Rim overhaul

[BMFBMF]

Hi folks, my Mabor/general tires were from the Mozambique factory And date from the year 2000 from when the car still lived in South Africa.

They are amazing tires and still show no sign of cracking but I am very aware of their reduced grip because of their age.

I am slowly starting to think about a new set, but I wondering what I should do with regards to the rims. Over the years at least twice I've wire brushed the outside and repainted them in silver and they still look great.
When I get the new tires, I plan to take the old wheels to the dealer and remove the old tires and then bring the rims back home for inspection. I can then see if there's any rust or any other problems.

Has anyone else been through this, what advice is there with regards to treating the inside of the rims, or just leave good enough alone?

Does anyone know what kind of treatment was applied to the inside originally?

It's a 71 but in South Africa they were still using the five bolt pattern, so that's what I have.
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[Bobs67vwagen]

The insides of the rim were painted although not very well I have found over the years. If they are rusted inside it's a good idea to sand. Treat the rust, and then paint with either spray can or brush on. Pay close attention to where the bead is on the rim. This is where a tubeless tire seals. I have had to bondo some of these to make it smooth enough to seal the tire. Good luck-Bob

[goober]

I can tell you what I do.

Where the bead sits up against the rim is most important. It should be smooth on the rim flat surface and side lip.

I scrape any loose rust and scale away with an old knife. I then file the surfaces as smooth and evenly as possible.

By hand I continue using sandpaper followed by steel wool then a coat of aluminum paint.

Any remaining blemishes are usually not a problem. Unless the rims are in really bad shape they should seal. I break any sharp edges around the stem hole and use good quality new stems. I do this every time I need tires.

I also mount my own tires. For the tire balance dots and rim placement I check Google for the latest info. I go slow, it takes me several days. But I get the job I want.

When mounted, I put 20 psi in each tire and take the 4 tires to my local Farm & Fleet and have them balanced. Over the decades I've never had a bad balance job from them.

IMO, trouble-free tire life, mounting and driving starts with good rims.

[pondoras box]

Powder coat them and never have to deal with it again.

The big thing that everyone will say is that’s it soft and will cause your lug bolts to loosen and lose a wheel. Just tell your power coat guy to not put any powder on the beveled surface where the bolt and rim seat together. You can mask and paint this area after the wheels are done, problem solved.

I have done several sets like this without any issues. The only set I still own is a set for water cooled rabbit. But no one has called and told me the wheels fell off their car either.

Finding a powder coating shop that will do small jobs can be an issue sometimes.

If you do decide to paint them use automotive paint with a hardening agent in it. You can get these put into spray paint style cans if you don’t have a compressor and and facility to paint. Another alternative to this is use regular spray paint and then coat with a clear with hardener in it. I’ve done this with excellent results. Look at my bus thread and find the belly pan and front inner wheelhouse pics. I used a product called 2K it’s in a spray can and you mix it and use it right in the can no mess or additional supplies needed.

Post pics of your results so we can enjoy them too!
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Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.

1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop (Arschloch)
1973 standard bug (Dirty Gertie)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion

[BMFBMF]

Thanks for the input folks, living in the highveld in South Africa. There's no salt and no rain so I expect them to be in good Nick but will share photos when I get there. Probably this winter. Main thing putting me off is the shocking price of new tires. Eeep!
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[jinx758]

@ BMFBMF ...

EEEP is rite !
Yesterday the wife & I were at a nation-wide tire place putting 2 tires on her "new" 12yr old vehicle.

Just for grins I asked how much a 185 series would cost.

$369.00 - before tax, mounting, & balancing
At least they were Michelins but no M&S rating. Used to get them out the door for $56 back in the 90s for my '74.

Almost needed to borrow her inhaler ... stay safe

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[beetle08]

This is how I did mine: powder coated the wheels black (masked off the lug nut seats), than painted the faces with WURTH wheel silver, and clear coat.

Good luck!
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1973 VW 1303 GSR
1973 VW Jeans Beetle
1991 Porsche 964 Carrera 2

IG: 3pedalposse

[bugger-off]

[viiking]

[Bobs67vwagen]

My new 1970 diamond blue bug with leatherette, am radio, and tapered tailpipes was $1839 US plus tax. My dad and I paid cash and drove it off the lot . What a great feeling and boy how times have changed.

[bomberbob]

Does anyone have issues with rust in the "crack" where the wheel pieces meet? When I had my wheels sandblasted and powder coated, the shop that did it said that powder coat doesn't want to go down in that crack, so its prone to rust later. He suggested putting clear RTV down in the crack. I laid the wheels down and using a syringe squirted clear down in the crack. That way I was able to get it to run and flow all the way around. Have not had any rust appear.
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1968 Beetle torn apart again
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in storage)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[Bobs67vwagen]

I use a dental tool on that seam followed by sandpaper pressed in there, cleaned and then paint.