What's worse? Engine work or body work?

[CoastalBug]

Hello all, I just registered. First post.

Currently looking at getting my first bug. I've got a cash budget of $3K. I'm optimally looking for a daily driver project car and just to get around our small town. I've located two possibilities at this time.

Car 1 1968 regular beetle

PROS - running, minimal body rust (mostly surface). Car had a small engine fire from busted original filter and fuel line. Engine repaired and runs great. New parts installed to include wiring harness from firewall back, carb, fuel filter and lines, alternator and belt, distributor/rotor/cap/plugs/wires, engine shroud and seals, brake soft lines drums shoes and master cyl, front end rebuild, fuel filler neck, battery, new starter, and assorted body seals. Car has a clear title.

CONS - Located 5 hours away and will need to be towed, needs brake work to be road worthy, will need light body work and paint.


Car 2 1972 regular beetle

PROS - new rebuilt 1600 engine installed in january 2024 (less than 100 miles), has factory console and lines installed for DPD air conditioning (incomplete though), new gas tank, passed stated inspection last year, located an hour away.

CONS - car has no title, body has more dings and dents and has sever rust near fenders from failed seals, no back seat, no heater boxes, rear engine tin, needs brake work.


I'm leaning toward the '68 the hardest, mostly because the body is in better condition, and it has a title. I realize that without knowing all of my circumstances it will be hard to give me advice, I'm just kind of looking for general thoughts or things to ponder.

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

I learned early on with my 65 Stang Body work/rust repair is a nightmare. A good body is most important.
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Key is to have downward travel Preload keep both wheels on the ground at all times once you lift a tire your DONE. Guys worry about clearance instead think of the opposite you want the suspension to drop that tire in the hole and keep you going. A spider for example they keep their body low but their legs can reach pretty far so they don't (bottom out)

[CoastalBug]

[OldSchoolVW's]

No title is a deal killer for me no matter how good the car looks or how good the price is. Got burned once buying a motorcycle with paperwork issues. It took over six months to finally get a clear title ... and you don't want to invest much time and any money until you have the necessary documents to make it yours.

Aside from that, it depends what skills and equipment you possess. Generally you'll be able to get on the road sooner with a mechanical project than with a body project ... and driving the car is the fun part of ownership.

You say your cash budget is $3K ... is that for the purchase or to make the purchase and get it roadworthy? These cars can be a money pit. Generally speaking, you'll pay more for a car that needs little or no work, but not nearly as much as you'll end up spending to get most fixers up to comparable condition.

How long have you been looking? It took me almost a year and a half to find my '69, and I'm in Southern California where the rest of the world seems to think they're still a dime a dozen. Mighty glad I was patient.
_________________
Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"It's okay to think."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[bsairhead]

To do yourself, body work is not for the faint at heart. I would at least double your budget and find the driest car you can.

[Bobs67vwagen]

I agree the 68 sounds like the better candidate based upon the title issues and the rust you described. You may want to narrow down if you would prefer a swing axle car (the 6 or a later independent rear suspension car (the 72). 68 in the US was the last year for the swing axle. Do a little more research on the differences to understand that a little better before you buy. Good luck Bob

[bugger-off]

I'd walk away from the '68. Five hours away and needs brakes. Nope, too much uncertainty and such a hassle, definitely not worth it.

Anyone who wants more than a few hundred bucks for a vehicle with NO TITLE is crazy. "Oh, but I promise it's not stolen." Who cares. RUN away from this one. Getting a title isn't just going to titles.com and getting one. In my state it is a royal PIA.

Don't rush into a bug just because you're sick of looking/waiting. I am sure you'll need to spend more than $3k to get something decent. Take your time.

IMO, look for a '69 or newer. IRS rules.

[Glenn]

I rather have a vw with rust free body and no engine/transaxle than a rusty one with a "chromed out" engine.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Schepp]

I agree with everyone else. No paperwork. No deal. End of story. A body in better condition is the way to go. Starting with good bones is key to a build. You'd be a fool to dump $$$ into an engine before dealing with severe rust or body damage. Since bugs don't have a traditional frame rust is our killer.

Good bugs are getting a lot harder to find. $3k in CA isn't going to get you one.
They're not as cheap as they used to be. For $3k expect to put at least another $3K+ into making it a DD worthy car.

Also don't be fooled by new paint jobs and/or new carpet kits.

I recommend posting the cars your are interested in on here for us to help determine if its worth it or not.

If a seller isn't cool with you putting the car on jack stands or taking out the back seat for inspection. Walk away.

[rg65]

Go with the 68. I have also done the no title route and it is a pain in the ass. Will not do that again.

[CoastalBug]

Here are more photos from the listing. The rust on the drivers side rear was from a small engine fire. It’s surface rust only. The only other place of concern is a silver dollar sized hole in the battery compartment.

[CoastalBug]

And here are some videos he sent me.


Link



Link
[/youtube]

[Cusser]

Engine work is usually easier and cheaper than body work.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Bobs67vwagen]

Just for your general knowledge here are some changes that have been made to that 68 bug
1) the steering wheel is from a later bug probably 72 or newer
2) the decklid is from a later bug, 68 had no vents on the lid
3) the air cleaner looks different to me
I am pointing this out to you in case you are looking for a stock original car. The body looks good from the outside. Prepping, priming, and painting should be done to the fire damage soon. That stuff will rust deeply quickly. I would want to know about the condition of the heater channels and floor pan, and the support panel below and behind the front suspension beam. These are all common rust areas on these cars. Hope this helps Bob

[CoastalBug]

[diamondblue1969]

Looks really solid and complete, except the missing bumpers !

[Bobs67vwagen]

The pan looks pretty good as does the underside of the heater channels. Heater channels are hard to ascertain without being at the car and going inside and tapping the channels from front to rear. They are covered in carpet so you can not really see any hidden rust. If the owner is willing ask to photo the area behind and below the front suspension beam. Another common rust area is the package shelf behind the rear seat. This also is hard to examine as it's covered in carpet. It looks to be a pretty solid car. Hope this helps.

[OldSchoolVW's]

[CoastalBug]

[OldSchoolVW's]