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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52460
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 Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2025 4:01 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| If you have a two hose vacuum can, you may want to move the drive one tooth to get additional room to move the distributor, while the single hose vacuum cans are less at to bump into anything. Can't see exactly what you are up against from here though. |
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LordHuron95
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Joined: April 20, 2021
Posts: 143
Location: California
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2025 4:56 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| If you have a two hose vacuum can, you may want to move the drive one tooth to get additional room to move the distributor, while the single hose vacuum cans are less at to bump into anything. Can't see exactly what you are up against from here though. |
I’ll need to get an image when I get home tonight. When rotating the distributor CCW, the vacuum nipple/hose makes contact with the engine block. Specifically the “block” or cube-ish area that the oil breather is located on.
My original intention was to do what you’re suggesting. Moving a single tooth in order to move my “window” of available timing. In order to give the vacuum nipple more clearance, I would move the drive gear a single tooth clockwise, correct?
_________________
Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal.
-1980 Vanagon Westy |
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2025 6:15 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
My original intention was to do what you’re suggesting. Moving a single tooth in order to move my “window” of available timing. In order to give the vacuum nipple more clearance, I would move the drive gear a single tooth clockwise, correct? |
Most likely yes, just one tooth, but a picture would be nice. |
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LordHuron95
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Location: California
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 9:17 am Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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First image shows position of the drive gear at TDC. As far as I can tell it is within the range the book says to install it at. If it is say on a clockface, 11-6 in my image, and you’re saying to rotate it by one tooth CW, so in the direction of 12-7, yes?
Second image shows where exactly the vacuum can is making contact
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Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal.
-1980 Vanagon Westy |
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 1:28 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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[quote="LordHuron95"]First image shows position of the drive gear at TDC. As far as I can tell it is within the range the book says to install it at. If it is say on a clockface, 11-6 in my image, and you’re saying to rotate it by one tooth CW, so in the direction of 12-7, yes?
My guess is your distributor is built with an incorrect part or two. Just rotate the drive maybe one or two teeth either way and see how that works.
Here are a few pictures from the gallery:
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LordHuron95
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 3:35 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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I’d guess that you’re right. Or it’s sourced from something else. It’s the distributor that the PO had in in, and I drove the van for years with it in so at the least, it does work.
I rotated the drive gear I think one tooth CW. Sounded more like it wanted to run, and did if I was actively giving it gas. Though the moment I lifted my foot, it died.
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Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal.
-1980 Vanagon Westy |
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 8:33 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
| I’d guess that you’re right. Or it’s sourced from something else. It’s the distributor that the PO had in in, and I drove the van for years with it in so at the least, it does work. |
This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
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LordHuron95
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| Posted: Yesterday 10:18 am Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
If I could I would. I'm just lost as to why it wont run now.
As for the vacuum can on my distributor, everything looks the same as the ones in your pictures, just mine has the hose nipple on the bottom instead of the top. I domt imagine theres a way to rotate the can, is there?
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Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal.
-1980 Vanagon Westy |
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Yesterday 10:54 am Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
As for the vacuum can on my distributor, everything looks the same as the ones in your pictures, just mine has the hose nipple on the bottom instead of the top. I domt imagine theres a way to rotate the can, is there? |
I am sure it's just a can that was designed for some other application. Whether it is specced correctly for a Vanagon I don't know,which is why you want to take it out of the equation when setting the timing.
I would dump some FI cleaner into your tank and then if you can get it running run if for long enough to clear the cylinders of built up fuel before dropping the revs to idle speed. To get it started you could disconnect the trigger wire for the ICU from the coil (and maybe disconnect the plug from the Cold Start Valve as well) and then crank the engine for 30 seconds or so to clear the cylinders. |
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LordHuron95
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| Posted: Yesterday 7:50 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
Got it running. All I did was add a couple gallons to the tank, reply the head temp sensor and ot still didnt wanna run. Babied the gas and eventually it reluctantly idled on it's own. Adjusted timing and it idled like it did before. 
Anyways, was gonna try setting timing as you describe above. Just seems like I'm gonna have to advance it a lot. What am I trying to figure out by setting timing as you say?
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Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Yesterday 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
Got it running. All I did was add a couple gallons to the tank, reply the head temp sensor and ot still didnt wanna run. Babied the gas and eventually it reluctantly idled on it's own. Adjusted timing and it idled like it did before.
Anyways, was gonna try setting timing as you describe above. Just seems like I'm gonna have to advance it a lot. What am I trying to figure out by setting timing as you say? |
You are just duplicating the factory high rpm full throttle timing spec, and eliminating or lessening problems caused by incorrect or worn parts. You don't drive your vehicle at idle rpms so why time it there? FWIW the original Type 4 timing spec would have been 27° BTDC @3800+ rpm, hose(s) removed from the vacuum canister and plug.
Timing is elevation dependent, so what altitude are you living and driving at? |
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Nitramrebrab72
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Joined: November 10, 2018
Posts: 900
Location: France
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| Posted: Today 4:50 am Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
Got it running. All I did was add a couple gallons to the tank, reply the head temp sensor and ot still didnt wanna run. Babied the gas and eventually it reluctantly idled on it's own. Adjusted timing and it idled like it did before.
Anyways, was gonna try setting timing as you describe above. Just seems like I'm gonna have to advance it a lot. What am I trying to figure out by setting timing as you say? |
Vanagon L-jetronic engines will not start without at least 1/3 full tank after an engine rebuild, or any other engine maintenance that will allow the fuel to fully evaporate from the fuel pump and /or lines. |
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Nitramrebrab72
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Joined: November 10, 2018
Posts: 900
Location: France
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| Posted: Today 5:33 am Post subject: Re: 1980 Cali Westy starting issues |
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| LordHuron95 wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| This is why I strongly recommend setting the timing at 28° BTDC @3800 rpms with both hoses removed from the vacuum can and plugged. If you have a Digital Idle Stabilizer it also needs to be bypassed. This way you will at least have the correct timing when the peddle is hard to the floor and the revs are high. |
Got it running. All I did was add a couple gallons to the tank, reply the head temp sensor and ot still didnt wanna run. Babied the gas and eventually it reluctantly idled on it's own. Adjusted timing and it idled like it did before.
Anyways, was gonna try setting timing as you describe above. Just seems like I'm gonna have to advance it a lot. What am I trying to figure out by setting timing as you say? |
The L-Jetronic can take a while to show any signs of starting with empty fuel lines, the fuel pump only receives a 12volt supply when the engine is being cranked. Even though it has a return loop fuel circuit it only goes to the injector feed lines and those pockets of air arn't instantaneously pushed down and through the injector nozzle tips it can take a short while.
Manually opening the AFM flap for 2 mins will make it easier( Important!!! you must have at least 1/3 tank of fuel when a fully dry pump and/or fuel lines are involved and be parked on a flat area )
Maybe most important thing to bear in mind is that the fuel injection pump is not designed to suck air and therefore requires a gravity feed on first start up (dry fuel lines and pump). In other words you need the fuel level in the tank to be higher than the fuel pump for the first start. As fuel the tank sits quite low ,bows down quite low and the fuel pump is higher it is advisable to have the tank at least 1/3 full, 1/2 to be sure , opening the bleed niple/fuel pressure gauge port on the left injector bank to release air trapped out, so fuel can gravity feed into the pump and take it's place is a plus.
Don't forget to tighten back up before starting ..
Once the circuit is fully primed there is a non return valve in the fuel pump that keeps the pump emerged in fuel even if you go to empty and will start with less than a gallon of fuel in this case....
Not after a rebuild though, as there is a good chance the fuel has been able to drain and/or evaporate from the pump and fuel circuit through open fuel lines... |
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