Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start?

[SGKent]

[poundman]

Ok, I ate my spinach and was able to get the flywheel off. Here are the pictures before cleaning and after. It appears the seal was leaking. It was very brittle. This is consistent with the leaking when split the transmission and all the oil on the bottom side of the engine and transmission. I see the o ring now. Looks like I need to order the round metal plate and some new bolts per recommendation mentioned above.

Tell me what you see. I assume the small round plugs are the ones I need to peen, not the larger one directly below the crank. What is the larger round item?

Before cleaning

After cleaning.

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

cam plug
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

There are three plugs the reside behind the flywheel that you need to peen around, they are all the same size. There are other galley plugs around the engine that are smaller that can also be peened around, but their smaller size means there is less pressure trying to force them out, so it's less important to peen them. The one below the cylinders (can't remember which side) can not be peened with the cylinders installed.

[poundman]

[lil-jinx]

you may be able to remove that roller bearing ,by packing grease in the hole and driving a dowel,with a close fit to the bearing,in the grease will push the bearing out,much like removing the starter bushing.and it should not harm the bearing,
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[SGKent]

clean the plugs with a dremel wire brush, peen very carefully with a sharp punch to fold the aluminum over the plug, clean with acetone on a rag, and cover with JB Weld. They won't come out that way. It is safer than pulling and tapping.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

[poundman]

Bus depot wants $7.5 per bolt and they might only be 8.8 strength. That seems very steep. Anywhere else you suggest.

https://www.busdepot.com/n0143351

Found these also, but not in stock

https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/us/n0143351-flylug-bolt-1700-2000cc-or-waterboxer-manual.html

And this thread discussion on flywheel bolts. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=717876&highlight=flywheel+bolt
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

I would call bus depot and talk with one of the guys / gals who actually order things to be sure they are available in a reasonable period of time. Most places show NLA except for some generic replacements available thru them from Classic VW DE, which can be a repop and not the original VW part. Buslab also shows no longer available so you may have to dig for them. some places sell the N0143361 B instead which is shown as a 25mm long bolt and if accurate as to specs it will bottom out on a bus flywheel and crankshaft. Bus flywheel bolts are 22mm long.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Globedog12]

[Wildthings]

I don't remember a single thread here on the Samba mentioning reused (or even new) flywheel bolts snapping or stretching. If you run 7000 rpms constantly and letting the clutch out at full throttle is your thing then maybe you should use new bolts.

You of course have no idea if every mechanic before you used a torque wrench on the bolt and either too loose or too tight can degrade a bolt in this application.

[SGKent]

[poundman]

[poundman]

[poundman]

I picked up the 2lb harbor freight slide hammer. Unfortunately the hooks are too rounded so it just destroyed the bearing. Now just have the sleeve and the tool will not pull it out. I can either grind down the arms to 90deg angle and try, or just using a dremel and grind down enough to weaken then use needle nose pliers.

I would like to split the fan shroud so I can clean it really good on the inside. I understand there are a few dowels holding it together. It seems they are on the inside edges. Any tips on getting this separated. the oil stick goes thru both sides and makes it more tricky.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

I had a pilot bearing spin when it locked up to the input shaft and weld itself to the crankshaft. I ended up grinding it out with a Dremel like tool. Had to make three cuts to be able to break the welds loose which still didn't take very long.

I have a three finger Harbor freight pilot bearing tool, where you put the three fingers into the bearing and then tighten an adjustment to force the fingers outward and another adjustment to put pressure against the crank to pull the bearing out. Works as well as some of the much more expensive tools I have used.

[Wildthings]

[THall]