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DUNGBTL 
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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 Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2025 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Did a couple wiring ‘odds ‘n ends’…
Modified the my left side heater duct blocking plate for a grommet for the engine harness. One that I can push the large engine connectors thru and still seal the harness…
Ultimately, the engine harness to the right will be wrapped and go thru said grommet…
Not sure why I didn’t do the next thing while I was wiring the battery/HSR/mega fuse area…it would have been infinitely easier.  I added a basic battery disconnect……not a lot of room to install with battery etc. in place……I had to remove the battery & HSR/fuse panel just to gain access to the mounting locn.
The switch came with this neat bracket…
I used one of the block off plate fasteners to attach the top, but the bottom fastener took an hour!  The tbar tube on the other side was too close to the blkhd to allow a Rivnut install, so I had use a nut on the backside.
The resulting Yoga poses required to hold the nut whilst turning the driver inside the car were epic.
But in the end, the disconnect was installed, tested and declared a success! Power ON… …and OFF…
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 678
Location: LA
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| Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2025 8:05 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Looks good . Are you going to be able to access it easily?
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2025 7:35 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| Looks good . Are you going to be able to access it easily? |
Yes, easy access after lifting up the right side close out panel. Panel held down with Velcro tabs. The 3/4” square aluminum spacers provide finger access to remove panels.
It’s just a simple battery disconnect…not a race car kill switch w/alt cutoff where quick emergency access would be reqd.
J. |
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H2OSB
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1533
Location: Modesto, CA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2025 9:35 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I'm glad we're friends J....I totally plan to steal a bunch of your ideas 
H2OSB
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(o\_i_/o) Funny thing about pigs, they're cleaner than you and me. Well....you. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2025 7:32 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| H2OSB wrote: |
I'm glad we're friends J....I totally plan to steal a bunch of your ideas
H2OSB |
  …take only the ‘good’ ones! |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 5:22 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I was up in my ‘storage’ getting down the fuel lines for install and saw this…
I had forgotten I purchased a pair of 944 25.5mm tbars 6 months ago…I would have ordered SAW bars had I not seen those…I totally forgot I had those!
H2OSB and I had had previous discussions on tbar size. He had suggested 26mm because he had hit the bump stops on hard launches with 24’s (if I recall correctly). With the extra weight of the EJ25 motor he thought it would be prudent to go w/26’s. With my adjustable rear sway bar I could get more roll stiffeness w/o going with bigger tbars. So I got the 944 25.5’s.
Glad I saw them…could have been an expen$ive mistake buying them twice!
Pays to know your inventory of spares!
J. |
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H2OSB
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1533
Location: Modesto, CA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 7:30 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| DUNGBTL wrote: |
I was up in my ‘storage’ getting down the fuel lines for install and saw this…
I had forgotten I purchased a pair of 944 25.5mm tbars 6 months ago…I would have ordered SAW bars had I not seen those…I totally forgot I had those!
H2OSB and I had had previous discussions on tbar size. He had suggested 26mm because he had hit the bump stops on hard launches with 24’s (if I recall correctly). With the extra weight of the EJ25 motor he thought it would be prudent to go w/26’s. With my adjustable rear sway bar I could get more roll stiffeness w/o going with bigger tbars. So I got the 944 25.5’s.
Glad I saw them…could have been an expen$ive mistake buying them twice!
Pays to know your inventory of spares!
J. |
If you'd mentioned getting torsion bars I would said "didn't you get a set of 25.5s". Your memory is pretty good, but I had 23.5s (T3 Squareback as well as Porsche 944. IIRC 924 too, but I may be incorrect). I WANTED 25.5s due to the bump stop slamming from our discussion, but I couldn't find any I could afford. The 25.5s are from the M130 factory performance suspension upgrade package. They're pretty sought after by Porsche 944 guys, so often get snatched up quickly when a set appears on Ebay. I ended up buying a set of 26s. Only recently (perhaps within the last 3 months), I became aware there Porsche 968 had 24mm torsion bars. Glad you rediscovered your 25.5s. They should be pretty good for car with the additional weight over thd ass end.
H2OSB
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(o\_i_/o) Funny thing about pigs, they're cleaner than you and me. Well....you. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 678
Location: LA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 8:16 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Good find. I need to get some for my car but it’s pretty confusing with what size diameter and length to get for mine .someone told me 24-11/16 lengths for my year . I’ll have to check . I was also told at least 26 mm diameter and as much as 30 for the extra weight and power I’ll be making.
Are you done with the wiring? What’s next . You’re getting close for that first ride.
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.
Last edited by bruceo98 on Wed Aug 06, 2025 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2025 9:37 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
Good find. I need to get some for my car but it’s pretty confusing with what size diameter and length to get for mine .someone told me 26-11/16 lengths for my year . I’ll have to check . I was also told at least 26 mm diameter and as much as 30 for the extra weight and power I’ll be making.
Are you done with the wiring? What’s next . You’re getting close for that first ride. |
Right after H2OSB and I talked about rear tbar choices I went on EBay and just happen to find one pair of 944 M130 option 25.5mm tbars at a really good price. Bought them, were delivered, I chucked them up on the storage shelf and forgot about them!
I don’t know for fact, however I believe your WRX motor is heavier w/the turbo, intercooler…and don’t you have AC in your back seat? So that suggestion of 26-30mm tbars sounds reasonable. Perhaps 28 should be your minimum…your 26-11/16” length is slightly longer (1/8”) than a SB…for a given diameter, the torsional spring rate for longer bars is less.
Except for the final connections to all the lights, starter, reverse trans switch, fuel gage and radiator fan…things I haven’t yet installed. I believe I’m done with the wiring. The engine harness (attached to the intake mani) is ready to be plugged into the ECM harness.
Realistically, I’m probably at least a year out from engine start. My rough plan of execution currently is: fuel tank mod (in tank FI pump) and install, fuel line/EVAC install, master cylinder and brake hardline install, pedal cluster, front suspension, rear suspension, trans and shifter, rad/coolant line install, engine refresh and install, exhaust/muffler fab…probably do the interior/doors/glass while waiting for parts. Lots to do! Last time I did a full restomod like this (‘69 912) it took 5 yrs. It’s been ~3.5.
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 678
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:24 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Yeah, I'm at 3.5 years also.
I don't know what rear brake lines you are going to install but i have an extra set of new rubber ones i bought. then i bought and installed braided ones. you’re welcome to them if that's what you’re going to use.
Now i read my torsion bars are 24-11/16  Guess i'll have to remove them and measure them to make sure i get the right ones.
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I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 1:51 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
Yeah, I'm at 3.5 years also.
I don't know what rear brake lines you are going to install but i have an extra set of new rubber ones i bought. then i bought and installed braided ones. you’re welcome to them if that's what you’re going to use.
Now i read my torsion bars are 24-11/16 Guess i'll have to remove them and measure them to make sure i get the right ones. |
I’m pretty sure I’ll be using SS braided lines from the calipers to hard lines in the rear. Thank you for the offer and I’ll keep it in mind in case I don’t.
If your rear tbars are 24-11/16” that’s significantly shorter than my SB’s 26-9/16” length. For the same diameter, your bars will have a higher spring rate than mine.
J. |
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H2OSB
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1533
Location: Modesto, CA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2025 5:56 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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3.5 years for you guys?! I had to start counting in dog years for my build (well, ok, I did build a whole second car after starting the one I'm working on now).
H2OSB
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(o\_i_/o) Funny thing about pigs, they're cleaner than you and me. Well....you. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 678
Location: LA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2025 6:43 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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We're far from done so we might catch up with your dog years .
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2025 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Dead pedal…
Made a ‘dead pedal’ for spirited driving comfort. I already moved the driver’s seat from its OEM offset left position to 3/4” closer to the steering wheel centerline w/my custom seat brackets. And I’m using the ‘big foot’ clutch pedal conversion from Classic Bug Parts. A foot rest, imo, really helps w/driving comfort.
I used a 6” length of 2x2x0.125 aluminum. For a clean install, I designed some internal brackets…
I used 1” x 3/16” thick steel so that I could weld the 45 deg closed angles (which I had no way of bending) and drill and tap for blind fastener install…
Dead pedal is installed with four M5 machine screws thru the wheel well to the brackets…
Without a trans/clutch/cable, I don’t know where my clutch pedal will end up, so I taped it up in a reasonable locn for mock-up…
I didn’t final install…just mocked up. It’s being held against the wheel well by magnets on the opposite side!
I’ll wait until I get the trans/clutch installed and adjusted before I final install it. I’ll mount it ~1/2” ahead of the clutch pedal pad so that my foot can slide off the dead pedal and ‘down’ to the clutch…similar to this…
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 678
Location: LA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2025 4:21 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Good idea about the dead pedal. Not being tall (yeah I’m short) I like when I get in a car/truck to be able t put my foot on it to push back into the seat and have someplace that rest your foot on it your driving. Guess I’ll have to copy that now . You need to stop with all these good ideas or I’ll never finish my car. 
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I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2025 6:40 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Fuel System V2.0
V1.0 had a lifting pump pulling fuel from the tank, feeding a swirl pot which feeds the high pressure EFI pump which goes to the EJ25 fuel rails. The OEM tank has no sump around the fuel pickup…so swirl pot ensures the high pressure pump always has fuel…
A lot of people doing these type of engine swaps use similar systems and they appear to work just fine.
Fast forward a couple years and I’m now installing the fueling system for keeps. But then a gear-head friend of mine turns me on to ‘pump-in-sump’ systems where both the ‘lifting pump’ and the high pressure pump are submerged in fuel. Keeping them cooler and quieter. With the high pressure pump submerged, there’s no chance of fuel starvation during high g’s…this is the main reason for the sump. I had to upgrade!
First thing was to modify the OEM tank for an in-tank ‘lifting pump’ (pumps fuel out of tank into sump). I chose a universal conversion kit by FITECH…
It came with a no name pump…I upgraded to a Walbro GSS341…
I drilled a 2 1/8” hole just above the tank’s lowest spot, where the OEM fuel pick-up is… …washed out the tank of debris, and put a couple gallons of RUST 911 in it and left it to soak in the triple digit SoOregon sun for a couple days…
Clean as a whistle (whatever that means…)…
I installed the special ‘C’ flange with the pump hanger attach bolts and the supplied thick foam gasket which compresses to fill the tank’s stiffening sections to seal off the top…
Then I did something completely unnecessary…as I seem to often do…and textured the tank…
…and painted it grey in my ‘spray booth closet’…
Why you ask…because Porsche always sprayed the vintage 911 tanks with stone guard (the tank bottoms are exposed to the ground) and painted them grey! 
I had some weather stripping in stock which I cut to fit the tank mounting flange… …and chucked the tank into the car…
The pump-in-sump I ordered is a twin pump unit (I’m only installing one), 2.8L fuel capacity when using one pump (I had to purchase another Walbro GSS341)…
The sump is supplied by the fuel tank pump and has both the engine feed and return lines running to it. It has an ‘overflow’ port that constantly recycles the hotter return fuel back to the tank.
Before I ordered the sump, not knowing if it would fit in the spare tire well, I used the given dimensions and CAD to make a facsimile. I found that it should fit and play nicely with my strut tower truss…which I represented w/sticks…
I went ahead a ran the wires from the relay and ground…
The sump and assorted fittings required arrive tomorrow so I can continue the install.
I’m sure V1.0 would have worked just fine…especially with an essentially stock NA EJ25. But to me, I think V2.0 is better in that both pumps are now submerged in fuel keeping them cooler and quieter…and the install should be a tad bit tidier.
Anyone out there doing a similar Subaru swap, I’ll make a great deal on V1.0…it’s available!
J. |
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didget69
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004
Posts: 4942
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2025 2:00 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| DUNGBTL wrote: |
| BMFBMF wrote: |
| Not looking bad, I can say that for sure... |
Thanks!
Except…after looking at the pics, I didn’t like this detail…
…the USB charger mount black plastic (I used the OEM ashtray cover) doesn’t match the dash.
So I took it apart and covered it w/the same German ‘basket weave’ vinyl that I used to cover the dash, glove box door, and soon the door and quarter panel cards.
I like that much better! |
Just finding this project - Nice work!
But, the Product Designer training in me wants the ashtray to disappear &
instead have a panel created that picks up the shape of the 'sorta parallelogram' vibe of the metal that the 2 switches & the ashtray reside in...
BNC
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I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2025 6:43 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| didget69 wrote: |
Just finding this project - Nice work!
But, the Product Designer training in me wants the ashtray to disappear &
instead have a panel created that picks up the shape of the 'sorta parallelogram' vibe of the metal that the 2 switches & the ashtray reside in...
BNC |
Thanks!
Yea, I agree…that’s what most people do when filling the dash holes. I should have done that when I was welding up the padded dash vents. At the time I thought about it but decided not to. It was summer when I welded up the dash and I think I was too tired and hot (no AC in shop, temps in the upper 80’s/90’s…pretty uncomfortable welding inside the car under the dash) to continue on that area.
Not going back now! And besides…it’s my ‘Easter-egg’…every HotRod needs a skull or two!
Thanks for the reply!
J. |
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Ghia Nut
Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2003
Posts: 1567
Location: B'ham Alabama
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2025 8:03 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Love this build.
_________________
'59 typ1 rajay turbo
'72 Ghia rajay 1641 dual 36DRLAs, 1 3/8" SS merged header and fat boy
78" GL Vert with ej22t swap
This will likely change tomorrow to something else. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 537
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2025 7:14 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| Ghia Nut wrote: |
| Love this build. |
Thanks!
Meanwhile…while waiting for fittings for the fuel sump…
Made my own quarter panel ‘cards’.
Stuck some double sided tape around the panel perimeter, stuck a sheet of paper to it, then rubbed a carpenters pencil against the inset radius to capture the card shape…making a template…
I used 1/8” MDF for the ‘card’ material. I coated the inner side with fiberglass resin to weather-proof it…
Bonded Porsche ‘basket-weave’ German vinyl to it…
Instead of the typical metal clips that tend to tear out of the panel holes and are generally a pain, I used 3M Velcro to which I bonded the fuzzy side to the card then attached the mating hook side. After cleaning the interior panel w/degreaser, I peeled the adhesive backing backing paper off, positioned the card where I wanted it, and pressed it against the interior panel…
After letting the Velcro adhesive cure over night, I peeled off the card leaving the hook side stuck to the interior panel…
…with the loop side still firmly bonded to the card…
So far I’ve had the panel on and off about a dozen times w/o any hint of Velcro adhesive failure.
I like this card attachment method and will use it for the door cards…which I’ve gone ahead and made similar paper templates…
The door cards will also be covered with the basket-weave vinyl.
J. |
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