Say hi to Kermit - 76 Campmobile - and tell me what my EC needs!

[virusdoc]

Hi there. I have been a member for several years, as I rebuilt and updated my 76 Super convertible. I have decided to expand the 76 air-cooled fleet, and recently purchased Kermit. He is a French variant of the Helsinki SO-P24 model. I ordered him from the UK to the US from RestoHaus (Bojangles on our classifieds) and that process was remarkably straightforward. Happy to chat about that if anyone is considering similar.

I bought Kermit because I loved the color, the body was rust free, the camper interior was nearly 100% stock and in great shape, and it still has the 2.0L with fuel injection in runnable condition, with at least one rebuild that is documented.

When he rolled off the transport yesterday, he would not even turn over. Bummer. But a quick fix. Battery was at 100% reading nearly 14 V. Sure enough, the connections on the back of the starter were in a moderate state of corrosion, probably from sitting near the shore in Devon UK for too long. Wire brush cleared that up, and all of a sudden we're getting full cranking power.

However, he still would only fire, then immediately die a second or two later. I poked around the engine compartment and find two very sketchy vacuum lines (circled below). The one on the left I believe to be part of the brake boost assist, but it was split wide open. I'm going to blame this on rocking in the ship during a 10 day transatlantic, but the hose itself looked fairly new. I snugged what was left of it down tight to the vacuum plenum, and then cinched it on with a tight zip strip. Immediately fired up and idled nicely and was drivable. Drives, accelerates, and shifts beautifully. The other circled elbow looks to be in bad shape, and I'd appreciate help identifying that hose part number and a source.

Please take a glance at my EC pics and help me make a punch list for what needs to be done. There are two connectors on the far right that aren't attached to anything. And I know this isn't the correct distributor. I have a SparkWerx rebuilt SVDA 043 that I wonder if I can use with this engine.

I also need to address the fact that the oil pressure light doesn't come on in key position 1. Probably a connection or a bulb, but definitely not something I want to drive without.

Any and all suggestions are welcome! I'll send a later post on the undercarriage, which overall is in good shape but missing the entire passenger side of the heating ducts. And the CV boots are shot and there is oil leaking from that area and the nose cone area of the transmission.

_________________
1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
Self-rebuilt 1904
1976 Campmobile 2.0L FI, "Kermit"

[virusdoc]

Some more pics of Kermit's interior.

_________________
1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
Self-rebuilt 1904
1976 Campmobile 2.0L FI, "Kermit"

[Wildthings]

[busdaddy]

Nice looking camper, it's been rusty in the past, hopefully the repairs were done well.

So many hose clamps on the vacuum hoses, not good if it ever backfires.
That cheapo 009 like distributor would be high on my list to get rid of, and the wires from the resistor pack are unsupported and carrying the weight of the harness, maybe turn the resistor pack over so there's some slack?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[virusdoc]

[Wildthings]

[virusdoc]

I will call them. Thanks!
_________________
1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
Self-rebuilt 1904
1976 Campmobile 2.0L FI, "Kermit"

[dodger tom]

[Shonandb]

Nice looking Bus! I like the colour and the frog theme.
_________________
*******************************
76 Westy with a 2.5L Subaru SOHC + Vanagon (010) Automatic Transaxle
Build & Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758760
Previous 1973 Panel Bus:
Click to view image

[borninabus]

i'm about to put my hands on this kit for the first time tomorrow.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2677860

looking forward to it
_________________
88 Van WBX, A/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[Abscate]

Beautiful!

Stick a piece of cardboard between that white 12 vdc bus wire and the sharp edge of the wheel well to stop chafe there.
_________________
🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🍊 🍊 🍊

[SGKent]

the elbow is 022-129-637. It may or may not be in GeeBee kit. There is a small metal pipe that fits into it to transition it to the hose going to the S Boot.
_________________
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Abscate]

FOrgot to add. The placement of the tea kettle in the water tank cutout brings me joy.
_________________
🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🍊 🍊 🍊

[virusdoc]

[virusdoc]

Took Kermit for his first decent drive--about 35 miles with mixed highway (55-60 mph) and stop and go traffic. I am really impressed with how well this engine is running. Very smooth torque curve, no sputtering or popping. Transmission shifts very well; synchronizers are all working properly and it's easy to find any gear up or down shifting. He's a bit bouncy, and probably needs shocks. It comes off load to a fast idle that take a long time to slow down. This may be related to the decal valve I think? After about 60-90 seconds it slows down to a respectable idle speed of around 800 (by ear--need to confirm with a tach meter).

At the end of the 45 minute drive, I took a thermal scan of the strainer plate. Oil was at ~225 degree F right after stopping. Given an ambient of 85 F this seems perfect, and suggests the air flap is locked in the HOT position. I do intend to replace the rest of the thermostat system in time.

Oil pressure light started working properly again just by fiddling with the bulb socket. Either it wasn't firmly locked or there was a bit of oxidation between the bulb and the board connections.

Now I'll dig in and start with the basics:
-Replace all the vacuum hoses
-Replace all fuel lines and filter
-Get an SVDA with points on there
-Valve adjustment ('76 CJ engine is not hydraulic, correct?)
-Set timing
-Compression and leak down tests
-Brake system check (seems fine--fluid level good and no evident leaks, but I need to check the pads).
_________________
1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
Self-rebuilt 1904
1976 Campmobile 2.0L FI, "Kermit"

[airschooled]

The high idle is almost certainly the 009’s doing. A proper VW distributor has more internal return springs for the mechanical advance.

If you’re new to late Westfalias, the best way to work on them is to lay out the bed and put a blanket down, so you can lay on your stomach and tinker with everything topside on the engine.

Robbie
_________________
One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:

www.airschooled.com

https://www.patreon.com/airschooled