Auto Primer over Rattle Can Primer? Will I get the crinkle?

[NinetyEight]

I know if you spray rattle can primer, and then attempt to paint legitimate auto paint over it, you'll get "The Crinkles". I want to finish the body work on my bus this week, all it has left is sanding the upper half, stripping the roof, and priming. (From the belt line down already has 3 coats of high-build auto primer). I want to keep the areas that will be taken down to bare metal safe from the elements (and keeping me from having to repeat the sanding). Will it be safe to shoot rattle can primer on the newly sanded/stripped parts, and then when I go to paint the bus, shoot a layer of auto primer over all of it?

Basically, What I'm asking is...
If I spray rattle can primer onto the metal, then a month or two later spray auto primer over the rattle can primed areas, will I have any harsh repercussions?

Will the auto primer wrinkle when sprayed over the rattle can primer, or is it only regular auto paint that does that?

I apologize if this didn't make any sense...

Thanks in advance,
Garrett
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[drift-monkey]

with my super i had a few areas where i had sanded down to a weird lime colour paint on the front guards ,i actually used can primer to go over these areas to stop the auto primer from wrinkling, the only way to actually tell is to give it a go because some paints have different chemicals, but im pretty sure u'll be ok.

just my few cents worth , good luck with ur bus dude

[Ipaintem]

dont do it. Think of it as building a house, that primer would be the foundation. You dont build a house on a sand foundation. Either sand it off before you etch prime or just wait to prime it all at once.
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[hellbentt]

I have used plasti-cote and dupli-color high build primers and painted right over it with acrylic enamal on the same day without any problems.
Those cheap-0 primers have in the directions that you can recoat within a short window of time, or you have to wait 24 hours to recoat..those are the ones that wrinkle if you recoat too soon, or have the reactions to other solvent based products.
I do agree that if this is a car you want to keep for a long time, use the best products that you can afford or you will be doing it all over again sooner than you woud like!

[AZ65CalBug]

if you use a SEM high build primer - you'll be safe.
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[tstracy39]

I've had absolutely no trouble doing an auto paint job over rattle can primer. No lifting or anything. I primered almost the whole car with Krylon grey primer, and the body shop used an auto primer-sealer and topcoat. Did this with two cars and no problems.

[jt69bug]

I know this is a real late reply but I was curious myself about this. I have two different types of primer, with one being automotive.

I sprayed a gear shift with regular rattle can primer, let it cure for 2 weeks and then sprayed regular rattle can paint enamel on that and allowed it to cure for 2 weeks. I sanded lightly and sprayed (for experimental purposes) some automotive clear coat - it ate it up clear through the primer to the gearshift. It bubbled and crinkled up used a paint stripper on it.

To solve this in the future, they do sell (in the spray can) automotive grade primer - works very well.

[PressureProjex]

I'm in a similar situation but with rustoleum oil-based enamel. Ive painted my entire car with it which was a huge huge mistake. Theres no way to get it to lay down decent without loading it on. And then it never dries.

Its just a daily beater and i reaaaally do not want to strip all this paint off.

I know the urethane paint wouldnt work but what about acrylic? Are most of these rattle can primers oil-based?

Maybe ill just buy the sealer. And if that goes on ok, i shouldnt have a problem with the color, right?

[jt69bug]

You painted your ENTIRE car with regular can spray paint? Would you happen to have a photo of this you can share?

I'd get that off the car. Take it as a lesson learned.

Regular automotive (in the can) would have cost you about the same price as a premium regular spray paint. But why not buy a cheap sprayer, some cheap automotive paint and experiment? You'll probably spend less in the long run.

You can buy epoxy primer in the spray can. It has the hardener in it. When you push down on a plunger, it starts to react. You then have something like 1-4 days to use it.

You can use regular paint on the interior if it's good, but nothing has the durability of real automotive paint.

[Foxx]

[PressureProjex]

I used rustoleums oil based enamel, thinned it and sprayed it with a gun. I really should have looked at the prices of automotive paints before i did this. Because like mentioned its not all that more expensive.

But damn it, i dont want to strip it again.

[jt69bug]

I have not personally held it in my hand, but rustoleum and other makers have a two part epoxy primer in a single can. Supposedly, when you pop the cap and you press down, it pops open an interior, yet separate, hardener in the can. You then shake it and it blends together starting the reaction. I think the ad said 1-4 days to use it.

Do a google search for rustoleum epoxy primer and then search for spray can.

[Foxx]

[jt69bug]

Yep, I'm with dude. Besides, there are SO MANY competitive car paints on the market now being marketed to the home user/hobbiest. I saw a complete kit of one gallon paint, and primer and all that jazz for like 80 dollars (no clear coat - just one step paint system).

And if you look at the work involved with Rustoleum and other oil-based paints and the countless hours color sanding and what not, you've wasted valuable hours you could have been, well, giving the wife the #4 piston, cruising the strip in your hood ride, talking to your buds about how Canadians are really whacko when it comes to hockey, and so forth.

[JerryMCarter1]

no
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