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xFontix039
Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2025
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec, Canada
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 Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:45 pm Post subject: Engine Break In Question |
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Hello Everyone,
Im new to engine break in and i recently rebuild a 1600cc with a engle w100 in it. Ive run the engine for 20 minutes at around 2500 - 3000 RPM and then flush the oil so the break in of the cam would not affect the first 100 miles.
Yesterday ive run my freshly rebuilt motor between 50 - 55 MPH for 3 hours since i had to do around 120 miles from the shop i rebuild it to my home and some people say you drive it like you stole it and some others said to not go over reving.
Ive do some alternance in throttle during the driving when i was coasting down i let off the gas so the ring and then giving it gently not to aggressive back to the 50 - 55 MPH.
My 2 questions are:
Do you guys think that the rings have set properly or do i need to run it again like others said on 3rd gear and go full throttle and let go?
At around what miles do you change the oil after the first 100 miles? Some said 500 others 1000 miles (Getting me confused  ) |
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Stinky123
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2022
Posts: 224
Location: Grand Junction, CO
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 8:34 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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Do you have an Oil Filter? What sort of cooler?
If it was a water-cooled engine, I'd say that it was pretty much broken in. At the very least, the critical time went away in the 1st 20 minutes.
If it was my water-cooled engine (which are a bit dif, to put it mildly), I'd say drive it normally....BUT, no max rpm, and no max throttle.
If it has a filter on it...I'd change the oil at 1,000 miles, 500 if not. I'd say that is probably quicker than what the factory originally said.
Last edited by Stinky123 on Sat Jun 21, 2025 8:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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xFontix039
Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2025
Posts: 6
Location: Quebec, Canada
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 8:37 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| Stinky123 wrote: |
Do you have an Oil Filter?
If it was a water-cooled engine, I'd say that it was pretty much broken in. At the very least, the critical time went away in the 1st 20 minutes.
If it was my water-cooled engine (which are a bit dif, to put it mildly), I'd say drive it normally....BUT, no max rpm, and no max throttle.
If it has a filter on it...I'd change the oil at 1,000 miles, 500 if not. I'd say that is probably quicker than what the factory originally said. |
Its a Aircooled Type 1 and have the stock filter that goes inside the case |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 42364
Location: at the beach
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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what we recommended was take it easy the first 1500 miles or so to give things a chance to wear in together. Once in a while floor it while you are driving down the road for 10 - 15 seconds. That will make sure the rings get full sweep once in awhile. I would tell you it did not matter, but these days the tolerances and qualities of parts are not as consistent as 40 years ago, so you don't want to trust them like you might have 40 - 50 years ago.
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94touring
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2020
Posts: 474
Location: Tulsa - OK
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 10:29 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| After a fresh build (or new barrels and rings) I immediately go full throttle up a steep hill by my shop, turn around, build up speed, and engine break down the hill. I repeat this a few times then go change the oil. Then change again at 500 miles. |
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bedlamite
Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004
Posts: 233
Location: WI
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 6:31 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| xFontix039 wrote: |
Its a Aircooled Type 1 and have the stock filter that goes inside the case |
That's the oil strainer, you don't have a filter.
Avoid running it at a constant rpm and load, keep it varying, and use engine breaking once in a while. |
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Brian_e
Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009
Posts: 3940
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 7:24 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| what we recommended was take it easy the first 1500 miles or so to give things a chance to wear in together.. |
Who is WE???? You got a mouse in your pocket???
Taking it easy for the first 1500 miles will only glaze up the cylinders, and keep the rings from correctly seating. Get the cam broke in on the stand, get the thing in the car, and get after it with minimal idling time. Hit the closest hill, and run the thing hard and quick.
It always concerns me when someone says their new engine needs to “wear in”. 
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https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts |
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jpaull
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005
Posts: 3639
Location: Paradise, Ca
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 8:02 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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Its too late now. The first 20-30 miles are the most important ever. If you didnt Haul-Ass through the gears for the first miles the most valuable seating ability is gone. What you do wont matter now.
My first 20 miles on a newly built engine was a 1/4 mile at a time, the only break was coming back on the return road to get the timeslip.
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67rustavenger
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015
Posts: 10938
Location: Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 8:09 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| jpaull wrote: |
Its too late now. The first 20-30 miles are the most important ever. If you didnt Haul-Ass through the gears for the first miles the most valuable seating ability is gone. What you do wont matter now.
My first 20 miles on a newly built engine was a 1/4 mile at a time, the only break was coming back on the return road to get the timeslip. |
 Same here!
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
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2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!  |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 42364
Location: at the beach
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 11:01 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| Brian_e wrote: |
| SGKent wrote: |
| what we recommended was take it easy the first 1500 miles or so to give things a chance to wear in together.. |
Who is WE???? You got a mouse in your pocket???
Taking it easy for the first 1500 miles will only glaze up the cylinders, and keep the rings from correctly seating. Get the cam broke in on the stand, get the thing in the car, and get after it with minimal idling time. Hit the closest hill, and run the thing hard and quick.
It always concerns me when someone says their new engine needs to “wear in”. |
we are the people who re-machined, blue printed and built engines for a living for many years. My specialty was rods, line bores, and cylinders for everything from the kid with a worn out engine in a car his parents gave him, to winning NHRA, F1, NASCAR, SCORE, and SCCA engines etc.. Never had a set of rings that did not bed in when the cylinders are properly prepped for the type rings being used. Race car engines do not need to live for 100,000 miles, nor do they get 1500 miles to break the engine in. Totally different animal between a track car and one that is going to be driven around town.
That said, I think what you are referring to is what I suggested not doing. That is a low load all the time. That is why I wrote that the engine should be floored every so often. When there is a constant load - whether it is full throttle or low load, the rings end up sitting in one position as they move. They will wear in that posititon and so will the cylinder. But that is like a constant polishing and it can glaze the cylinder and make for a future damaged ring. When the engine load is changed from light load to full load, it not only changes the position of the rings - allowing oil to do its magic, but it flexes the rings. That makes for a wear pattern that changes the ring bedding in to more with what the engine will experience during the rest of its life. What we are looking to do is marry the two surfaces so they work well together under ALL load conditions, not just wide open throttle or low load. What we also do not want is excessive heat made during the process, which is why we don't to drive like we stole the car. The engine needs to run under a regular cycle of everything from low load to high load during the break in process but without creating lots of heat - which that cycle will last about 1500 miles regardless how we drive it. I would floor the engine once every couple minutes for 15 - 30 seconds, but not a sustained constant reving because I also want the bearings and cam etc., to continue bedding. Someone who drives like a bat out of hell for 500 miles then takes it easy is going to have the same issues essentially that someone who babies the engine for 500 miles then gets on it. The result being that the rings will not bed in as well as someone who varies the load. The varying load from 0% to 100% across the full spectrum without sustained stresses and heat is what gives the best bedding in.
There are also other design needs that rings and cylinder surfaces have, based on how they will be used. A short stroke high RPM engine needs different width lands and rings compared to a low speed daily driver. Bedding in rings is not a one size fits all situation, and that is why we are better off varying the load conditions during its first 1500 miles or so - those changes insure that the rings see a varying load, that allows oil to be pulled thru them at times. I would not suggest someone go 1500 miles at low loads or they will create problems down the road the first time they step on it at 1501 miles. Likewise someone who pushes the engine hard constantly for 1500 miles will have problems the excess friction and heat creates. Race car engines get rebuilt usually after a couple races. They aren't expected to last like a daily driver.
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DesertSasquatchXploration
Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2021
Posts: 960
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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Just broke in my new top end did the farm roads in Chino CA ran it hard kept it at 4.5K for a bit between gear changes. Everything went fine I did the same break-in approach with the old top end was going strong at 60K Till i wanted more CR Brian_e Is right 9CR is freaken sweet i love it!.
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Schepp
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2020
Posts: 432
Location: NorCal
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 6:31 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| I broke mine in the same, hard and fast. |
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Max Welton
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Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 11017
Location: Black Forest, CO
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clockworkbox
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2020
Posts: 471
Location: Williamsport, PA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 8:43 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| Max Welton wrote: |
What did the factory do when they were cranking these things out by the thousands?
Max |
They used genuine VW parts of much better quality than is typical today.
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Learning the hard way is still learning... |
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Brian_e
Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009
Posts: 3940
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 9:29 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| SGKent wrote: |
That said, I think what you are referring to is what I suggested not doing. That is a low load all the time. |
Not correct.
I have explained my process many times in the 238 other break-in threads.
I have a steep 2 mile hill behind my house. I hit the hill, and rip up it HARD. BIG load. All gears, high rpm. There is no light load, and there is no long length of time. When I get to the top, I whip around, and do another hard pull from a stop down the hill, and then let the engine compression brake on the way down. Almost zero load, varied RPM. I do a few more WOT blasts between compression braking. Lots of varied load, on and off, and pressure on both sides of the rings.
I do this run usually 3 times up and down the hill. Then go home, change the oil, do my final carb sync, mix screws, maybe some jet change, recheck timing etc. Next morning, I go do another pull on my way to work, and consider it broke-in and ready.
Leak-down tests following this break-in are always 2-4% after only 15 miles of driving.
Now that I have the dyno, I add a decent load during the cam break-in, and vary the RPM while its running, along with a few big revs. After the first 20min. I bring it to idle, do the carb sync, timing, jets changes, etc, then hit it right away with a few 3/4 peak rpm hard pulls.
The moral of the story is.....don't baby the thing. Low RPM for 1500 miles will just glaze up the cylinders. Drive it harder for the first 100miles than you plan to drive it regularly for the rest of it's life.
Use good parts, measure and prep everything right, assemble it correctly, use GOOD break-in oil, and then get the rings seated quick and hard, and it will be just fine.
Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok
www.type-emotorsports.com
Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts |
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Max Welton
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 11017
Location: Black Forest, CO
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clockworkbox
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2020
Posts: 471
Location: Williamsport, PA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 10:53 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| Max Welton wrote: |
| clockworkbox wrote: |
| Max Welton wrote: |
What did the factory do when they were cranking these things out by the thousands?
Max |
They used genuine VW parts of much better quality than is typical today. |
Don't we typically make up for that with far more attention to hand-work to make things fit?
Max |
Your question has been pondered before. Interesting topic.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755132&highlight=engine+break-in+when
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Max Welton
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Joined: May 19, 2003
Posts: 11017
Location: Black Forest, CO
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chrisflstf
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Joined: February 10, 2004
Posts: 4004
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 11:53 am Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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I think leakdown test and oil consumption are the only tests for checking on proper seating of rings.
I followed Brians method for cylinder prep ( ultra plateau finish hone, plus clean, clean, clean) along with quickseat, grant rings, ring gaps, mic`d the cylinder for roundness, taper and about 8 runs full throttle, up and down a 7% mile long grade
Leakdown numbers on my 1776 are: 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 4 %. Has not burned a drop of oil.
Cant beat that  |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 42364
Location: at the beach
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 4:14 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Break In Question |
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| Brian_e wrote: |
| SGKent wrote: |
That said, I think what you are referring to is what I suggested not doing. That is a low load all the time. |
Not correct.
I have explained my process many times in the 238 other break-in threads.
I have a steep 2 mile hill behind my house. I hit the hill, and rip up it HARD. BIG load. All gears, high rpm. There is no light load, and there is no long length of time. When I get to the top, I whip around, and do another hard pull from a stop down the hill, and then let the engine compression brake on the way down. Almost zero load, varied RPM. I do a few more WOT blasts between compression braking. Lots of varied load, on and off, and pressure on both sides of the rings.
I do this run usually 3 times up and down the hill. Then go home, change the oil, do my final carb sync, mix screws, maybe some jet change, recheck timing etc. Next morning, I go do another pull on my way to work, and consider it broke-in and ready.
Leak-down tests following this break-in are always 2-4% after only 15 miles of driving.
Now that I have the dyno, I add a decent load during the cam break-in, and vary the RPM while its running, along with a few big revs. After the first 20min. I bring it to idle, do the carb sync, timing, jets changes, etc, then hit it right away with a few 3/4 peak rpm hard pulls.
The moral of the story is.....don't baby the thing. Low RPM for 1500 miles will just glaze up the cylinders. Drive it harder for the first 100miles than you plan to drive it regularly for the rest of it's life.
Use good parts, measure and prep everything right, assemble it correctly, use GOOD break-in oil, and then get the rings seated quick and hard, and it will be just fine.
Brian |
I get it. You have a special hill others don't. Explain that hill to someone in Florida. Just tell people to vary the load from light load to full throttle load to coast consistently during the break in period so the engine gets to experience the full spectrum of loads it will be driven with the rest of its life. And don't damage the engine or blow it up by sustaining any one of those too often. I gave my opinion and it stands.
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