2.0 CU Heater Cable Servo replacement

[DerLudwig]

I have an air-cooled Vanagon and the heater cable was melted during some welding job by a former owner. I don't really like the cables because the never really work well in my opinion. So, I was trying to install some 12V servo's and some circuitry to control the heater cable. But before I invent the wheel again, has anyone tried this?

[jlrftype7]

Can't help with your exact needs, but from what I've seen of electrically controlled exhaust flaps on modern vehicles for noise control out of the exhaust, most of these devices are short lived due to exhaust corrosive gases getting into them.
Granted, you hope NOT to have any exhaust gas getting into your heater system since it's just supposed to be air heated by the exhaust via heat exchangers by design....
So it's not a totally fair comparison in terms of application.
But, you'll still have heat, lots of it with a properly working and sealed system.
That heat could still attack the components if its mounted close enough to the heater flaps on the exchangers.

Fresh Cables seem simpler as a path to go if you can still get them, or have them made to order rather than wiring, controllers, servos as a conversion.
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[dobryan]

The servos would need to be able to withstand heat, moisture, salt?....

Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

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[MarkWard]

I don’t see why you couldn’t use elec or vacuum servos to operate heat exchanger flaps. VW likely used cables because they always had, simple, and reliable. Getting the servos to work will be a challenge to figure out. Looking forward to what you come up with.

[DerLudwig]

The idea is to put them on top of the rear uhm fork (if that is the correct name). So where the cable is attached in the end normally. Those parts don't get to hot. Water shouldn't be a problem, there are waterproof servo's available. Salt could indeed be a thing.

Thanks for the suggestions, highly appreciated!

[MarkWard]

While likely nobody used the heater as designed, you regulated heat temp by how much the flap moved. That would be difficult to accomplish with an on off type servo. That said, heater’s aren’t the best and having them full open probably would be fine when you needed heat.

[DerLudwig]

I was thinking about something like this. I have to read into the specs and reviews but I could be on to something

https://www.vevor.nl/lineaire-actuatoren-c_11633/v...kMQAvD_BwE[/url]

[?Waldo?]

When all is correct, the air-cooled Vanagon heater puts out a LOT of heat. What I found to be the most irritating aspect of the air-cooled heater is that the fan driving the hot air is bolted to the alternator (engine rpm dependent), so you roast when cruising and freeze when stopped.

[DerLudwig]

That's the same fan that cools the engine right? Forced air cooling I believe it is called (Translated from Dutch). The heating system works fine on beetles, I had a few. They are smaller and shorter. Not sure how it works on the Vanagons yet, since I don't have it working. There is an air cooled heater version with an extra fan in the front. But mine also only has the cooler fan from the engine

[jlrftype7]

[DerLudwig]

Ah thanks for the clarification. i just got my vanagon this spring so am still learning.

[DerLudwig]

With a bit of luck I get the actuators/servo's and controller in the mail tomorrow

[DerLudwig]

Oops, I ordered the AC controller. That will not work since it needs AC input. Ordered the DC version last week and waiting again.

I also got the DC servo's and they look promising. Small and pretty good power.

Update later

Sunglasses for size (out of bananas)