Door rubber pics and information

[robin.richard]

[EverettB]

If you put seals on the left and right up and down channels on the body, the doors won't shut.

Did you trim them or thin them down?
I've tried it before and there's too much seal there to allow them to shut if there's seals on the doors and the body
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[robin.richard]

EverettB,

They seem to close fine, althoughlooking at the door gaps the upper/outer edge of the door is not perfectly flush like the lower edges of both doors. Less than an 1/8". This may be cause by not trimming the seals in the high spot area mentioned. I might try removing the seals tomorrow and see if there is a major change in alignment.

So, without the left and right seals (on body) how does the rain stay out? Does it just run to the top of the rocker seal? Then where?

-Rich
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[BarryL]

[Pepperbilly]

I used the WWest gray door seals on my ‘67 Westy. The front doors are the problem. I find the seals are not thick enough especially where the forward beltline “bulge” in the area of the rear view mirrors. I have water and wind leaks in that area. I noticed the original seals are overlapping and fill the space completely. The new seals are only one thickness. What to do?

Bill

[DUDE1125]

So I place my seals in as per the diagram and the door is pinching in the top and bottom corner. Is this common? I'm not sure if its my crappy body work shifted the hinge locations. I've tried adjusting the door location with no improvement. Is it as simple as trimming some foam off the corner?

thanks for any guidance

[Pepperbilly]

What door are we looking at here? Need a wider shot. It is not uncommon to make modifications to aftermarket seals.

Bill

[DUDE1125]

sorry if this is a double post

here's a wider angle view of the dooor

[Pepperbilly]

The first thing you have to establish is your door fit without any seals in place. Hopefully your metal work is spot on otherwise this is gonna turn into a fight to get the seals to seal.

One of the big problems with new seals is that they are not the originals. New after market seals will be uncompressed and usually too thick. A good tool to have is a bench belt sander to sand whatever thickness you desire. I had to do this on several new seals.

Look at my photos and you can see the indent in the seal that you want. I was lucky and reused my original top double door seal. That is the type of indent you want to achieve on most all your seals. This shows the door is sealing properly.

You are pinching at top and bottom? The pinch should be even all across the top. If you are not getting that pinch indent all over then it may be the doors are not fitted correctly.

Bill

[DUDE1125]

Thanks for the insights Pepperbilly. The doors seemed to close fine with out the seals so I think the body work is reasonably good. It looks like the seals are too thick and I'll need to sand them like you suggested.

I like those clips that hold your cabinet in place. Do they have a name? I wasn't sure how I was going to place the cabinet back in the bus. I can't remember what was holding it if anything when I took it out years ago.

Thank you

[Pepperbilly]

Those clips are the originals. They were used on SO42s but I don’t know about other camper models.

Bill

[DeadBlow]

Great.... Looks like I'll have to buy a new set of cargo door weatherstripping... I've installed the current kit according to the diagrams posted above by Everett, but forgot that the original was notched in the rear. so to try and fix it I shaved off the bulky portions that protrude out of the channel recesses. The Wolfsburg West stripping is stout and pretty firm. My door has been binding from the bulk of the stripping near the hinges and I've shaved more and more trying to get my door to close and it's just jacked now... And the door still won't close completely. I can barely get it to hold close but the latch doesn't engage completely and the pins at the top and bottom are not aligned to plug into their pockets in the body....

Is there another supplier that sells the stripping that doesn't use such firm, unforgiving material?
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[volksbus]

I am having a devil of a time finding the weatherstrip on the left.

I need the smaller, darker, less firm variety for the cargo doors on my 67 SO-42, for a variety of reasons.

I found out the hard way that both West Coast Metric and Wolfsburg West sell the same product (on the right).

Please help. All leads appreciated. Thanks!

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"Get in the bus!"
1967 SO-42 Campmobile "Klaus"
1963 DC Truck
1967 Dodge A-108 CampWagon

[BarryL]

Shopped here?
https://www.steelerubber.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoq0KYQ6EfFv0uARlCHlXvdUO9aUKIlm78Cd7ojLTeTUOT-YSnAh

[Buskraut]

[ted698]

I have to say the photo's on Page 1 of the various OG moulded NOS seals are a thing of beauty.... such a shame these are not re-man'd properly - I would buy a set for sure!

Another question I have is the seal for the front door tops, I have often seen a thinner seal located here with quite a concave surface, so the seal has a U shape moulded into it, with a flat bottom.
Some photos show this concave section outwards, so the frame top seals against it, others have it the other way around, so the square profile is against the frame, with the U shape innermost.

I had some on my late bus, and guess they were OG... does anyone re-man this shape seal?

Also the leading edge of the front portion of the main door seal was a different shape again, with a rounded edge, I guess to help with the door shut action to slide over the rounded portion of the seal.

I'm not convinced this current 'one size fits all' seal we all battle with is the most elegant solution!