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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 10:21 am    Post subject: Formula Street Reply with quote

I've been driving around days at a time with nothing better to do that look at the scenery. And think about motors.

And, I came up with a specification I call Formula Street. I claim the trademark Formula Street. Mine! Don't call it Formula Street unless you build it like I do.

I should have registered Freeway Flyer when I came up with it.


I was going to spell out the specification in detail but I figure I'll back into it. I'll throw down a few parameters and listen to what y'all have to say. After all, this is supposed to be a discussion.


Concept: CB's "Builders Choice" engine kits are well over $5000 each. I'm not embarrassed to say exactly zero of my Bugs out in the barn cost over $5000, not even my oval sunroof.

The hard line I'd like to throw down is cost. I built some great motors as far back as thirty years ago for less than a grand in parts. So, cost:

$1000 in parts starting with a core motor,

$2000 in parts built on a new case.

That's $1000 all in starting with a core, $2000 all in starting with a new case.


Bear in mind this is supposed to be a motor you can build and get right maybe even on your first try.


Double the cost if you're going to have someone else build it. Those guys gotta eat and pay the rent, too.


We're not tryiin' to win races or build the (usually hypothetical) 200hp VW motor. You are clever indeed if you can do that for a grand.


For a little more focus, let's say 1776cc.

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BFB
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

so its a "build a mild engine for under a grand " challenge , starting with a donor engine?
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

Carbs along can be over $1000 if buying new.
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 11:03 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

BFB wrote:
so its a "build a mild engine for under a grand " challenge , starting with a donor engine?


Yup.

There are a lot of project Bugs that the owners won't finish because they let their reach exceed their grasp. That's not difficult to do with the cost of body, paint and then a $5000 motor and a $2000 transmission.

Glenn wrote:
Carbs along can be over $1000 if buying new.


No doubt. So we won't spend $1000 on carbs.

I take inspiration from wailing Formula Vees breathing through single "28mm" carbs from the 1950s.


As you know it's often a slide down a slippery slope. Start with a stroker crank and trick rods, you'll be lucky to keep the basic reciprocating assembly around (likely over) $500 using Chinese parts. It's easier if you budget $1000 for the crank and rods. Then the clutch and flywheel. Before you know you're the proud owner of $5000 worth of engine parts while your VW is still on jack stands.

Right now I'm sittin' on three counterweighted cranks (ouch! Cool ) I'm sittin' on three cranks, a set of 5.4 "H" beams, a set of 5.5 "H" beams, a set of suddenly "Old School" 044s 'cuz they're not Panchitos and we won't use those on our budget motor anyway.

I can blow a budget as well as anyone. I'm hoping to go back to my Thrifty Yankee roots on this one.

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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

Got a set of 40 Dells for $200. I'm probably going to go cheaper. I've got two pairs of Kadrons and three pairs of 34 ICTs. I'm probably going to use the ICTs because they leave plenty of wiggle room in my budget. I bought a "tote fulla carbs" a few months ago. Tote contained two sets of ICTs with the manifolds and linkages, a Solex 34PICT3, a Bocar 34 copy and a couple progressives.

Using your buddy's hand- me- downs isn't cheating. Very Happy


If anyone can honestly say,

"This motor is 100% floor sweepings and it cost me nothing"...

I'll send them a three foot tall trophy. There's a chrome guy bowling on top of the trophy. Don't know where I got it, just got it. Very Happy

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67rustavenger
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 11:42 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

Ha, I could probably do this for under $500.

I have a core engine on the garage floor that needs a camshaft, lifters and, maybe bearings.
I already have the camshaft and lifters sitting in the garage too. Wink

I also have a set of Chinese 40 IDF's in storage, if I were to use the cam and lifters in the other core engine I have sitting here with DP heads.
This one is questionable. It overheated on the way home from a camping trip two years ago and I already had an engine waiting to install in the car.
So, I just haven't touched it.

Think Things to ponder.

EDIT: What is the end goal of the Formula Street engine build?
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NJ John
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 12:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

I can sweep the floor and only spend on a few missing things. What I don’t have is time. That part is really starting to suck.
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:
Ha, I could probably do this for under $500.


I'll band saw two feet off my three foot tall trophy and send it to you. Very Happy

67rustavenger wrote:
I have a core engine on the garage floor that needs a camshaft, lifters and, maybe bearings.
I already have the camshaft and lifters sitting in the garage too. Wink

I also have a set of Chinese 40 IDF's in storage, if I were to use the cam and lifters in the other core engine I have sitting here with DP heads.
This one is questionable. It overheated on the way home from a camping trip two years ago and I already had an engine waiting to install in the car.
So, I just haven't touched it.


That's what I'm talkin' about.

I'm hoping you didn't cook your heads. But... if you have two engines you can do pick of the litter using parts from both.

Actually, you can do whatever you want. I was also thinkin' Nietzsche and what it means to be a "winner".

67rustavenger wrote:
What is the end goal of the Formula Street engine build?


My goals are numerous and varied. You can pick any you think apply to you.

1) There are a lot of stalled projects out there. A primary consideration is to keep things from getting so complicated and / or expensive stalled projects stay stalled.

2) We want enough high performance parts to keep things interesting and / or exciting but not so many hi po parts we find ourselves with a $5000 parts kit.

3) A $1000 motor with a big hole in it isn't as sad as a $5000 motor with a big hole in it.

4) We will attempt to choose parts so we won't be sidelined by "supply chain issues" or parts cost dramatically increased by circumstances beyond our control.

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halfassleatherworks
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

My 1975 1800 and Automatic trans $00.00 I did a trade, $90.00 HF 20 ton air/hydraulic jack and something else I forget.
Then sold the trans and torsion assembly for $400.00.
Overhaul, some old maybe 15 year old WD 40 to free it up, pull the rockers and plugs, fill the holes let sit fill again.
New cam gear and bolts, rod and main bearings because of some
water damage, gasket kit.
Flywheel bolts, new ignition kit, Dist., coil, plugs and wires $219.00 or so.
Set of used 32/34 pdsit carbs, manifolds, linkage, air filter housing, around 300. cleaned everything up and reused the rings. my time $00.00,
two chambered mufflers from Summit Racing 19.99 each, pick up no shipping.
Maybe another 150-200 For miscellaneous..
Do I qualify for your Formula Street? or maybe just a cheep old Bastard?
Runs good I just need to get it drivable.
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BFB
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

I think this is a cool idea Dusty1 , but there has to be other guidelines. We cant just build something from parts we have because different people have been collecting for different amount of time.
I for one have a loft thats probably 20’ x 30’ thats full of vw parts I’ve collected over the last 15-16 years, some ppl have a lot more than i do and others have no stock pile. A lot of my stuff I bartered for, and once i got a whole pickup bed full of engine parts for $200. So how do we determine what values are to make this fair?

I also dont have the time to actually build the engine for this game, so could we have a theoretical build category? As long as all parts are actually in hand and cost assessed or something like that?
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U&I
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2025 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

I can do this.....
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2025 3:36 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

BFB wrote:
I think this is a cool idea Dusty1 , but there has to be other guidelines. We cant just build something from parts we have because different people have been collecting for different amount of time.

While I've given this quite a bit of thought... easily 1000 miles driving New England back roads, I figured everyone would get a chance to gloat over really great deals they've found and discuss favorite low buck builds. Like this:

halfassleatherworks wrote:
My 1975 1800 and Automatic trans $00.00 I did a trade, $90.00 HF 20 ton air/hydraulic jack and something else I forget.
Then sold the trans and torsion assembly for $400.00.
Overhaul, some old maybe 15 year old WD 40 to free it up, pull the rockers and plugs, fill the holes let sit fill again.
New cam gear and bolts, rod and main bearings because of some
water damage, gasket kit.


That's the spirit! Winner, winner, chicken dinner! Want part of a sawed- off bowling trophy?

Seriously. Kudos for finding a low buck Type 4.

I have to look. I got a 90.5mm Bus piston with my last parts buy. It's part of what is now a broken set. I know where I got it. I'll see if I can get the rest of the set.

BFB wrote:
I also don't have the time to actually build the engine for this game, so could we have a theoretical build category? As long as all parts are actually in hand and cost assessed or something like that?


Hypothetical is fine. We can be sure a gentleman of your talents will spec out a cohesive package. Further, it's likely you have a parts list that will play nice with each other. Don't need to build it. If you say it will work it will work.

Someone else can build it. Like this guy...

luftgekuehlt wrote:
I'd like to ask for advice: I want to learn to rebuild a VW motor.


Wasn't exactly what I was thinking but a single carb and a low buck turbo could be lots of fun.


The dual port end casting thread is nearby. 75hp through stock end castings would suit me. That 75hp turns into a lot more if you blow on it.

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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 2:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

Aw. I was hopin' I'd be off the grid for a few days and come back to a few good ideas.

Why I'm goin' with Formula Street:

I've been messin' with Formula Vee.

(from an adjacent thread:)

58 Plastic Tub wrote:
Do you run FV, Dusty?

I've been looking very hard at it. It's the arcane rulebook and the lack of track time (20 minute races? Really?) that has kept me from it.


At first glance Formula Vee looks like it should be Formula Low Buck. Like any Pay To Play racing the sad fact is he with the fattest wallet wins. $6000 worth of Penske shocks per Vee are evidence of that. Unless you're "racing" Demo Derby, maybe. It's more likely racers suck at math. How else do you explain buyin' fuel and tires for the race car, fuel for your tow vehicle, meals, hotel rooms and then risking your life to win a slice of pizza and a plastic trophy?

My Vee buddies are a little tight lipped about what they pay for fresh motor or a rebuilt transmission. I am sure the guys who win go out on new tires with a fresh motor. I'm also sure that they're twisting them tight enough to damage the case. That's the rationale behind 20 minute main events. With a little luck you can replace the bearings and the valve springs and get another weekend out of it.


Porsche's original VW 1930s prototype engines had dual port heads. And cooling problems. The first production engines had single port heads. It's not a flaw, it's a feature. It's a mechanical "rev limiter".

Not to say I'm going to specify single port heads.

I am going to specify a stock non- counterweighted crankshaft like Formula Vee. Stock crank, detailed and eight dowelled mated to a balanced flywheel. Use a single roll pin to index the clutch to the flywheel.

Yeah, I'm going to hurt my case if I constantly buzz it over 5000 rpm. The rest of the time I'm not giving away horsepower to a heavier (compared to stock) counterweighted crank.

I'm not too worried. I always wound my stock dual ports as tight as they would go.

Further rationale is I have a big pile of stock cranks and rods. It costs me nothing to use them. It costs me more like $500 for a low buck Chinese crank and rods. If it doesn't cost me $500 up front you can be sure it costs me $500 when I add in shipping. If it doesn't cost me over $500 now just wait another year.

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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 2:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

Why use dual port heads?

when the rule was dropped, replacement SP heads didn't exist, but now they do.
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

modok wrote:
Why use dual port heads?

when the rule was dropped, replacement SP heads didn't exist, but now they do.


Formula Vee specific,

To my knowledge there are no aftermarket castings of the 40 horse heads we use for SCCA Formula Vee.

I'm not so picky on my street engines. I don't have to get them past a tech inspector. Cool

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2025 3:32 am    Post subject: Re: Formula Street Reply with quote

I have a type 3 and at least two type 1 engines that would work for this. The trick is finding a case that is re-useable without spending a King's ransom on machining. Gaskets, rings and bearings are going to run close to $500.

I have a set of type 3 carbs that need throttle bushings and a set of Bus dual carbs that need cleaning.
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