Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start?

[poundman]

@SGKENT thanks for the detailed response. Good luck with surgery. I pray it all goes well.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

[Clatter]

You keep asking questions that are in the build thread in my sig.

Why not just read it?
I know it’s long and wordy, but there’s a few bits in it…
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Bus Motor Build

I have excellent news for the world...
There is no such thing as patina.
It does not exist!

[poundman]

Thanks Clatter, I have skimmed thru the thread.

Update:

Question, I am putting the engine back together, enough to get it test running on the bench. What engine tins do I need to get on before other parts to avoid undoing something. I did get the bottom deflects that are under the tubes, but I think there are a few more than should be fitted.

I did some test fits today and determined the tin between cylinder 4 and oil cooler is the only one that is hard to get in with cooler in place. I will put that one in before I install cooler it is #3 in diagram.

PS. I left out the metal shims between head and jug, I think was advised by a few people. This might increase compression a little. Shim under the jug remains because I did not remove the jugs.

Another question, I can remember where this tin goes.

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[poundman]

Another odd question, any better way to remove these rivets beside just drilling them out? They hold the tray below the insulation above the engine. I am fitting a engine hatch and need to remove the old tray before I start.

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[busdaddy]

3/16" drill, there is no other option.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[poundman]

Someone mentioned using sealant on push rod o-rings, something with teflon which I can't seem to find. What about one of these?

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[lil-jinx]

RTV silicon sealant is the proper thing to use,just a very thin coat ,it will lubicate the ring for easy install and it will help with the sealing.teflon provides a anti friction property,and it may not stick to a silicone oring,non stickiness is also a property of teflon.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[airschooled]

Type 4 pushrod tube seals with engine oil or non-hardening sealant only. No way I’d let RTV near mine.

Robbie
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[busdaddy]

X2, they have to be able to move.
I use grease, and polish the bores in the heads so they slide smoothly.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Wildthings]

Teflon pipe thread sealant works very well for this job. Since its a lubricant it makes the tubes slide into place very easily thus greatly lowering the chance a seal will be pinched and cut as you push the tube into place in the head.

[lil-jinx]

i was going by what is in tom wilson's book,he says use rtv silicone or permatex 3H,
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[poundman]

Ok I got my heads installed with push rods, rockers and started to adjust the valves. I ran into a bit of an issue with #4 exhaust valve. It appears the exhaust valves don't have the same amount of travel as the intake valves. Is that correct?

I am using the instructions from the Bently Manual. I marked TDC before I put the heads on and I am rotating CCW and watching distributor move 90deg for each cylinder, doing 1-2-3-4. However, only they last one I did, which was #4 seem to have less travel. I managed to it it adjust but the rockers screw is almost all the way out.

Any tips? I did remove the rocker to make sure the push rods were seated correcting in the lifter tab and the arm. Could the lifter be stuck? I was not able to get all them out, but I think it had travel when I was trying. How can I fixed the lifter issue? If I remove that push rod tube and try and move the lifter?

Unless I hear from someone I will likely it it test running and hope it settles in when I get oil and movement going. I will do some research. Here are a few pictures

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[Wildthings]

Your pushrod is likely not seated correctly in the lifter. Twist it around a bit and it might pop in, if not you will need to loosen the nuts holding the rocker shafts to the head until there is no pressure on that particular pushrod and you can work pushrod into place.

[poundman]

[Wildthings]

[Willin]

#4 exhaust is paired to #2. If there was nothing wrong with #2, then make sure you are on TDC in the firing position. Both rockers will be loose, of course. In the picture, it looks to me you're not.
I wouldn't fire it up till you figure out that #4 ex. Rotate engine forward and check each cylinder. With a timed distributor installed, look at where the rotor points.Should point to a wire terminal on the cap.
Have you gotten any peek of the cam lobes?
Have you checked your deck height? My engine had the head gaskets, which I DID NOT use. But I got different shims for the cylinder bases to reset my deck to @.040. The small increase in CR is said to be beneficial.

It's easy enough to pull the P+C's. Clean good first. Pistons can then be properly cleaned and checked. Your LAPS can loan you a cylinder hone and a piston ring compressor.

Don't get in a hurry at this point.
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73 bus. Org. 1700 with dual Weber 40 idfs, bus header with Empi qp muffler, CB magnaspark 2 " ready to run kit".

[poundman]

I think I might have figured out my problem with valve adjustment. I noticed that the rocker arm for exhaust on #4 (the problem child) has a different number than the other exhaust rocker arms.

#4 has a code 46 R 5
All other exhaust rockers have code 7 H 24.

It is very hard to tell them apart. Could this be the problem? I have search the samba and can't find reference to the rocker arm codes.

# 4 exhaust is the back rocker

# 3 exhaust is front rocker

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[Wildthings]

The Type 4 engine requires 4 each of two distinctly different rockers. What you are likely seeing is casting numbers and not part numbers. If you put the differently numbered lifter on one of the rocker shaft right next to one of the other three similar lifters, does it appear to be dimensionally the same?

[poundman]