The DUNGBTL Build

[hulbyw]

Nice work. Another question though. Why the visible screws to mount the panels rather than using the original style concealed clips? Is it to match in with the screws mounting the instrument panel by any chance?

[H2OSB]

[DUNGBTL]

[bruceo98]

Nice work as usual. You’re getting it done. Wish I could say the same .
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.

[DUNGBTL]

[DUNGBTL]

Foot wells upholstered.

I thought it would be easier to ‘carpet’ the footwells before installing the pedal cluster. I used Perlon carpet which Porsche (and other German manufactures) typically used as frunk carpet in earlier 911s. However, they also used it in their vintage factory race cars, and RS Carreras as interior carpet. It’s very light weight…somewhat like felt.

Made simple paper templates of the footwell areas…

Used 3M headliner adhesive. I have found this to be very easy to use and so far has excellent adhesion. I also used this on the Perlon headliner I installed (an earlier post probably many pages ago)…

Because I chose not to use edge binding, I overlapped the pieces…the very thin felt-like nap allowed the edges to somewhat blend together…

I installed my ‘dead pedal’ (how I made it posted earlier) starting with locating the brackets and bonding some ACE hardware 1/16” rubber matting to the footwell to protect the carpet from foot scrapes…

Seam-sealed and undercoated the dead-pedal backup doublers to prevent moisture seeping into the interior…

I masked around the templates before spraying the adhesive to prevent over spray…

Finished!

J.

[bruceo98]

That carpet seems to go around bends and turns nice. looking good.
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.

[vamram]

The footwell looks great. Where did you source the roll of perlon? I've been searching and so far only find sets pre-cut for Porches.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...we hardly knew ye. Sold 2025 for peanuts.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[jeffrey8164]

[DUNGBTL]

Thanks!

Perlon is thin and does lay down nicely and conforms well to curves. I used it for the headliner and with a heat gun set on low I was able to lay it in the corner curvatures w/out puckers. Watch out with the heat gun as it’s polyester and will melt! Also, as a thin, felt-like material it can get saturated with liquid adhesive and bleed thru more easily…use bush-on adhesive sparely.

J.

[vamram]

Are you using Perlon for the rest of the floor?
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...we hardly knew ye. Sold 2025 for peanuts.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[DUNGBTL]

[bruceo98]

I was thinking about doing the same thing on the passenger foot rest as my fuse box will be going behind there. I'll put it on hinges to be able to service the fuse panel and put Dzus tabs on it at the top.
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.

[DUNGBTL]

Installed the pedal cluster.

Install was a bit tricky than normal in that I’m using a pedal actuated brake light switch. Its bracket connects to the rearward cluster bolt. To adjust it against the brake pedal, that bolt has to be loose enough to pivot said bracket so that the switch is depressed when pedal is up.

What I found is that to set the brake pedal travel range and actuator rod clearance to the factory spec, both the cluster bolts must be fairly tight as these distances are different when either fully tight or loose.

So, it was somewhat tedious setting the proper pedal distances whilst also setting the proper brake switch actuation position.

Factory manual says 200mm distance from pedal to firewall with a 1mm clearance btwn the brake actuator rod and master cylinder piston (cup)…

…which corresponds to 5-7mm pedal freeplay…

So I got out my vintage factory VW brake pedal calibration tool and set it in place…

Backed out the actuation rod from the master and set the pedal stop to where the brake pedal was 200mm from ‘floor’…

I took the ‘floor’ location as where the pedal would hit if not connected to the master…so, about where the clutch pedal is.

Then I adjusted the actuation rod into the master until I had 1mm clearance w/the piston and 5-7mm of pedal freeplay. The second tape stripe on the factory calibration tool is 6mm from the 200mm mark…

Then I had to chase my tail setting the brake switch as I found the freeplay/clearances changed when I tightened the cluster bolts which had to be loose to adjust the brake switch…and vise/versa…around and around…

Got it in the end!

What do you know…the damn thing works flawlessly (the brake switch)…all within the factory freeplay range of pedal movement…the first 1mm!

J.

[bruceo98]

You'll be driving it soon. Since you have the wiring done, Have you tried to start it yet?
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.

[DUNGBTL]

[bruceo98]

Nah, been waiting for cooler weather to tackle the wiring . Looks like we might get some next week. I don’t like sweating and being aggravated at the same time
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.

[DUNGBTL]

Finished the driver’s side floor mat. Bonded rubber matting to the wear areas…

…bonded a rubber square where the clutch pedal stop hits the firewall…

Perlon over Thermozite, ACE hardware rubber runner matting. It’s a tight fit to the pan. Tucks under the side body flange and wedges itself to the perimeter. While it’s not glued to the pan, it doesn’t seem to need any other restraints…have to ‘pry’ it out…it doesn’t move. The foil backed Thermozite, while being lightweight, really adds stiffness to the thin Perlon.

J.

[DUNGBTL]

That was easy…NOT!

Rear window installed with the help of my wonderful wife…Mrs. DUNGBTL

Used a West Coast Metric ‘Cal-Look’ rubber…

…which fit perfectly!

This is the second rubber. I torn the rubber on my first install attempt when the 14g electrical wire I was using to pull the inner rubber flange over the body flange. Pulling the wire over the body flange stripped the insulation and the copper wire evidently sawed thru the rubber… I used 14g wired as the pull ‘chord’ after watching the JBugs video in which Sam effortlessly installed the rear glass in a ‘72 SB using same. Made it look easy! My mileage varied!

A $50 mistake ($35 part w/$15 s/h). While I waited for the rubber #2 to arrive, I took a fine file to the window flange and smoothed any flash and sharp edges. Then lubricated said flange w/silicone grease.

This time I installed the rubber onto the glass w/o any lubricant. The first time I had lubricated the rubber glass groove with silicone grease and quickly learned that what makes the rubber easy to slip onto the glass…also makes it easy to slip off…which happened many times during my install attempts.

The second time was success! The rubber stayed on the glass during install and the weed-wacker line worked ok…until it got to the right and left upper corners of the opening. Then all forward progress halted. No matter how hard I tried to pull the rubber flange out and onto the window flange all I was doing was pulling the string through rubber. Flange wouldn’t budge.

The weed-wacker line method got the rubber 75% seated around the window flange. But it would not turn around upper corners. So I had to use a variety of prying/poking tools lubricated w/silicone grease…

…to pry and pull the flange out and over the body flange while crumpled up sitting on the package tray reaching up over my head…good times!

I won in the end…got er done!

J.

[bruceo98]

Yeah they can be a pita sometimes. I use nylon rope with lots of lubricant. Set the lower in first and have someone gently press down as I pull the rope . Looks good .
_________________
I may not be the best, but when the top 10 get together, they all talk about me.