Behind the rotar grease

[bugbenginer]

Do you repack/grease the backside of the rotor when installing new CV axles?

I bought these from bus depot

Here is my brand new transmission that I just had installed, do I take out the Blue tabs/plugs?

Do I repack grease on the back of the rotar where the cv axle mounts to

Thanks in advance!!
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[kreemoweet]

The thing you call a "rotor" is a "flange", it is the differential output flange (inboard) or the stub axle drive flange (outboard). The blue seal is to prevent transmission oil from leaking into the CVJ, you never pull that out when intalling/removing the CVJ's.
You put all the grease INSIDE the CVJ's, some grease will always work its way out into the flange recess due to CVJ/axle movement.
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[Wildthings]

I have always filled the depression in the flange. Many of these old rigs came with a second plastic cap that kept the grease out of the flanges, so there was no area to fill, but few of those caps are still in existence anymore so filling the flange with grease helps to keep grease in the CV where you want it.

[SGKent]

I've always just replaced the CV joints and never the whole thing. I did that on an Acura with one from Napa and it broke at a casting flaw about a block and a half later. Wasn't even turning or getting on it. Had to back all the way home. Put the old ones in and took the Napa one back. Then put in refurbished Acura ones and they worked perfectly for years. So for that reason I am leery of aftermarket kits, and only use Lobro CV's as replacements on the factory axles. They wear but that is the design. I want to say that with service the Lobro CVs would last 100,000 miles or there abouts until the pits were too deep to use anymore. I'd keep the old ball bearings and use only the best when rebuilding them at about 45,000 miles, or every 3 years. Some places now sell new cages, ball bearings, and inner races if those are worn.

I looked online and there are some later VW's and Bugs that use a stamped metal plate to contain the grease, and some Vanagon kits have a foam seal that keeps the CV's from slinging. Although if one uses a good grease they normally won't sling as long as they are properly tightened.

Also I did figure out the difference between the Vanagon and Bus difference in torque on the bolts. There are two different bolts used on CV's. One was for Bays, and one was for Vanagons. The bus ones are 10.8 hardness and are allen style head. They use the special washers to lock. The later Vanagon ones are hex head and 12.9 hardness. They do not use the special washers but are torqued to a higher torque. There was a lengthy dicussion where some use the washers regardless. I am merely saying what VW ENGINEERS DID, not what some others say to do.

After some discussion on greases, RG said that tests he was involved in suggested using the Redline Synthetic CV-2 grease worked better for preventing wear than the greases in the small pouches that come with the CV's. I recently replaced the boots and repacked the CV's after 12 years use. Used the redline CV-2. It is a good but messy grease. One can use wire or wire ties to hold the CVs to the boots so that they do not fall apart during transport or installation.

All that said, CV joint service is a job every bus owner gets to know, and one that is messy. Personally I hate it due to the mess. But the show goes on and it has to be done.
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[raygreenwood]

[wiscowesty]

Thanks for clueing us in on bolt hardness and torque specs. Certainly answers that question. Because of failing boots i have become kind of handy switching them out and use the expensive greases to be found. I fill the void in drive flange and also pack CVJ's by rubber gloved hand. But first i use brake clean and remove all offending grit grime and grease clean bolts and threads. Due to escaping grease from boot flange to drive flanges. I started to smear a semi transparent oil resistaint gasket maker goop on inside boot flange and drive flange face and let it set up. Before install. Torque to spec. I have unknownly torqued to vanagon specs while using bay window fasteners. Seems fine? But the gasket maker goop really stops hot thin grease from ozzing out. And than my fear of not enough grease prompted me to purchase a stainless steel syringe used for injecting juicey spices deep into meat. The syringe is a chore to pack full, but one finds creative ways. The longest needle in the kit with largest bore is bent slightly to allow insertion between axle and small end of boot. Use a tiny flat nose screw driver to open a gap to slip the needle in Qwells my lack of grease sydrome. Hoping the VW tirgon OEM boots hold up for a decent time. Grease it if it will take it. Have fun
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[jlrftype7]