What is going on with my starter?

[nateweezer]

I'm trying to remove the starter on my 1990 van with ej22 engine. I was able to get the bottom bolt off no problem but when it comes to the top one it seems to be this weird nut/stud or something like that VS the torx bolt that should be in there.

Does anyone know what it is or how to remove it? It seems near impossible to get a wrench around due to the metal bar circled below.

[dhaavers]

Dang, that sucker has been used & abused, rounded off beyond recognition.

Time to roll up your sleeves & use all your tricks…

- Dave

Also: Delete your duplicate thread…
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[Ahwahnee]

If there's enough clearance a flare nut wrench can be one way to get a grip on a rounded nut. You might even use a grinder on the wrench to help it get in there.

[syncrodoka]

I would spray it with carb cleaner to clean off all the crusties that will impede removal progress. Extra credit if you give it a squirt of penetrating fluid.
That nut is bad enough that I would lean towards taking it off with vise grips and replace it with new hardware.

[crazyvwvanman]

Maybe there is a nut at the other end and you could turn the nut while holding the bolt head still?

Mark

[?Waldo?]

I can't tell if that is a severely rusted nut on the end of a bolt or the head of a bolt. In either case, as crazyvwvanman mentioned, you should be turning the other end. The flat in the casting of the starter (circled in red) is an intentional design feature that prevents it from turning, so you can just turn the end of the fastener at the engine side and don't need to hold a wrench on both ends (requiring a second person).

[dabaron]

vise grips are your friend. 3 sizes for all occasions.
_________________
1991 Vanagon GL Camper
i had no idea i wanted to be a mechanic

[Sodo]

[?Waldo?]

Yes, it is an auto trans and the OP needs to STOP attempting to loosen the fastener at the starter! Instead, they need to loosen the other end at the engine/adapter plate!

[nateweezer]

[?Waldo?]

Not all adapter plates are the same. I hope I am wrong, but if I am correct that the flat cast into the starter (circled in red) prevents that bolt/nut from rotating, then it is impossible for that to be a stud with a nut on the end of it as it would be impossible for it to be tightened down. Before cutting it off, you might want to ensure that I am wrong and that the hex CAN rotate past that flat before cutting it off. Otherwise, after it is cut off, you might find that it is not possible to reinstall the starter without removing the trans or engine in order to access the other end of that fastener in order to tighten the starter in place. Good luck. I hope it works out.

[vanis13]

[?Waldo?]

I hope that you are right. However, it would be wise to proceed with caution as I've seen some remarkably poor designs. It hasn't been mentioned who made the adapter plate. It could even be a one-off by a DIYer. The flat cast into the starter is to prevent the bolt from spinning. That design is very common, but it could be using a smaller than stock nut.

As far as who would design things in a way that makes service more difficult than necessary? Here are some examples of real world incredibly poor designs that I have seen firsthand on stock vehicles. On the Mk3 TDI with all stock parts it is not possible to remove the oil pan without removing either the engine or the transmission and removing the clutch and flywheel because bolts at the flywheel end of the pan are inaccessible due to the design of the flywheel. The Bay Bus requires that the engine be removed in order to remove the fuel tank in order to access the fuel sender for the gauge. It is not uncommon for FWD vehicles to require engine removal to swap the timing belt with a 60k or 100k service interval, e.g. my parents owned an '85 Isuzu I-mark (rebranded Chevy Spectrum) that required the engine to be removed to access the timing belt. There are some American V8 engines that cannot have one or more spark plugs changed without removing the engine. I could go on but you get the idea. The list of those sorts of designs is virtually endless although I agree that they are ridiculous.

Hopefully the angle of the pic is indeed deceptive and there isn't a captive nut or bolt head between the engine and adapter plate that will just spin when attempting to tighten the starter. That is why I recommended ensuring the situation before cutting.

@nateweezer, have you looked on the engine side?

How much space is between the flat of the hex and the flat cast into starter?

[Ahwahnee]