intermittent no-start

[1961tbird]

I pretty much mangled the head of it trying to remove it so it was replaced with a hex head bolt. When replacing the starter, the two remaining allen bolts took some perseverance and persuasion to get them to rotate

Any advice before I tackle these bolts. Suggestions? Recommendations? My van is a 95 with the same configuration.

[krusovice]

I finally had the time to swap my starter.

I'm pretty sure the starter has been changed before. The nose on the replacement is the same as the one I pulled, and there was the bushing already installed.

Looking at the wire from the solenoid to the starter, it looks pretty nasty.

I cleaned up the positive cable on both ends and checked the ground while I was there (looks good).

I'm pretty sure my trans and or engine have been pulled at some point, as well. The clamp going to the OEM trans cooler (heater?) has a roller clamp, and the flywheel is painted blue. Does anyone know if they are originally blue?

I'm pretty sure I need a new battery to see if my problem is solved (it was at 11.8 after sitting 3 weeks). After a charge it fires up great, so here's hoping that's all it was. Here's hoping the obvious solution is the right one.
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2001 Eurovan Camper

Sold, but not forgotten:
1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed

[1961tbird]

Pulled my starter with no problems whatsoever. All that fretting about rusty bolts, etc. over nothing. 10 minutes top.

My Bosch remanufactured starter should arrive this week. I trust it will be the same.

I will also look at my battery. Resting charge is 12.35 V. But I would be curious as to the reading under a load. I understand it shouldn't go below 10.0 V

[1961tbird]

Brown/black mystery wire solved. See link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhysyFNKk_M

[krusovice]

I had a bit more time this weekend, so back at it.

The new starter is installed, ground wire is clean and secure, power wire is clean and secure. Still, when I turn the key sometimes I just get a "click" and then nothing. If I keep trying, it will eventually start.

I put in a new, larger and stronger group 48 (H6) battery. I put it on the charger and topped it up.

Same issue. Sometimes it fires right up, other times it just clicks and I have to keep cycling the key.

I know the starter is new.
I know the battery is new, and charged.

I guess my next step is to replace the ignition switch (referenced above). Unless there's something I'm missing.

This is really annoying me. I hate throwing parts at a problem...it doesn't seem like this should be so hard.
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2001 Eurovan Camper

Sold, but not forgotten:
1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed

[krusovice]

One odd thing, I tried starting a bunch of times with the new battery (fully charged) and it didn't fire up. I put the multimeter on the battery and it only read 12.2v. It did come back to 12.5v after sitting. Maybe this is normal, but it seemed odd to me.
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2001 Eurovan Camper

Sold, but not forgotten:
1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed

[1961tbird]

Double check the positive and negative connections.

I had a similar problem. It was not the connection to the battery terminal but rather the connection from the battery lead to the battery cable itself. It was slightly loose due to a stripped nut. Went to NAPA and $4.00 later fixed the problem.

[67rustavenger]

Since this appears to be a rambling thread on the intermittent engine start issues.
I thought I'd ask my question here rather than starting a new thread.

My 03EV occasionally will not start, I turn the key and the dash lights all come on as expected however, when attempting to start the engine it will not crank. There's no clicking from the starter.
The battery is a 4year old Interstate model and when the engine does crank the battery is strong and cranks the engine over fast.
The no start issue usually occurs in the morning.
I found that if, I hold the key in the start position after a few seconds the starter will crank and the engine will start.

Checking the wire connections to the starter I find they are clean and the connectors are well seated on the terminals.

So, I believe the electrical portion of the starter switch may be the issue and want to buy one as a spare, just in case.
Who makes a good quality ignition switch for the EV's?
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[krusovice]

I've checked these connections and they seem fine. Maybe I'll replace it just to be safe....I might even have one at home.

[1961tbird]

4 years ago we were in Yellowstone when my ignition switch started acting up. So now I carry a spare.

I was able to buy an OEM from a VW dealer.

[1961tbird]

krdsovice:

Does the van start if you run a jumper wire from the starter solenoid directly to the positive terminal of the battery?

[krusovice]

I haven’t tried this. I’m nervous to do it unsupervised. Though I have seen “remote starter switches.” I may pick up one of those. I’m not sir what gauge wire to use, and I wonder if I can go to any of the terminals on the solenoid (though the wire only goes to one).

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/remote-control-starter-switch-gearwrench-124

I even wonder if that could be carried as an emergency tool in case the ignition fails.

[67rustavenger]

[krusovice]

Thanks for the pep-talk. I jumped it and it fires right up. (Well, turning the key does it often as well…).

Ignition switch is shipped.
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2001 Eurovan Camper

Sold, but not forgotten:
1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed

[67rustavenger]

[krusovice]

I added to my road tool kit the test leads and long needle-nose pliers that I used to reach the starter. Knowing I can force the start makes me feel better.

I'd feel EVEN better making it work right...so I'll keep at that.

[rocknroj]

One simple test for starter and battery condition is to connect a voltmeter to the battery and watch what happens when you operate the starter. The drop in voltage will tell you a lot.

All The connecting surfaces should be clean and shiny.. I use sandpaper. When done some dialectic grease to protect your work. Also the wires can fray and partially break where they mate to the connectors. Then they cannot conduct the required amperage and need a redo.

Had the intermittent start on mine and turned out to be the ignition switch.. The connection gets corroded over time, generates heat and eventually fails. Was lucky that I had some tools with me when it went totally kaput.

When you take the old switch out it the problem should be quite visible and you can feel confident that you found the gremlin.

Hopefully you replaced that bushing when you put in the new starter. They do wear and cause issues with engagement and overrun. Think I replaced a perfectly good starter a few years ago when the problem was only a poorly installed bushing.

[krusovice]

Interesting. I didn’t replace the bushing (but I kept it). The ignition is waiting for me at home. I’ll install that and see how things go.

I’m pretty sure I’m getting a decent voltage drop but I’ve cleaned everything very well. Hopefully the ignition solves it.

(I do feel better knowing how to jumper the solenoid just in case.)
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2001 Eurovan Camper

Sold, but not forgotten:
1984 Vanagon 1.9/4 speed

[SambaBurnsRed]

Not a bad idea to replace wear item parts in any case, if age or mileage is up there.

The kids want to take the EV on some longer trips so I am mulling over breakdown-proofing. Had a close call with the CPS, lucky it died on short drive and I was able to fix in a day or so. I bought a battery tester from Amazon, cheap.. it's been good at detecting marginal batteries. PS: The size of the battery relates to capacity, not voltage. If you want better punch you have to go AGM or even Lithium = solid 13V

Here's a list of dealbreakers:

Crank Sensor (CPS)*
MAF (?)
Fuel Filter*
Fuel Pump
Key Transponder circuit
Key Switch
Rad/fans/pump/hoses/belt*
Batteries (engine/house)*

* New parts on our EV

Notes: The key transponder will prevent a start. I think that has happened a few times on ours. IDK if there is an indicator; I didn't see one.

I wonder about the fuel pump. I called the shop on our service record and they only replace if failed, which doesn't help if you are way out somewhere.
At least if the filter is new, it doesn't have to work so hard. Keep the tank from going dead empty to prevent jamming it.

[Joshwa]

I would suggest either buying two switches or keeping your old working one as a spare after replacing it. They are failure prone, but easy to replace, and don't cost very much.
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93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93