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lobsterguy Samba Member

Joined: December 06, 2022 Posts: 39 Location: ME
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Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2025 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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I am in a similar position of the poor OP on this thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
My new rod bearings came in from GoWesty and I am going to attempt to replace them this afternoon. Could anyone point me toward a good step by step for that? I have looked all over the internet and Bentley but haven't found anything definitive about getting to the bearings themselves. Is this a job that requires dropping the engine? Am I just removing the head?
Jasper _________________ 2.1L 1987 Manual Westy |
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AndyBees Samba Member

Joined: January 31, 2008 Posts: 2638 Location: Southeast Kentucky
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Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2025 12:59 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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@lobsterguy
Replacing the rod bearings is not going to be an afternoon job.
The cost of the necessary gasket kits (one for each side of the engine) will be a lot more expense than what you paid for the rod bearings.
-Drain coolant
-Drain the oil
-Remove Fuel Injection wiring
-Remove Fuel Injection hoses/pipes
-Remove Intake and associated bits
-Remove associated accessories, such as alternator, etc.
-Remove plug wires
-Remove valve covers
-Remove Rockers
-Pull push rods
-Remove Exhaust system
-Remove anything bolted to the heads, including hoses
-Remove the heads
From there, sliding off the water jackets/cylinders is something I've never done on a WBXer engine. As I understand, it is not an easy endeavor, especially if you want to keep the pistons in the cylinders to maintain their relationship.
If I were doing this job, I'd remove the engine and go to the bottom (split the case), especially, if I was seeing bits in the oil per the thread you linked.
Others will chime-in. _________________ '84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI, two trips to Alaska, 2014 & 16. 1989 Tin-top unmolested.
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful. |
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lobsterguy Samba Member

Joined: December 06, 2022 Posts: 39 Location: ME
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Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2025 1:33 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Thanks for the note Andy. I figured it would take longer than an afternoon anyways. I have a remarkable ability to make jobs last 10x what they should. My mom says its a talent. I'll get cracking on it and might be back here with questions along the way. Pulling the engine seems like the more through job, but worth it. I appreciate the advice.
Jasper _________________ 2.1L 1987 Manual Westy |
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shadetreemech Samba Member

Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 814 Location: Claremont, CA
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.
The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me. _________________ '84 GL 1.9
'01 Volvo V70 T5
'88 Westy - "MZDRTHY" |
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Red Ryder Samba Member

Joined: June 26, 2021 Posts: 1187 Location: PNW — Washington
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 10:46 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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shadetreemech wrote: |
So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.
The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me. |
I would not ignore this. Should the cat’s medium shift around it could lead to significant clogging and a host of unwanted problems. I understand the cost of a new CA cat is staggering, but… _________________ “Most everyone’s mad here. You may have noticed I am not quite all there myself.” — Cheshire Cat, Adventures of Alice in Wonderland
“Scarlett” — 1990 Vanagon Carat Wolfsburg Edition (Tornado Red)
“Nigel” — 1999 Jaguar XK8 convertible (Alpine Green Metallic) |
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BCE56 Samba Member

Joined: July 16, 2013 Posts: 391 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 11:32 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Red Ryder wrote: |
shadetreemech wrote: |
So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.
The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me. |
I would not ignore this. Should the cat’s medium shift around it could lead to significant clogging and a host of unwanted problems. I understand the cost of a new CA cat is staggering, but… |
Check the O2 sensor(s) to rule out possible root cause of cat failure.
...Ask me how I know. _________________ =BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52379
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2025 4:26 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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AndyBees wrote: |
From there, sliding off the water jackets/cylinders is something I've never done on a WBXer engine. As I understand, it is not an easy endeavor, especially if you want to keep the pistons in the cylinders to maintain their relationship. |
A guy named Pete (can't remember his Samba handle) had a really good write up on his site on removing the heads. Someone else will likely remember his Samba name which would make the search easier. Hopefully the information he had on his site is still out there and searchable, maybe it's here on The Samba somewhere. |
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latelogan Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2023 Posts: 65 Location: Parksville british columbia canada
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Rm182 fridge on 12VDC.
I upgraded my house power system, and the fridge now works as good as it gets in all three modes.
on 12VDC it got to 30F overnight from my full 100AH lipo. (load was 4.9 amps) IIR the 12VDC runs flat out with no control.
I am wondering if anyone has put a thermostat control on the 12VDC to limit try and control the temp with it?
I am thinking of modifying the 120 VAC thermostatic control with a relay to switch both 12 and 120 at the same time.
it could be a fools errand, but I'm wondering if its possible run it off of solar and cycle the 12VDC rather than flat out (target 1/3 less power consumption cycling at 40F) _________________ 1991 Westy stock 2.1 auto transmission
1978 Westy (Sold)
1971 Westy (Sold) |
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fxr Samba Member

Joined: December 07, 2014 Posts: 2650 Location: Bay area CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:55 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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You could add an Inkbird or equivalent temperature controller. Use two separate relays for the 12V and 120V though.
e.g. there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Thermostat-Controller-DROK-Temperature/dp/B07GQPT9VG?th=1
Use its relay for the 12V and also to control a relay with 120V capable contacts. _________________ Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300 |
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ProbablyNotIan Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2024 Posts: 53 Location: Idaho Falls, ID
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:58 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Looking to add an auxiliary fuse box to my van. I have a couple of accessories that I would like to be able to run off the battery and I want everything to be guarded. I do eventually plan on adding a house battery/solar/all that jazz, but right now I just need a couple of auxiliary 12v circuits.
What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block?
The current plan is that this will live under the drivers seat, so I'll need to be able to go from the starter battery to this block. |
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VicVan Samba Member

Joined: July 01, 2015 Posts: 1936 Location: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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ProbablyNotIan wrote: |
What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block? |
It depends on two factors: the length of the wire, and the total current pulled.
List all the elements hooked up to your aux panel, including future ones, sum their respective amps, that will be your total current. Tell us what these numbers are, and we'll help you further![/quote]
Example:
USB Outlet 4 A
Fan 2.5A
(Future) Propex Heater 2A
Fridge 7 A
TOTAL 4 + 2.5 + 2 + 7 = 15.5 Amps _________________ '90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH) |
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Crooked Designer Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2018 Posts: 584 Location: Chicago, IL
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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2025 8:01 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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ProbablyNotIan wrote: |
Looking to add an auxiliary fuse box to my van. I have a couple of accessories that I would like to be able to run off the battery and I want everything to be guarded. I do eventually plan on adding a house battery/solar/all that jazz, but right now I just need a couple of auxiliary 12v circuits.
What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block?
The current plan is that this will live under the drivers seat, so I'll need to be able to go from the starter battery to this block. |
I have used this chart many many times.
In general Blue Sea is a great resource for 12v electric. _________________ '85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit |
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Chris-a Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2005 Posts: 150 Location: PNW
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 9:27 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.
I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.
Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….
Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already. _________________ ----------------------------
I gotta have nice tools, just look at the cars I drive.
Current: 87 Syncro AHU Tdi Westy'ish?
Previous: 77 Westy, 72 Tin Top Camper, 69 Passenger |
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snuf Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2008 Posts: 260 Location: TN
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 12:41 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Chris-a wrote: |
Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.
I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.
Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….
Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already. |
An Inflatable Seat Cushion Lightweight with Memory Foam might be another option to gain that 1" or so. Less work and firmness can be adjusted
https://www.atepaoutdoors.com/products/atepa-infla...on2=1-pack
10% discount with "WELCOME" & shipping.
Or more color choices at:
https://www.amazon.com/ATEPA-Inflatable-Lightweigh...5&th=1
I use one for long drives so my backside does not get sore. _________________ 1986 Wolfsberg Limited Edition Vanagon.
AKA: Poptop with rear corner cabinet, fold down side table, rear-facing jump seat and a 12v fridge/cooler. |
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Crooked Designer Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2018 Posts: 584 Location: Chicago, IL
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 1:38 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Chris-a wrote: |
Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.
I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.
Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….
Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already. |
You could do the recarro adaptors. Bolt the top to the bottom of your seat and then bolt the bottom half to your VW rails. Wouldn't really be adapting anything, but would give you teh 1" in height and a much better mechanism for moving the seat forward. _________________ '85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit |
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maco70 Samba Member

Joined: March 16, 2011 Posts: 495 Location: Montréal, Québec
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2025 6:53 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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Hi to all,
If I run the engine, let’s say for 200 km, with a lifter unaligned with the pushrod, can I damage the engine, or it will be simply noisy.
I am not sure at all that I have an unaligned pushrod, but certainly I still have a noisy lifter and I plan to give it a ride on the highway to Quebec city to try to get it charge with oil.
Best Regards,
Martin _________________ Martin from Montréal
1986 Vanagon GL full camper westfalia
(brown/tan interior) |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52379
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2025 7:23 pm Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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maco70 wrote: |
Hi to all,
If I run the engine, let’s say for 200 km, with a lifter unaligned with the pushrod, can I damage the engine, or it will be simply noisy.
I am not sure at all that I have an unaligned pushrod, but certainly I still have a noisy lifter and I plan to give it a ride on the highway to Quebec city to try to get it charge with oil.
Best Regards,
Martin |
You should have very close to the same amount of thread sticking out through the lock nut on each adjusting screw. If there is a lot of variance then the valve adjustment technique likely needs some work. There are ways that one can encourage a soft lifter to pump up. |
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4Gears4Tires Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018 Posts: 4224 Location: MD
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 7:25 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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If my radiator has 17 inside 2 circles stamped near the bleed bolt, that means it's production date is 2017, right? _________________ '87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
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4Gears4Tires Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018 Posts: 4224 Location: MD
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2025 5:54 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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If someone (dunno who) goes to the propane fill station and they try to fill the propane tank of their Westy and it takes no propane but the tank gets super cold and starts dripping condensation, is the tank already filled? _________________ '87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
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coloradolife Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2016 Posts: 62 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2025 7:03 am Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread |
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4Gears4Tires wrote: |
If someone (dunno who) goes to the propane fill station and they try to fill the propane tank of their Westy and it takes no propane but the tank gets super cold and starts dripping condensation, is the tank already filled? |
Sounds likely. DId you turn on the stove and see if you have gas coming out? They also make tank level indicators that you just hold against the tank. |
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