72 Type 3 Square - Bring back to life

[Type3Todd]

The other day I was thinking that I was ready to bleed the brakes but when I was filling the reservoir, I heard a glug glug sound. The brake line that runs through the interior was cracked and was leaking all over the pan at about the rate that I was pouring in the brake fluid.

I've managed to get the old line out, but it was a real bear.

I ended up removing the rear brass fitting from the mount and the rear lines directly attached as it is easier to access them when not on the car. Took me the better part of the afternoon to do.

I have new brake line and it looks to be the correct length.

Is there any trick to installing the new line, especially though the back end? Seems like there is a double firewall or something that it needs to go through.

[Bobnotch]

[Type3Todd]

[Bobnotch]

You could split them with a razor knife, then super glue the cut. Or silicone the slice.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Type3Todd]

Installed the break line using the coat hangar, worked great. Brakes are now pretty much done, just need to order the correct right rear flexible line, I bought 2 lines for the left by mistake.

On the interior there are these:

How does one go about removing them? I want to be able to paint the floor pan there and they are in the way.

[nicnmike]

[Bobnotch]

[Type3Todd]

[Type3Todd]

For the Solex PDSIT carbs are they supposed to have an external return spring?

Also on the left carb, left hand side, there is a port which doesn't have anything connected to it, which I don't know what it's for.

This view is looking down at it from the top.

Sorry for the questions, but these are not covered in the brown Bently manual.

[EverettB]

Yes, these are not original springs but like this, one on each side:

The port is the vacuum line that goes to the vacuum-advance distributor.
If you do not have a vacuum-advance distributor, block it off with a cap or a small piece of vacuum hose with a screw in the end.
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[Bobnotch]

Yup, what Everett said about the fitting on the left carb. If your right carb has a fitting too, you'll want to plug it for sure. There should be a fitting on each manifold for a balance tube connection. Some are 5/16ths hose size, and some are larger, just so you know what your looking for/at when you find them. Most are pointed toward the rear, so they're out of the way, but maybe the PO didn't know any better. Just a heads up on that. I've seen it hooked up either way.
The normal carb springs have about 2-2.5 inches of straight wire, then the coiled part of the spring with hooks on each end with the lower hook attaching to the cooling tin (the upper hook attaches to the carb linkage) like Ev's pic above shows.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Type3Todd]

Thanks, I've ordered some springs, as my car didn't come with any.

This weekend I was clearing out the rear seats, in preparation to get the battery area de-rusted and painted so I can get the wiring sorted out.

Much to my dismay I found a lot of crud.

Apparently there were some mice that had been living in my car.

I think a lot of the rust on the interior surfaces is due to the mice marking their territory.

I've been using a proper N95 cartridge respirator since that discovery. I've blown out the heater channels and the vent with compressed air.

Before I get the car back on the road I'm going to have to see what I can do to paint the inside of the channels to kill any mould and bacteria in there. I want to be able to drive the car in the winter and so the car needs to have some heat.

[Bobnotch]

Mice getting into unused cars is common. Doesn't matter where you live either. They're good for destroying things. Look over the wiring before getting too far, as the rodents like to eat the plastic coating off.
As for the metal that was wizzed on, you might want to use a scraper for the industrial layer, then a wire brush (or cup for a drill) to clean it up. Then use some POR 15, or Master series, or something to coat it. Myself I like using epoxy primer (automotive grade), and I'll coat the pan on both sides with it. I tend to use it where I do any repair work on any car, not just my type 3s. What I like about using epoxy primer is that I can paint it with anything... spray cans, auto paint, whatever I have laying around. I'm mainly trying to seal the metal, as I live in the "salt belt".
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Type3Todd]

I think I'm going to leave the rust removal and painting for now. I want to get the car running so I can move it to a better position on the driveway.

Yesterday it was really hot so I worked on the wiring a bit. The motor had been removed from the car and converted to dual carb, then installed but none of the motor wiring was hooked up. I have the Bently manual so I've been going through the wiring diagram to reconnect all the wires. There are a couple that I'm not seeing in Bently.

The first one is red and going to what looks like a sensor, it gets spliced to one of the white wires for the ECU. The sensor is poking thought the left tin:

The next is a green wire that also is not in Bently, it looks to be for the oil pressure switch. It's the correct length and connector. Not sure what it's for though. Also I don't seem to have the correct blue/green wire for the oil switch, which is why I'm thinking that this is it. It's part of the wiring harness so it wasn't added in by one of the previous owners.

The 3rd wire is red/white spliced to red, is hanging down near the starter. It's going from the battery bay to the back of the car. I'm not finding any reference to this in Bently either, all the red/white spliced to red are in different locations. Sorry for the bad photo on this one.

[Bobnotch]

[Type3Todd]

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the quick reply, I did some more digging. Looking at the idiot light cluster, the blue green wire is there, not connected to any of the tabs, but since all the other tabs but one on it have wires connected I'm going to plug it into the one that doesn't have a wire connected.

Not all the terminal numbers on the cluster seem to match what is on the diagram, but it should be easy enough to figure out by the position of the light relative to the gauge. I'm going to have to break out the multi-meter and check if they are connected. I've got the green wire for the generator already hooked up, it uses a different connector (one of the round screw on types).

Since the light cluster was hanging down when I got the car, I'm thinking that the previous owner was hanging the same problem figuring out how the oil switch is supposed to be connected. Lol.

[Bobnotch]

[Type3Todd]

Turns out the green wire is indeed the going to the oil pressure light. It must get spliced into the correct wire somewhere in the harness.

My car has the special test port, so there are some additional wires that seemingly have no function. Maybe I should take my car to the VW service centre and tell them to hook it up!

Anyhow I was looking at the wiring diagram and trying to figure out what/where the various relays are on the car, and there are 2 that I'm having difficulty to identify, they are located on the left side under the rear seat close to the voltage regulator. I think the larger one is for the fuel injection stuff and the smaller one is for the rear window defogger. I can't be sure because the wire colours are not exactly the same as in the diagram.

[Bobnotch]

Yup, the big right one is the FI relay, while the smaller one is for the standard non-functional rear window defogger. That one is common not to work, as the grid was sprayed(?) onto the glass and probably wiped off it.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Type3Todd]

It's been a while since I've posted, so I thought I'd do a bit of an update.

I've purchased a battery and installed it, installed the exhaust that came with the car, verified all the fuel likes are good, and installed a fuel filter and gotten the engine running.

I've also completed the brake system rebuild and bled the brakes. I had quite a lot of difficulty to bleed them, and took a bit of research to find a technique that works.

I picked up the correct torque multiplier tool

from CIP, but the correct torque setting written on it isn't legible. What is the correct setting for it for the rear axle nuts?

After that the next order of business will be to install a set of new cv drive shafts that came with the car and get the car moving under it's own power.