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Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2025 11:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Have to think that one thru Mike. I think it bypasses the filter when that ball is open - in case the filter can't pass the oil, and it lacks its own bypass.


It just bypasses the filter element, just like the bypass built into a filter does.

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2025 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Don’t get rid of the ball valve. Here’s why. There are two things that can go wrong with your oil system 1. Oil gets contaminated with dirt and 2. Oil stops flowing. The first is a long-term problem causing wear at the bearings, the second is immediately catastrophic resulting in engine failure. As I interpret the Type 4 design, oil flows into the area above the top of the filter from the oil pump galley entering on the side of the oil filter mount. Normally, the oil then flows through the four holes around the perimeter of the top of the filter. It proceeds through the filter medium and the fully filtered oil enters the central stack, then proceeds out of the filter through the threaded tube at the centre and goes on its merry way to the oil galleys feeding the main bearings and journal bearings. The engine hums along nicely for 200,000 miles.
There are two filter failure scenarios possible with this assembly. In one scenario where the filter is not maintained, oil flows into the filter, however, the filter media becomes blocked, the pressure builds up in the filter and the filter’s internal relief valve at the base of the stack will open (at 2.0 to 4.0 Bar+, not sure about the MANN W920/17 spec), allowing oil to flow through the central stack into the threaded outlet pipe and off to the oil galleys thus averting a catastrophic failure. In the other scenario the entire inlet space of the filter becomes blocked either due to contamination or a blockage at the four filter inlet holes and the filter relief valve cannot operate. In this case the ball valve in the filter mount housing activates, and unfiltered oil passes from the pump galley directly to the bearing galleys, thus averting sudden catastrophic failure.
Why not get rid of the ball valve? If the ball valve is just removed, the oil will by-pass the oil filter in normal operation, even with a perfectly good new filter in place. The engine will run for a while, but wear will be accelerated, and the bearings will fail prematurely. If you remove the ball and plug the port, there will be no engine protection in the event of the second filter failure scenario. Total blockage at the filter will result in immediate engine failure. Those Gnomes in Wolfsburg were logical and conservative for good reason.

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2025 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Good Old Dusty wrote:
Don’t get rid of the ball valve. Here’s why. There are two things that can go wrong with your oil system 1. Oil gets contaminated with dirt and 2. Oil stops flowing. The first is a long-term problem causing wear at the bearings, the second is immediately catastrophic resulting in engine failure. As I interpret the Type 4 design, oil flows into the area above the top of the filter from the oil pump galley entering on the side of the oil filter mount. Normally, the oil then flows through the four holes around the perimeter of the top of the filter. It proceeds through the filter medium and the fully filtered oil enters the central stack, then proceeds out of the filter through the threaded tube at the centre and goes on its merry way to the oil galleys feeding the main bearings and journal bearings. The engine hums along nicely for 200,000 miles.
There are two filter failure scenarios possible with this assembly. In one scenario where the filter is not maintained, oil flows into the filter, however, the filter media becomes blocked, the pressure builds up in the filter and the filter’s internal relief valve at the base of the stack will open (at 2.0 to 4.0 Bar+, not sure about the MANN W920/17 spec), allowing oil to flow through the central stack into the threaded outlet pipe and off to the oil galleys thus averting a catastrophic failure. In the other scenario the entire inlet space of the filter becomes blocked either due to contamination or a blockage at the four filter inlet holes and the filter relief valve cannot operate. In this case the ball valve in the filter mount housing activates, and unfiltered oil passes from the pump galley directly to the bearing galleys, thus averting sudden catastrophic failure.
Why not get rid of the ball valve? If the ball valve is just removed, the oil will by-pass the oil filter in normal operation, even with a perfectly good new filter in place. The engine will run for a while, but wear will be accelerated, and the bearings will fail prematurely. If you remove the ball and plug the port, there will be no engine protection in the event of the second filter failure scenario. Total blockage at the filter will result in immediate engine failure. Those Gnomes in Wolfsburg were logical and conservative for good reason.

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I looked at the mount last night and came to the same conclusion as you did.

My challenge this morning is deciding which gasket to use and whether to use sealant with it. Most sealants will take up .010" on either side of the gasket and squish out. I don't want that. The Victor Reinz seals sold now are .021" thick and have a built in coating. The older Reinzoiloid FS 53 seals sold in the years past are .014" to .017" thick but are cellulose. Neither style compress during use. I measured a new and used Victor Reinz seal and it is the same. The cellulose ones are pretty hard, I don't see them compressing.

The sealers mentioned are like most sealer suggestions - each person has gone with what they think best. A non-hardening sealer like Curil K2, Curil T, Permatex Aviation Gasket sealer, Copper Coat Spray, Gasacinch all squeeze out and can cause the gasket to blow out. A sealer like Indian Head Shellac dries harder but it is still a bit flexible and is suggested at a thickness of .010" each side. That is too much for what I visualize. I wanted something that just wets the gasket, dries hard and then bonds. The blue teflon type sealant used on Felpro gaskets is an example of something thin that bonds. So in about 1/2 an hour I will be forced to make a decision and live with it.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2025 4:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Good Old Dusty wrote:
If you remove the ball and plug the port, there will be no engine protection in the event of the second filter failure scenario. Total blockage at the filter will result in immediate engine failure. Those Gnomes in Wolfsburg were logical and conservative for good reason.


If I remember correctly the original filters for the Type 4 engine application did not have a built in relief so the relief on the filter adapter was all there was. I don't know of any other rigs with spin on filters that has a filter bypass besides what is in the filter, but will admit I have never had any reason to check for such.

You left out one scenario THAT IS KNOWN TO HAPPEN and thus is not just theoretical, and that is the bypass in the filter housing failing open, and thus reducing the amount of oil passing through the filter. Also if the spring were to break it would travel straight to the bearings and likely destroy them in a few revolutions.
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2025 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

yes - I have seen mounts where that part popped out when the staking wore out. Most likely the reason the engine was being parted out.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

In the process of putting it back together. Chatted with Ray privately and I can see his suggestions will work the best. I got a hard rubber roller from Hobby Lobby and some Permatex MotoSeal 1 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Chose the thinnest gasket, which is the Reinzoloid FS 53. Using a piece of blue masking tape upside down on a thick piece of glass, held on by a couple widths of tape normally on both sides, I rolled the mount side of the gasket with a really thin layer of the MotoSeal 1 and let it dry. Then I rolled a second layer on it, and made sure none was on the case side by cleaning with a little Acetone and paper towel. Then stuck it to the filter and mounted it to the case with a little torque to keep it straight. Will give it a couple hours to dry then do a primer coat on the case side of the gasket, let that dry and then a final thin coat on the mount side. Install and torque to spec. I don't anticipate any problems at all from it. Should be an outstanding seal. Thank you Ray. Exactly the kind of gasket seal I was looking for. New technique that I have learned. Will probably reuse the phenolic gaskets for the manifold too this way. The really good red ones are hard to find these days.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
In the process of putting it back together. Chatted with Ray privately and I can see his suggestions will work the best. I got a hard rubber roller from Hobby Lobby and some Permatex MotoSeal 1 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Chose the thinnest gasket, which is the Reinzoloid FS 53. Using a piece of blue masking tape upside down on a thick piece of glass, held on by a couple widths of tape normally on both sides, I rolled the mount side of the gasket with a really thin layer of the MotoSeal 1 and let it dry. Then I rolled a second layer on it, and made sure none was on the case side by cleaning with a little Acetone and paper towel. Then stuck it to the filter and mounted it to the case with a little torque to keep it straight. Will give it a couple hours to dry then do a primer coat on the case side of the gasket, let that dry and then a final thin coat on the mount side. Install and torque to spec. I don't anticipate any problems at all from it. Should be an outstanding seal. Thank you Ray. Exactly the kind of gasket seal I was looking for. New technique that I have learned. Will probably reuse the phenolic gaskets for the manifold too this way. The really good red ones are hard to find these days.


Yes! The phenolic spacers this works really well on. Especially with a fuel proof product like Motoseal, Yamabond or even Indian head (which is the hardest to use but it works). Ray
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 2:56 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
SGKent wrote:
In the process of putting it back together. Chatted with Ray privately and I can see his suggestions will work the best. I got a hard rubber roller from Hobby Lobby and some Permatex MotoSeal 1 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Chose the thinnest gasket, which is the Reinzoloid FS 53. Using a piece of blue masking tape upside down on a thick piece of glass, held on by a couple widths of tape normally on both sides, I rolled the mount side of the gasket with a really thin layer of the MotoSeal 1 and let it dry. Then I rolled a second layer on it, and made sure none was on the case side by cleaning with a little Acetone and paper towel. Then stuck it to the filter and mounted it to the case with a little torque to keep it straight. Will give it a couple hours to dry then do a primer coat on the case side of the gasket, let that dry and then a final thin coat on the mount side. Install and torque to spec. I don't anticipate any problems at all from it. Should be an outstanding seal. Thank you Ray. Exactly the kind of gasket seal I was looking for. New technique that I have learned. Will probably reuse the phenolic gaskets for the manifold too this way. The really good red ones are hard to find these days.


Yes! The phenolic spacers this works really well on. Especially with a fuel proof product like Motoseal, Yamabond or even Indian head (which is the hardest to use but it works). Ray


Today I was on my old V-engine, V 020 947.
We all have overlooked, the bolts and nuts for early V up to 033 302 had been M6, so also the bores of gasket.
From V 033 303 and all later type 4 based engines, nuts and bolts, also gasket was M8.
The old filter mounts tended to crack and the bolts were too weak too. It´s possible to affix the newer filter mount onto early engines.

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalogues/Typ4/html5.html#/60
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 5:40 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
What the heck do the ribs do?

i believe the rib are to provide extra strength to prevent cracking,vw added ribs to the fan shroud,to prevent cracking around the coil mount bolt,and other places on the engines.i think they channel stresses out of the part through the ribs instead of allowing the stress to accumulate in one spot and cause a crack.
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 8:07 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Some items to think about:

SGKent said:

Quote:
The Victor Reinz seals sold now are .021" thick and have a built in coating. The older Reinzoiloid FS 53 seals sold in the years past are .014" to .017" thick but are cellulose. Neither style compress during use. I measured a new and used Victor Reinz seal and it is the same. The cellulose ones are pretty hard, I don't see them compressing.


Actually the cellulose gaskets DO compress. You just are not equipped to measure it. Its a small percentage. It is measured in microns.

But, there are MANY different formulations of cellulose gasket material. Cellulose is one of the BEST gasket materials.

Do not just think of it as "wood". Its not. No matter where it came from its reduced chemically, extruded as fiber, chopped to a narrow specification and then mulched with an adhesive (which can be anything from an RTV, Epoxy, teflon etc. etc.). Them they are vacuum evacuatedto fully impregnate the fibers and remove air and voids and then cast and rolled into sheet.

The cellulose fiber is pretty much inert to anything we can throw at it in a car. But it really does matter what adhesive or mastic is being used for what application.

And...the thickness means a lot on a cellulose gasket. The thicker they are the more they compress. That sound great/better...rght?

On some applications it might be expecially if its a large joint/sealing area and you have LOTS of compression capability. But on something like this joint....and especially if the gasket adheres to both surfaces....the thicker the gasket the more prone it will be to have the outer surfaces (which are different texture and porosity from the gasket material between the to outer surfaces)....to pull apart from the inner mass of the gasket material if the joint flexes.

For a joint like this you want the gasket material as thin as possible.

Quote:
The sealers mentioned are like most sealer suggestions - each person has gone with what they think best. A non-hardening sealer like Curil K2, Curil T, Permatex Aviation Gasket sealer, Copper Coat Spray, Gasacinch all squeeze out and can cause the gasket to blow out. A sealer like Indian Head Shellac dries harder but it is still a bit flexible and is suggested at a thickness of .010" each side. That is too much for what I visualize. I wanted something that just wets the gasket, dries hard and then bonds. The blue teflon type sealant used on Felpro gaskets is an example of something thin that bonds. So in about 1/2 an hour I will be forced to make a decision and live with it.


Indian head is high solids. It is nearly a real shellac. I think 0.010" is a bad suggestion. About 1/3 of that at the most would be far better. BUT....Indian dries SO FAST that using the roller or painting it on thin is very hard to do.

Something that dries....but has some residual tackiness to seal....are the Motoseal and Yamabond type sealants.

Also bear in mind with those adhesive/sealants.....what they create is akin to a "pressure sensitive" adhesive. The main quality that all pressure sensitive adhesives have is that they respond to pressure, time and temperature...in that order. They exhibit "creep" over time.

If you want to test the adhesion of one of these....you need to put it on thin and even (but it must be thick enough to penetrate the surface testure of both surfaces)....adn once you contact it under pressure....it takes TIME to transfer because it creeps slowly. Adding a little heat to get it to flow can speed things up.

If you look in the TDS of most RTV's and adhesives....they will tell you that they do not build complete adhesion and curing until X amount of time and in some cases that is 100 hours or more.

Last item.....I had found this site and some of these gasket materials a few years back...and probably saved to it somewhere in a thread in my cheat sheet list but lost track of it.

I came across it while chatting with someone else in a PM and remebered teh key words and found it.

This site has more high end gasket materials than any place I have ever found. The descriptions of each and where they work and what they work with are also excellent.

Keep in mind....there are many exotic gasket materials on this site. Metal filled, graphite filled, cellolose with every type of additive, PTFE filled etc. Do not get hung up in looking for smething exotic for something thatdoes not need exotic.

This is just from one search looking for fuel and oil resistant gasket materials.

https://www.gteek.com/For-oil-and-fuels

On this page....I direct you to pull up the material "Victor Reinz AFM-34"...and what they say bout it and the fact that it is available in 0.3mm sheets (0.0118"). There are some other fantastic sealing materials on this site as well.

Ray
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 11:39 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

the VR Reinzoloid with a layer of the fuel resistant RTV on it held without creeping. It shows no sign of it. I did notice that in the German printed version of the service manual, printed in English that we call the Orange manual, One of the pages that shows the engine blowup and lists oil capacities as well as torque values, differs from other pages and data.

1. The torque value is 18 ft lbs for the oil filter mount. The other page and Bentley show 14 ft lb, which I am more comfortable with. Fiat cam tower studs were M8 x 1.25 and they were 18 ft lbs. It was common to pull one right out of the aluminum at that torque after a few cycles of working on the heads.

2. The oil capacity is 3.5 quarts instead of 3.7 quarts. It is impossible to know if this is an error, meaning 3.5 liters, or if VW decided they were over filling at 3.7 quarts. The dipstick reads 1/2 to 3/4 quart high when 3.7 quarts is put in a dry engine with a new filter, and all the galleries / filter filled.

3. The photo that has both of the above also shows the gasket with the extra area that has been cut out. A few pages later the same basic photo shows the older gasket, and lower torque value.

We are dealing with their inability to fully document what they were doing.
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

wagen19 wrote:

Today I was on my old V-engine, V 020 947.
We all have overlooked, the bolts and nuts for early V up to 033 302 had been M6, so also the bores of gasket.
From V 033 303 and all later type 4 based engines, nuts and bolts, also gasket was M8.
The old filter mounts tended to crack and the bolts were too weak too. It´s possible to affix the newer filter mount onto early engines.

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalogues/Typ4/html5.html#/60


My parts book is August 1972, and lists the later 021115353A so the change would have been made on or prior to the beginning of the 1973 model year. No other clues on the dates for the V 0 033 303 engine production.
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2025 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
wagen19 wrote:

Today I was on my old V-engine, V 020 947.
We all have overlooked, the bolts and nuts for early V up to 033 302 had been M6, so also the bores of gasket.
From V 033 303 and all later type 4 based engines, nuts and bolts, also gasket was M8.
The old filter mounts tended to crack and the bolts were too weak too. It´s possible to affix the newer filter mount onto early engines.

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalogues/Typ4/html5.html#/60


My parts book is August 1972, and lists the later 021115353A so the change would have been made on or prior to the beginning of the 1973 model year. No other clues on the dates for the V 0 033 303 engine production.



Yes, my VW 411/412 parts book shows exactly what wagen19 is saying. Its for the early 411 cars only. Those were the only ones that got the "V" series engine case. Those would have to have been from 1968 to probably 1969.

SGKent said:

Quote:
the VR Reinzoloid with a layer of the fuel resistant RTV on it held without creeping.


Actually it is "creeping"...its just not something you can easily see or measure unless the gaket is very thick. They all have a "percentage" of creep n thickness.

If that percentage is say 2%....then a gasket that starts out at say...0.012" thick (304.8 microns)....will only compress 6.096 microns or 0.00024". But if you have a thick gaket of the same material....say 1/16th" or 1587.5 microns, the thick gasket will compress 31.75 microns or 0.0012".

A compression or creep rate of only 2% is really pretty low. I just used that number for an example.

The risk of gasket compression rate vs compression percentage is that as the gasket compresses and/or compresses into any texture on the two surfaces its sealing between....you have the issue of that releasing the tension/compression that the nuts or bolts are providing. The nuts will get loose.

So, a suggestion. I understand you are trying to make a long term seal.
What you should do after you have put the gasket and sealer on and after it has dried....re-torque the nuts to take up any gasket compression or creep that there has been.

SGKent said:

Quote:
We are dealing with their inability to fully document what they were doing.


Very Happy Laughing Cool
DING-DING-DING! and we have a winner!

Welcome to my world! I have been ranting about this for a very long time and confusing people in the bay window and 914 forums for years!

Its not THEIR inability to fully document what they were doing....per-se.

Bentley is NOT VW. That is and ongoing problem.

The root of the problem is that these engines...type 4....were never developed to be a bus engine. They started out in one version for the 411 cars. There were even a few hundred MAGNESIUM cases built in the V-series. Many things changed within just a couple of years of the first types. Then the 914 got the engine. More changes.

Then the bus got the engine....many more changes. Then the 912 got it for one year only in 1976...more changes.

Back to the 411 and 412. there are a huge number of parts variants for the engine through the years that were specific market only....they would only be seen in Europe.

We as the 411/412 group are STILL sorting through variations...not all of which appear in any one parts list....and...there was never a Bentley for 411/412.

I think the problem that Bentley has with documenting what minute changes there may or may not have been to the type 4 engine system...depends on who individually they are speaking to within VW as they research for their manual.

There were a lot of changes in the type 4 engine before it ever got t the bus....but many of them only lasted a year or so. Some of the early changes were poorly documented.

Ray
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2025 1:13 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Ray - There is a Dealer German Service Manual printed in English for the transporters. We call it the Orange book. It was printed for the dealers on European sized paper, and has supplements that were sent to the dealers for it as engines and features changed. The publisher is Volkswagenwerk Aktiengesellschaft, 1976. The Bentley manual is an American copy of that book but it is laid out just a tad bit different. The photos and much of the wording is the same other than the technical specs in the German factory book are thru out the pages where as Bentley tended to put it at the end. The copies of the Orange Book and rarer 2nd edition are ones that used book dealers bought from VW dealers when they wanted to get rid of excess copies of service manuals. The ones for earlier microbuses were hard bound in binders. These are paper bound, and often have some form of protective cover on them. Below is a photo of the rare second edition, they are a couple hundred dollars when one can find them. This photo is for one that is listed for sale in Australia on Ebay.

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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2025 12:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Ray - There is a Dealer German Service Manual printed in English for the transporters. We call it the Orange book. It was printed for the dealers on European sized paper, and has supplements that were sent to the dealers for it as engines and features changed. The publisher is Volkswagenwerk Aktiengesellschaft, 1976. The Bentley manual is an American copy of that book but it is laid out just a tad bit different. The photos and much of the wording is the same other than the technical specs in the German factory book are thru out the pages where as Bentley tended to put it at the end. The copies of the Orange Book and rarer 2nd edition are ones that used book dealers bought from VW dealers when they wanted to get rid of excess copies of service manuals. The ones for earlier microbuses were hard bound in binders. These are paper bound, and often have some form of protective cover on them. Below is a photo of the rare second edition, they are a couple hundred dollars when one can find them. This photo is for one that is listed for sale in Australia on Ebay.

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Yes...I am aware of all of them. I probably did not explain what I was saying well enough in my last post.

First, things were changing so fast with type 4 that I can guarantee that the "change/upgrade" documents for every lat little item did not all make it to Bentley before Bentley actually published their books.

There were mid-stream changes VW made to parts that never really got documented. They may have been in some dealer Technical bulletin but they never got out in books. Add to that, obscure changes to product made for other markets that may not even be captured by M-code.
Add to that, assembly of entire vehicles in other places.

Add to that.....and this part is critical...VW's habit of using parts in the bin left over from one model year in another......and Bentley and the VW shop manuals habit of not putting in any previous historical references to the provinance of the engine in a given model...............and you can run across parts and pieces in type 4 that leave you scratching your head Wink

And....they are STILL doing this!

So for example, my daily driver I have had for 13 years and bought brand new is a 2012 Golf Mk6, five cylinder, five speed two door. Sounds kind of run of the mill right? Should be no big deal!

Except, I can go months without seeing another two door. Ok.
And....its rare to actually see a five speed in a two door when I do see one.
And, it was also just about the last year into mid 2013 that these were actually assembled in Germany instead of Mexico.

So, there has been a constant slew of parts on this car that none of the usual aftermarket suspects ( FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, Autohausaz) can figure out...AND...the dealer cannot figure out.

Like, why does your engine have an extra pulley up there? Why does your car use a different belt?....why does your car have this part or that part? Laughing

I finally had to go meet the parts department manager (she is a hot looking blond)....she took my Vin and ran a search through VW. Turns out certain vw cars that were not really built with the North American market in mind that were still assembled in Germany....had some different parts...because that is how they assembled them in that location.

Now that dealer has my name and vin # on the wall in their parts department with a note. It tells them to look elsewhere in their computer for certain parts.

VW has always suffered from this lexel of model complexity. Ray
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 12:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

makes sense.

They aren't the only one. I had to repair three or four Lenovo (formerly IBM) laptops about 10 years ago. State bought about 100 of them. Same PO, same specs, same model number, same shipment, same master crates when unboxed. I'd call and give their support the model and serial, then tell them the defective part and the troubleshooting steps, or sometimes just my name, they'd look me up and say what do you need. Anyway, then they would want a whole slew of other numbers off the laptop to figure out who the sub-suppliers were that provided parts on that one laptop. Then they could send the part that fit it. Subtle differences in internal connectors, voltages etc.. Yet on the outside everyone of them looked identical. I just hate the way things are built that way today. It makes it very hard to repair things once they are a few years old. Then one adds to it the software servicing equipment that constantly changes to where if you take a 10 year old car in to the dealer, they will spend half the day looking for the correct harness to plug it into their system, and another couple hours researching the correct version of software to load onto it. I have read that the John Deere machine owners have it even worse when they have software errors. We see some podcasts occasionally where someone has a hybrid battery error and the dealer wants $25,000 to replace a whole slew of electronic parts, all that need factory programming for that VIN. Then some shop with a software guru figures out how to do it for $2500 using some part from Digikey, a soldering kit, and a programming kit. Depotting, repair and repotting has become an industry to itself on 10 - 15 year old car electronics. At least with a gasket I can make one with an exacto knife and some gasket material.
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Rolling Eyes Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand). Rolling Eyes

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Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
makes sense.

They aren't the only one. I had to repair three or four Lenovo (formerly IBM) laptops about 10 years ago. State bought about 100 of them. Same PO, same specs, same model number, same shipment, same master crates when unboxed. I'd call and give their support the model and serial, then tell them the defective part and the troubleshooting steps, or sometimes just my name, they'd look me up and say what do you need. Anyway, then they would want a whole slew of other numbers off the laptop to figure out who the sub-suppliers were that provided parts on that one laptop. Then they could send the part that fit it. Subtle differences in internal connectors, voltages etc.. Yet on the outside everyone of them looked identical. I just hate the way things are built that way today. It makes it very hard to repair things once they are a few years old. Then one adds to it the software servicing equipment that constantly changes to where if you take a 10 year old car in to the dealer, they will spend half the day looking for the correct harness to plug it into their system, and another couple hours researching the correct version of software to load onto it. I have read that the John Deere machine owners have it even worse when they have software errors. We see some podcasts occasionally where someone has a hybrid battery error and the dealer wants $25,000 to replace a whole slew of electronic parts, all that need factory programming for that VIN. Then some shop with a software guru figures out how to do it for $2500 using some part from Digikey, a soldering kit, and a programming kit. Depotting, repair and repotting has become an industry to itself on 10 - 15 year old car electronics. At least with a gasket I can make one with an exacto knife and some gasket material.



But there is "some" method to vws madness.....we just do not know what it is. But, one thing ai forgot about. VW back and the day and obviously still now.....adds certain parts ....not for country of origin, but more specifically for geographical location or DELIVERY.

I am about to have to replace the catalyst and down pipe as one unit as mine on my Golf has finally cracked at the manifold flange. I "could" weld it.....or I could buy a non factory level catalyst assembly and downpipe for about $450 and bolt it right in. Yes, I will probably never get the 200-300k miles my still functioning catalyst got.....but its also not $1700. And at 325k miles.....how good of a catalyst do I really need?

Anyway the gist is.....to add to the odd mix.....last year of golf built in Germany. Rare configuration for US market.....and with a catalyst and engine software set up for California....meaning it has three 02 sensors.

I am like WTF? Well....come to find out the California spec also applies to the "Northeast". This car came off the boat in Baltimore destined for the Northeast market. I picked it up in Northern Virginia (DC).

Vw used to do this with items like advance units etc on air cooled engines back in the day. If it were ordered by a specific dealer whose locality required something more.....little bits and pieces showed up different. Ray
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 5:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

hopefully Trump will sign the CRA that forces 50 state compliance, and the monster CARB will end its attack on humans.
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Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
hopefully Trump will sign the CRA that forces 50 state compliance, and the monster CARB will end its attack on humans.


Yes what we need is 1965 era orange skies over west coast cities again with people suffering from all kinds of respiratory aliments that most of today's residents don't even know can happen to kids or to grown ups in their in the early and middle adult hood, along with salmon smolts floating bellie up as they head to sea.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Filter Mount Gasket 021-115-359A Reply with quote

Mike - the current technology in 49 state cars takes care of that. California cars now aren't any cleaner than the other state cars. In fact, because they cost more, and parts are more expensive, people have less money to maintain them. Most of the used and off lease cars sold here anyway come from out of state. Not to be rude, but you are off base about this issue. We are at a point where the pollutants in the dust blowing off of dry lakebeds left by all the pools and golf courses in LA is more unhealthy than all the modern cars driving around here. The forest fires that grow in size yearly as the environmentalists want to see nature take its course have put out more pollutants and CO2 out than all the efforts the US has taken to reduce emissions over the last 25 or so years. When we have fires now, they burn for months, and the sky is like Mordor. Look what happened during the wet season this year. They didn't even bother to maintain the fire hydrants or keep water in the reservoirs that supplied them. CARB sat around and let it happen. To many of us, we see them as a money generating machine for specific donors at this point. Kudos for doing their job in years past, but it was done 20 years ago.
_________________
Rolling Eyes Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand). Rolling Eyes

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes
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