Adjusting a 009 bosch distributor

[canabus]

Opinions are like a$$holes everyone has one...

I still VERY disagree with fi...it was good ..in it's time!!!!

while your searching junkyards..for 30 +yr old parts and fuel pumps up north new are $300 alone/opposed to a NEW carb $300 and new 009 $50

I'll still be on the road and any hick town has my parts
as IF you could remedy a fi prob without the right amount of tool$..faster than I or any mech could a 009/carb setup!!with minimal tool$

MY opinion........
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The Adventures of Pablo and Bunny

[the north wind]

Thanks for the tips and advice.

The FI vs carb debate is pretty much the proverbial dead horse around here though. Or perhaps pro life vs pro choice. I don't think anyone is going to change anyone elses opinion by arguing with them here.

Anyway, we took it to our shop (Wolfsburg motorwerks), and it took the owner about 7 minutes of fiddling with the carb settings and the distributor to get everything adjusted. Seems to be running quite well at this point. And he didn't even charge us a thing! All told we took up at least 1/2 hour of his time. I think Wolfsburg motorwerks is awesome and would highly recommend them.

Our older 1.8L seemed to be smoother and much quieter... But it runs again, and we spent much much less than the 1500 -3500.

We'll look into our other options down the road, but for now we are just excited to be on the road!

[[email protected]]

Glad you're back on the road.

Canabus - yes we can all have opinions, and I DO agree that "every hick town will have your parts" which can be comforting. All I do though is have basicly an extra FI system in my toolbox. Not all put together - but I do have every part should something go south. Its very easy to diagnose as well - so *shrug*.

But they aren't "expensive."

In my opinion a well tuned FI system is far superior to anything short of Dual Dells. And even then, you'll get better milage with the FI system. But - the 009 will give you higher temps. I have yet to see a single VW that this is NOT the case on. But it's a LOT more pronounced on a 3500lb bus than the 1500lb beetle.

In my opinion - the 009 is fine for a stop-gap measure - or to have in the toolbox should something go wrong, but other than that - pretty much junk.

And yes - opinions are like arseholes...everyone has one.
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Ryan

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1963 Beetle
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[udidwht]

Quote,"In my opinion - the 009 is fine for a stop-gap measure - or to have in the toolbox should something go wrong, but other than that - pretty much junk."


Unless your fortunate enough to have a German one to begin with. Also while crusing down the highway there won't be a difference between the 009 and SVDA since the SVDA has no vaccum signal at speed.

[Randy in Maine]

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[the north wind]

So, how do I check the amount of vacuum from the weber progressive to see if I can get it to work with the vacuum advance?

And if it is not enough, how do I know how much to drill that thing out?

We're considering switching the engine back to FI, but have to go through what we have to see if we have all the parts, or if the parts we have even work.

[[email protected]]

Use a vacuum guage from your local Auto Parts Store. They just attach to the nipple on the carb.

I can't remember WHERE on the carb - but there should be a vacuum port - and thats stock. Should be on the back side (facing you as you look in the engine compartment) - mine had it I do recall. It may have a rubber stop on it if its not hooked up.

On the FI setup - let us know if you need anything. I have a whole set of injectors extra, two extra cold start valves, a dual relay, and various other parts. Also - the parts come up in the classifieds on here pretty often.
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Ryan

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1963 Beetle
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[the north wind]

Cool, thanks Ryan. I'll try and go through and take stock of what we have, possible post some pictures, as I am not sure what all we need for it.

Thanks!

[udidwht]

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The problem with the 009 is that it can NOT respond to the driver's needs. When you tromp on it - the advance - no matter that curve - is dictated by the engine RPM - period. Sure you could re-curve it to get close to what you need - but you will always be off. It may run better recurved than not - but - it wont run optimally.

Even the SVDA has to be recurved as it is not set optimally.

I don't doubt that your 009 is better off than it was out of the box - but have you tried a re-curved SVDA? Just curious....
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Ryan

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1963 Beetle
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[udidwht]

[vwjw]

Here is a photo guide to help you see where the vac take off is located.
http://webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/webertroubleshootingguide.pdf

[Jeff Geisen]

... solexes... I read from your advice you always condem the 009s, yet you run one on you FI Bus, which you seem to be battling with constantly.
You downrate carburetors, and choose instead to struggle with FI. To top it off, your username... man!
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[Rocknrod]

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[[email protected]]

Rocknrod - I hear Jake has had problems with the vacuum can Mallory - and that the vacuum in that case really doesn't add all that much to the Type IV. I read all the reviews - on here and elsewhere about the mallory being better than the SVDA and went that route. The SVDA is MUCH better than the 009 though...and I have experienced that first hand on other busses I've owned / driven.
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Ryan

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1963 Beetle
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[Jeff Geisen]

... you haven't had F.I. problems? You digress;
I will refresh your memory...

7-10 idle problem
( 7-21 buying the vac. adv. distributor in a week)
7-24 F.I. quit
7-24 (later the same day) F.I. system quit
8-3 F.I. system problem
8-14 high temps, F.I. mixture problem
8-27 vacuum lines mixed up (F.I. problem)

That stuff there is a looooooong 3 seconds!
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

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[renobdarb]

This thread has gotten really stupid.
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1978 Campmobile, 2000cc w/hydro lifters, dual Weber 44 IDF carbs (50 idle jets, 115 main jets), SVDA distributor w/Compufire.