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maco70 Samba Member

Joined: March 16, 2011 Posts: 488 Location: Montréal, Québec
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2025 5:14 pm Post subject: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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Hello everyone,
For several years, the switch wire to the high oil pressure on my 2.1 engine was connected directly to the ground, because the buzzer and light would activate when the warm engine's revolutions dropped below 2200 rpm.
A mechanic with some initiative recently reconnected the switch (and replaced it with a new one).
Another mechanic, this one a reputable one, confirmed that the cylinder compression and engine oil pressure are fine.
However, the reconnected high oil pressure switch is causing problems, because the oil light and buzzer frequently activate when the engine is warm, typically when exiting the highway and I want to lower the revs. Below 2200 rpm, the buzzer and light activate.
I have to shift into neutral and blip the accelerator to stop the activation of the light and buzzer. I have good reason to believe that the low-pressure switch is OK.
I'm aware that my engine may be nearing the end of its life, even though I maintain it very well.
Would it be appropriate to disconnect the wire connecting the switch (brown wire in the photo, originally yellow) and ground it to eliminate the activation of the light and buzzer at highway exits (when the oil and engine are hot)?
I could ground the wire at the distributor base :
Martin _________________ Martin from Montréal
1986 Vanagon GL full camper westfalia
(brown/tan interior) |
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MarkWard Samba Member

Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 18699 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2025 5:22 pm Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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Did they note the pressure spec of the switch? It’s usually engraved into the switch. There is a lower pressure switch that is recommended. I don’t recall the pressure differences in switches. |
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maco70 Samba Member

Joined: March 16, 2011 Posts: 488 Location: Montréal, Québec
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2025 5:25 pm Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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Do you mean the one at the left front of the engine, close to the thermostat, or an another high pressure switch? _________________ Martin from Montréal
1986 Vanagon GL full camper westfalia
(brown/tan interior) |
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dhaavers Samba Member

Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 8375 Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2025 8:27 pm Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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maco70 wrote: |
…A mechanic…confirmed that the cylinder compression and engine oil pressure are fine… |
If the HOT oil pressure numbers are “fine”, why do you think your engine is “nearing the end of it’s life”? How may miles (km) on the engine?
The OP numbers will tell the tale. Please share the HOT oil pressure psi numbers at idle and under load at highway speed. You’d like to see 8-10 psi at HOT idle, and at least 35psi highway speed (88-100kph) at full operating temperature. Less than that, you start to take your chances.
Buzzer-wise, the old oil pressure switch was possibly bad…the new switch may also be bad! (Yes, it happens!)
Get the measured OP numbers from your mechanic & report back.
- Dave _________________ 86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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RawUmber Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2019 Posts: 303
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 8:22 am Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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maco70 wrote: |
For several years, the switch wire to the high oil pressure on my 2.1 engine was connected directly to the ground, because the buzzer and light would activate when the warm engine's revolutions dropped below 2200 rpm. |
Grounding the High Pressure circuit would signal to the controller that you have High Pressure. But the second part appears (technically) backwards: The High Pressure switch should only trigger the LED if the RPM simultaneously exceeds the threshold (~2050) RPM. However once triggered (and this may be what you observed), the LED will continue blinking (latched) until the High Pressure switch threshold is exceeded (closed), regardless of RPM. 'Blipping the accelerator' may increase the oil pressure, triggering the High Pressure switch to reset the LED (off).
More specifics, FWIW:
The Low Pressure switch (normally closed) grounds its circuit UNTIL pressure exceeds its threshold. Grounding causes the cluster LED to blink under all conditions. The concept being that a running engine should exceed a minimum oil pressure.
The High Pressure switch (normally open) grounds its circuit AFTER pressure exceeds its threshold. The absence of High Pressure while the RPM exceeds threshold (>2050 RPM) causes the LED to blink. Once triggered, LED will blink until High Pressure switch closes, regardless of subsequent RPM. The concept being that an engine running >2050 RPM should exceed a minimum high pressure.
Edit: As helpfully pointed out by hardway and Wildthings below, the Vanagon High Pressure switch has a different pressure threshold and color than what is listed in the diagram above.
Last edited by RawUmber on Sun Jul 13, 2025 6:51 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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hardway Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2012 Posts: 485 Location: Fidalgo Island
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 4:34 pm Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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The correct high pressure oil switch is 068 919 081A or C. The plastic is grey. The calibration is .75-1.05 Bar. This is engraved on the switch. The switch in your photo is grey.
In my experience measuring the oil pressure without a long test drive is of limited value. On one of my own fleet the buzzer went off a lot. My wife drives that one. I had to permanently install an accurate dash mounted oil pressure gauge to prove that the buzzer was accurate.
If the buzzer is accurate then the oil pressure is not fine. Defeating the warning system is not a solution. I have seen a lot of vans with that wire grounded. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52283
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2025 6:16 pm Post subject: Re: 2.1 stock engine high pressure switch |
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If a previous owner had grounded the wire to the high pressure switch out, then that indicates that the problem may have been there for a long time by now. I know that the electronics for the high pressure warning light can and do go bad, but lack knowledge on troubleshooting them.
I would probably start with trying another switch, maybe one from the dealer. The original switch is a normally open switch that closes at a nominal 13 psi (0.9 bar), with an acceptable range of 11-15 PSI (0.75-1.05 bar) |
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