Throttle lever setting?

[CoastalBug]

I’ve searched and watched and googled but I can’t find much information on this part. I believe it’s called a throttle lever according to what I’ve been able to learn. IF this thing is closed at startup, my engine will flood. If it’s open it will start right up. What’s the proper adjustment and where should it be on startup, and running?

[liquidrush]

That's the fast idle cam. There should be a choke thermostat on the opposite side of it. Sounds like you need to adjust it. When adjusted properly it'll start up on fast idle and as the choke thermostat warms up the cam will drop down to normal idle speed.

[CoastalBug]

[rayjay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTSekv82ZMQ&t=66s

[CoastalBug]

[rayjay]

You are doing it correctly. You give the pedal a pat to allow the fast idle cam to set to the cold start position. This also gives a shot of gas out of the accelerator pump to help prime the cylinders. Then hit the key an the motor should fire right up and idle fast. Another pat on the throttle allows the choke pull-off diaphragm to pull the fast idle cam to a lower rpm setting.

For the summer time I would adjust the choke bimetal coil so that the choke butterfly has about 1/4'' of air gap. Adjust the fast idle to about 1200 rpm. This all takes some tinkering to find out what your combination needs to give you fast starts but not be prone to flooding. You also have to experiment with starting techniques.

I would also check the fuel level in the bowl to make sure it's in spec. It sounds like it may be a bit high which makes it easy to flood the engine.

Don't get exasperated. Nobody is born knowing this stuff. Step by step.

[CoastalBug]

[Alstrup]

The butterfly control screw looks to be in way too much
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[CoastalBug]

[rayjay]

[CoastalBug]

[jinx758]

Disconnect NEG of coil

Air cleaner off

Key on

Amount of time needed for choke to fully open -
3 to 5 minutes (3=summer & 5= winter)
Adjust accordingly

THEN set fast idle cam screw
unscrew the PO's "screw up"- off the cam
screw should JUST touch cam then 1/4 turn, no more
DO NOT TOUCH AGAIN

Fuel, air, & idle are done using the screws on left side of carburetor

Works for :
30PICT/3, 30PICT/4, 31PICT/3, 31PICT/4, & H30/31

Reader ? Samba search
Visual ? U-tube search
TONS of info out there !

Good luck ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[CoastalBug]

[Bobs67vwagen]

Coastal as a 68 US market car that probably originally had a solex 30 pict-2. If it was a California car it might have been different. That being said since it is still a single port head car you could use the stock carb from a 67 bug which was a 30 pict-1 with 105-1 stamped into the base. I have used many of these over the years and have found it to be a simple and trouble free carb once you set it up correctly. There is a guy in the Pacific Northwest who can rebush and rebuild these for you. Some of the other members will tell you who that is. Good luck Bob

[jinx758]

Coastal ...

Awesome on the research !
I've watched a few for setting up/using a manometer (water in hoses & bottles to sync multiple carburetors as a few car club members have duals). Doesn't apply here tho.

A couple of them were useful to figure out if lean or rich. These were for tuning motorcycle carburetors - think about releasing the throttle grip & it slams shut. All should return to a steady idle without lagging or stalling.

Some on U-tube have no clue what they're doing.
Had to replace the ignition in my '04 honda pilot. It has 2 safety screws (heads break of after torquing). Dude paused video saying it took almost an hour. I figured it out in about 15mins.
You can tell who has experience & who is just posting cuz they did it once so be wary.

Good luck ... stay safe

jinx

PS :
In Tx the choke adjustment can be minimal but it'd be different between Amarillo & McAllen. I close mine a little bit for Dec & Jan but I'm outside San Antonio so fairly temperate.
On a "cold" engine I always press go pedal once, turn key, & drive away. These systems are made to get you places & are very reliable when set up correctly. You should not have to wait - unless the choke is wired open or if something is amiss.[/vimeo]
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[oprn]

Adjusting the choke seasonally is mandatory here.

One of the few things I take issue with in the "Keep your VW alive" book is John's opinion and treatment of the choke. He is completely out to lunch on that issue! If I could reach back through history I would grab him by the bong and drag him and his chokeless car up here to Canada in the dead of winter and video him trying to get it started! It would be hilarious!
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Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old!

[CoastalBug]

[Bobs67vwagen]

That was a good motor I had one brand new. That came with a 30 pict-3 originally. The pict 1 and 2 both fit that intake.