUK DMF came from IDparts where I too have bought a lot of parts over the years with zero problems other than a set of Lower Control Arm bushings for an MK4 Jetta... they lasted a little over 15k miles.... cheap Meyle and likely made in China.

As we know, all the major name brand companies (and you know the names) have automotive parts Made in China. In most cases at the FLAPS, we have no option other than Made in China junk. And, many of the national parts stores sell "their brands" of parts of which the majority are copies Made in China which are mostly junk.

It will be interesting to see the results here.

OP, keep us posted.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.

[tjet]

[willyok]

[dieseltdi]

1z/ahu didn't have an anti shutter valve!
_________________
When a clown moves into a palace he doesn’t become a king, the palace instead becomes a circus. — Turkish proverb

Those who will willingly sacrifice freedom for security, deserve neither.

Currently:
1982 Vanagon Westy TDI conversion with Coast Mt. Hightop - SKYE
2025 Hyundai Ioniq 6 EV
2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI
Way too many previously owned to list!

[willyok]

[willyok]

Little update.

The Amazon LUK clutch kit arrived today. I’m packaging and product appear identical to the first one I bought from IDParts. So I’m hopeful they are both authentic.

I had meniscus surgery today to I’m going to take a couple days off from working on the bus to be safe and get back on it this weekend.

[DanHoug]

[willyok]

Well neither of the boxes have any sort of scannable code that I can find. Maybe they are old stock before the counterfeit protection went into place?

I guess I could reach out to the manufacturer.

[DanHoug]

[AndyBees]

[Sodo]

Even 2-3 degrees sounds like too much.
I’m no expert, Just curious.
How many mm of slop if measured at the ring gear?
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[willyok]