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Mikenbiken
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2025 1:16 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

BFB wrote:
OP, have you taken it out and driven it where you plan to play yet or just kicking ideas around? only reason I ask that is because its definitely easy to go down a '
building it better' rabbit hole when you may not need what you think you need then your a year and half into building shit, havent driven it, get bored and sell it. ive seen this happen alot and actually gotten really good deals from guys in that situation.

sure you could 930's with stock arms but its kind of overkill not to mention that if you change the stock arms out for 3x3's later on then you'll need longer axles. the 930's really aren't needed until you get into at least 3x3's. but even then theres alot of guys that just run T2 cv's.

yes your shorter torsion bars will allow clearance for larger tires, but you'll need the spring plates for the short torsion bars if yours are for the longer ones. also the shorter ones dont twist as much, ive read.
other thing is tire weight beyond a 30" , never experienced it ( knock on wood ) but have seen several posts where guys have broken stub axles because the weight of the larger rear tires & wheels, aside from killing low end as was previously mentioned.

if you do want more travel and consider 3x3's then plan on going coilover, dont waste your time trying 3x3's with torsion bars, it sucks. I and many other people have tried it and it can work , sure, but the time & effort spent jacking with the right size bar and the preload will drive you crazy then once you get it dialed in where your happy, they settle in and you have to do it all over. not to mention you cant get the same travel..


Without writing a very long post about the build of my car, my life for the past few years, and what my plans for the car are in the future. I'll say this. I built the car for Orange County/LA city streets with the occasional dirt roads in the desert. I never intended for the car to be a serious off road weapon. Mainly because I wanted the car to be nice and have a nice interior without a cage and not butchered. Then I moved to Utah. Now I see i either want to sell the car and build/buy something can beat the shit out of, or make this car a bit more off road capable.

Having driven the car less than 2K miles, I feel it needs the rear raised a bit no matter what I use it for. It has a fairly pronounced understeer. It had OE spring plates (not notched) and OE torsion bars. They were already heavily preloaded and sagged. I'm not a fan of over preloading soft springs. Results in harsh ride over small bumps and blows through the travel on big bumps. I want the opposite of that. So, I bought 26mm torsion bars and adjustable spring plates that I notched 1/4". As I went to install the new stuff, I decided to check the axle angle at full droop resting on the stops before I had changed anything. My recollection is it was about 16-17 degrees. So I already felt I needed to change the CVs to something more appropriate. I came on here to ask if there was an easy bolt on solution. I was looking to see what I could get that would work fine now, and also still be fine if I decided to raise it more in the future. I'm unsure if I will sell the car, or decide I'm OK with tearing it up and then go more aggressive on the build. It's just a pretty car at the moment. That's why I am trying to future proof my purchases to the extent possible. Didn't realize the pandora's box I was opening. I have no problem admitting there is a lot I don't know about these cars.

I'm thinking that kit from Kaddie Shack may be the ticket. Under $700 and they rate it to 17 degrees but claim they have run 22degrees without issue. Chances are, the axles will rarely see 17 degrees.

I have some brain damage from a motorcycle accident in the 90s (wish i was joking), so I apologize if this doesn't make much sense. I have a hard time keeping my thoughts straight on long posts. Also, honestly makes the resaerch process more difficult.

Here are some pics of my car
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Schepp
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2025 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

Mike,
These cars are the definition of pandoras box. You cant do one thing without three other things being effected in the process.

Your car is too nice to start beating on. I honestly see nothing wrong with its current ride height. If all you're going to do is mostly street and cruising around some fire roads. Its fine the way it is. You need to get out and spend some time in the dirt and see how it does before you start doing more to it.

Check out indianpeaksjoe and his baja. He's in Moab and drives his car off road all the time and it does great. The big rear tires aren't doing the freeway flier trans any favors either.
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BFB
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2025 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

About every thread in this place is a Pandora’s box ! Hahaha!

Mikenbiken i think you did a fine job explaining and thats what most of the ppl on here will want 1 , to be able to give you their most accurate option of what you should do with your vehicle and life and 2 so that we cant partly live vicariously though someone else’s vw life.
That is a nice looking Baja if i were you and wanted to beat the hell out of one, id sell that one ( or keep it ) and get a different one to play in. Im in the same boat, my main rail is too nice and wife likes it too much for me to beat the hell out of it so i got another one that fits the bill better.
Also, i got a buddy that smacked his noggin in a bike accident, (i think he died for a little bit too ) he claims he got brain damage but I think its just his excuse because he was a fucked up individual before the bike wreck. Whatever works for him , but i know better! Ha
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2025 6:40 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

Are the parts all on the car ready to roll as it sits? Jack up the rear so the tires are off the ground. Spin tires listening/feeling for the cvs to click. Nothing? At full droop do the axles still slide in/out of the cvs? If the they do, you might be ok for a while.
Appletree auto may sell the same parts. My 3x3 kit came ftom them.
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Mikenbiken
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 7:50 am    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

Schepp wrote:
Mike,
These cars are the definition of pandoras box. You cant do one thing without three other things being effected in the process.

Your car is too nice to start beating on. I honestly see nothing wrong with its current ride height. If all you're going to do is mostly street and cruising around some fire roads. Its fine the way it is. You need to get out and spend some time in the dirt and see how it does before you start doing more to it.

Check out indianpeaksjoe and his baja. He's in Moab and drives his car off road all the time and it does great. The big rear tires aren't doing the freeway flier trans any favors either.


I don't know yet what gear ratios I'll want. The 2332 has enough torque to pull the top gear just fine, but the 3-4 jump creates an RPM no man's land that I feel I want to be in. Another thing I need to come up to speed on before making any changes Laughing

BFB wrote:
About every thread in this place is a Pandora’s box ! Hahaha!

Mikenbiken i think you did a fine job explaining and thats what most of the ppl on here will want 1 , to be able to give you their most accurate option of what you should do with your vehicle and life and 2 so that we cant partly live vicariously though someone else’s vw life.
That is a nice looking Baja if i were you and wanted to beat the hell out of one, id sell that one ( or keep it ) and get a different one to play in. Im in the same boat, my main rail is too nice and wife likes it too much for me to beat the hell out of it so i got another one that fits the bill better.
Also, i got a buddy that smacked his noggin in a bike accident, (i think he died for a little bit too ) he claims he got brain damage but I think its just his excuse because he was a fucked up individual before the bike wreck. Whatever works for him , but i know better! Ha


I tend to be scarce on details because it's hard to get what's in my head typed out. I am buying a beater high clearance Jeep for crawling up some of the gnarly stuff here. Maybe that will satisfy my need to bash around. My problem is I am a speed guy. I have raced Motorcycles, DH Mountain Bike, and cars for many years at the expert level. I always want to haul ass. No matter what it is. I just have a hard time doing it if I think I'm tearing something to bits in the process. The machine needs to be up to the task. That's funny about your friend. I know I am a different person since 12/31/1995. I came out of that with no short term memory recall at all for close to a year not to mention 4 broken vertebrae, broken sternum, both collarbones broken, multiple ribs broken/separated, badly broken wrist etc etc), and a different personality. Now it manifests itself more in memory issues. I start writing a lot of posts and stop once I realize I have no idea if it's making any sense and I don't have the patience to start over. No regrets though. And like your friend, I was also fucked up before Laughing
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

Mikenbiken wrote:
Schepp wrote:
I’ll leave you with this because I’m a decent person. For a good performing rear setup that’s not going to require tons of cash. Go the type-2 route. 100mm cvs is all you’ll need with stock arms.
If you’re looking to gain some down travel you’ll need to address the lower hard stop. Either notch your plates or cut off the stop completely and use a limit strap. This is the route I went with. I’m at just over 8” of usable wheel travel with a 10” shock. My cvs are strapped at 17 degrees.
You’ll need to beef up the stock arms if you’re going to do any sort of high speed excitement. That opens another can of worms. Because the lower shock mount gets removed.
Check out my pics for reference.


Thanks. I currently have stock arms, sway a way adjustable plates that are notched 1/4" with 21 3/4" SAW 26mm torsion bars. I went 21 3/4" because once again, i don't know if I'll want a bigger tire in the future or not, and clearance to the caps was starting to get close. I also made inserts to fill that 1/4" notch if it turns out i am topping out with the shock before that hits (shocks are Bilstein and i don't know what the eye to eye or stroke length is). I don't plan drive this car too aggressive, but I don't know what height I will want yet. I am in fact finding mode at the moment. Trying to figure out what CVs/axles etc will best suite my needs before tearing things down so down time will be minimal. Oh yeah, the car has a 2332 motor with a stock trans geared as a "freeway flyer" which I will likely change the gearing at some point. The trans was rebuilt that way just before i bought the car.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10081574&highlight=#10081574

Already informed you to notch 3/16 two years ago 1/4 is way to much.

You need to be at 3K RPM on the highway to cool properly it will burn up fast otherwise. The freeway flyer is a gimmick to start with then big tires Yikes No Bueno.
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Mikenbiken
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

DesertSasquatchXploration wrote:
Mikenbiken wrote:
Schepp wrote:
I’ll leave you with this because I’m a decent person. For a good performing rear setup that’s not going to require tons of cash. Go the type-2 route. 100mm cvs is all you’ll need with stock arms.
If you’re looking to gain some down travel you’ll need to address the lower hard stop. Either notch your plates or cut off the stop completely and use a limit strap. This is the route I went with. I’m at just over 8” of usable wheel travel with a 10” shock. My cvs are strapped at 17 degrees.
You’ll need to beef up the stock arms if you’re going to do any sort of high speed excitement. That opens another can of worms. Because the lower shock mount gets removed.
Check out my pics for reference.


Thanks. I currently have stock arms, sway a way adjustable plates that are notched 1/4" with 21 3/4" SAW 26mm torsion bars. I went 21 3/4" because once again, i don't know if I'll want a bigger tire in the future or not, and clearance to the caps was starting to get close. I also made inserts to fill that 1/4" notch if it turns out i am topping out with the shock before that hits (shocks are Bilstein and i don't know what the eye to eye or stroke length is). I don't plan drive this car too aggressive, but I don't know what height I will want yet. I am in fact finding mode at the moment. Trying to figure out what CVs/axles etc will best suite my needs before tearing things down so down time will be minimal. Oh yeah, the car has a 2332 motor with a stock trans geared as a "freeway flyer" which I will likely change the gearing at some point. The trans was rebuilt that way just before i bought the car.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10081574&highlight=#10081574

Already informed you to notch 3/16 two years ago 1/4 is way to much.

You need to be at 3K RPM on the highway to cool properly it will burn up fast otherwise. The freeway flyer is a gimmick to start with then big tires Yikes No Bueno.


Ha ha. I have no recollection of that. I did notch them 1/4" with the plan to use shims I designed to get it exactly where I want it. That's the spacers I'm referring to in the above post. I'll post pics when I'm done.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

alot of times people are in such a hurry to post and impart their great wisdom they dont even take the time to read & understand what their responding to any how, so I say post what you write whether it makes sense or not. some ppl will get it, some wont whether it makes sense or not. fuck 'em , be you.
Ive probably had at least 20 vehicle accidents, put 4 on their roofs. 2 1/2 years ago I T boned a guy that pulled out in front of me, hit him hard enough it flipped his car into the light pole and caved his roof in, enough so that they pulled him out the windshield. my airbag didnt go off, I hit the steering wheel. they said I broke 9 ribs, how many breaks though I dont know but when id breath it sounded like popcorn popping. they thought I had a heart attack but turned out it was just that my heart had impacted my sternum. I had a few other issues and some internal bleeding blah blah blah. that was actually the hardest ive been hit so far in my life and my personality changed with that one. and thats not solely my personal opinion, ive been told it many times and I think its odd how it can happen even without head trauma. most of the ppl on here think im an asshole but im actually way more calm now and give no fucks..... that sidetracked more than I intended but said all that to say, just post what you write. the people that give a shit will sort it out and to hell with others that wont, life too short to rewrite shit
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.
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BFB
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

DesertSasquatchXploration wrote:
Mikenbiken wrote:
Schepp wrote:
I’ll leave you with this because I’m a decent person. For a good performing rear setup that’s not going to require tons of cash. Go the type-2 route. 100mm cvs is all you’ll need with stock arms.
If you’re looking to gain some down travel you’ll need to address the lower hard stop. Either notch your plates or cut off the stop completely and use a limit strap. This is the route I went with. I’m at just over 8” of usable wheel travel with a 10” shock. My cvs are strapped at 17 degrees.
You’ll need to beef up the stock arms if you’re going to do any sort of high speed excitement. That opens another can of worms. Because the lower shock mount gets removed.
Check out my pics for reference.


Thanks. I currently have stock arms, sway a way adjustable plates that are notched 1/4" with 21 3/4" SAW 26mm torsion bars. I went 21 3/4" because once again, i don't know if I'll want a bigger tire in the future or not, and clearance to the caps was starting to get close. I also made inserts to fill that 1/4" notch if it turns out i am topping out with the shock before that hits (shocks are Bilstein and i don't know what the eye to eye or stroke length is). I don't plan drive this car too aggressive, but I don't know what height I will want yet. I am in fact finding mode at the moment. Trying to figure out what CVs/axles etc will best suite my needs before tearing things down so down time will be minimal. Oh yeah, the car has a 2332 motor with a stock trans geared as a "freeway flyer" which I will likely change the gearing at some point. The trans was rebuilt that way just before i bought the car.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10081574&highlight=#10081574

Already informed you to notch 3/16 two years ago 1/4 is way to much.

You need to be at 3K RPM on the highway to cool properly it will burn up fast otherwise. The freeway flyer is a gimmick to start with then big tires Yikes No Bueno.


horse shit, that thing aint going to burn up if its turning under 3k especially not considering its a Baja thats more open than a stock beetle.
and god forbid someone doesnt follow your instructions, you say im a narcissist ...
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.
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Mikenbiken
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

BFB wrote:
alot of times people are in such a hurry to post and impart their great wisdom they dont even take the time to read & understand what their responding to any how, so I say post what you write whether it makes sense or not. some ppl will get it, some wont whether it makes sense or not. fuck 'em , be you.
Ive probably had at least 20 vehicle accidents, put 4 on their roofs. 2 1/2 years ago I T boned a guy that pulled out in front of me, hit him hard enough it flipped his car into the light pole and caved his roof in, enough so that they pulled him out the windshield. my airbag didnt go off, I hit the steering wheel. they said I broke 9 ribs, how many breaks though I dont know but when id breath it sounded like popcorn popping. they thought I had a heart attack but turned out it was just that my heart had impacted my sternum. I had a few other issues and some internal bleeding blah blah blah. that was actually the hardest ive been hit so far in my life and my personality changed with that one. and thats not solely my personal opinion, ive been told it many times and I think its odd how it can happen even without head trauma. most of the ppl on here think im an asshole but im actually way more calm now and give no fucks..... that sidetracked more than I intended but said all that to say, just post what you write. the people that give a shit will sort it out and to hell with others that wont, life too short to rewrite shit


Well said sir!
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Schepp
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2025 7:42 am    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

DesertSasquatchXploration wrote:


Already informed you to notch 3/16 two years ago 1/4 is way to much.

You need to be at 3K RPM on the highway to cool properly it will burn up fast otherwise. The freeway flyer is a gimmick to start with then big tires Yikes No Bueno.


While 1/4' may be a bit much, he's not going to drive the thing hard enough to break the spring plate anyways.

While the FF-trans and big tires are making the engine work harder than need be. There's no way he'll kill that engine unless he's frequently going up steep grades bogging it in 4th when its hot out. Flat cruising on the hwy? I don't buy it.


Mike,
I'm no trans expert but I just went through selecting a new unit. Benco built mine (A+ experience). A "pro-street" style setup would suit your application better. Ditch that taller 4th with lower R/P ratio (4.12 or 4.37?) would make it a rocket ship with that spicy engine and still have a good highway rpm. 1st gear acts like a jeep 4-low offroad giving you tons of torque down low. Perfect for driving steep hills both up and down. 4th for me sits at 3200prm @ 65mph with 28-inch tall tires. With those larger tires, you would probably cruise 70mph at 3000rpm. I'm not sure about the Freeway Flier but the Pro-street comes with a limited-slip diff as well.
Combined with the larger cv joints you would have a solid rig in my opinion.
If its in good shape, you could likely sell that freeway filer back to a builder for a good discount on a new unit.

My setup and application is a lot different than yours.

I apologize for my comment early on. After re-reading it again, I did over-read your post and jumped the gun.
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Mikenbiken
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2025 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: CVs Reply with quote

Schepp wrote:
DesertSasquatchXploration wrote:


Already informed you to notch 3/16 two years ago 1/4 is way to much.

You need to be at 3K RPM on the highway to cool properly it will burn up fast otherwise. The freeway flyer is a gimmick to start with then big tires Yikes No Bueno.


While 1/4' may be a bit much, he's not going to drive the thing hard enough to break the spring plate anyways.

While the FF-trans and big tires are making the engine work harder than need be. There's no way he'll kill that engine unless he's frequently going up steep grades bogging it in 4th when its hot out. Flat cruising on the hwy? I don't buy it.


Mike,
I'm no trans expert but I just went through selecting a new unit. Benco built mine (A+ experience). A "pro-street" style setup would suit your application better. Ditch that taller 4th with lower R/P ratio (4.12 or 4.37?) would make it a rocket ship with that spicy engine and still have a good highway rpm. 1st gear acts like a jeep 4-low offroad giving you tons of torque down low. Perfect for driving steep hills both up and down. 4th for me sits at 3200prm @ 65mph with 28-inch tall tires. With those larger tires, you would probably cruise 70mph at 3000rpm. I'm not sure about the Freeway Flier but the Pro-street comes with a limited-slip diff as well.
Combined with the larger cv joints you would have a solid rig in my opinion.
If its in good shape, you could likely sell that freeway filer back to a builder for a good discount on a new unit.

My setup and application is a lot different than yours.

I apologize for my comment early on. After re-reading it again, I did over-read your post and jumped the gun.


Thanks! Good info. And I also apologize if I came across the wrong way. It's hard to read emotions and intentions from text.
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