Ready to start rebuilt engine - I think

[Tenknots]

I've done my best to build this engine but not having done it before I'm a little apprehensive about starting it. During assembly I used plenty of assembly lube, there is new break-in oil in the crankcase and I've static timed it as best I can. Valves are set correctly. Every thing is torqued to specs. I rebuilt the carb so I know it will need some adjustments. Almost every component of the engine is brand new. I'll get a gallon gas jug for fuel for now and I've got a new battery.

So, my question is, what should I do before starting it? I assume the engine will spin quite a few times before it catches and I would hope that would build some measure of oil pressure before (if) it fires. How long can I let it spin before starting if it won't catch? Assuming it starts, just let it idle? (It's mounted in the car, not on a stand). If it starts, how long until I drain the break-in oil and put in regular oil?

Thanks in advance for answers and advice. If it doesn't start, I'll be back!

[lgherb]

Add oil.
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The only dumb question is the one that is never asked.

[bsairhead]

Pull the plugs, easier spin. or just disconnect the coil wire, do not ground it and verify your oil pressure light does work and does go out. If you put in a new cam and or new lifters you need to run it up to 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. If not get it timed and break in the rings. Then change oil.

[Bobs67vwagen]

I would take the plugs out and.crank the motor with the battery for about 10 seconds at a time and do this 6 or 7 times. This will build oil pressure and will also let you listen to the engine spin in for any sounds that do not sound right. I always did break in oil for 40 or 50 miles and then changed it and checked the strainer for any odd looking material. Good luck I hope all goes well. Bob

[KTPhil]

As above. Also:
Add a cam lubricant (ZDPP) to the break-in oil.
Change oil and adjust valves after cam break-in.
Recheck ignition timing.

Do this at 100 miles also.
Then at 500 miles.
Then the regular 3000 miles thereafter.
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Retired:
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[Tenknots]

Thanks for all the advice! I’m going to remove the plugs and spin it a few times before starting.

[Cusser]

Yes, triple-check that the oil level is correct.

With new engines, I've just pulled the coil wire and cranked the engine, and the oil pressure light will soon go out.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[MTT3107]

With a new, or rebuilt engine, I like to crank it without the spark plugs, till I see oil pressure, either on a gage, or when the oil pressure light goes off.
Of course, after verifying that it actually works...

After, that, install plugs and go for it, and watch for leaks or anything else unusual.

[MTT3107]

With a new, or rebuilt engine, I like to crank it without the spark plugs, till I see oil pressure, either on a gage, or when the oil pressure light goes off.
Of course, after verifying that it actually works...

After, that, install plugs and go for it, and watch for leaks or anything else unusual.