Types of Steel?

SSChicken · Samba Member Joined: September 25, 2006 Posts: 279

I'm still trying to get into metal fabrication, but a little leary on the lingo here. I called my local steel shop and asked for:
' 2 Inch round stock steel, .090"
and he said:
' I don't have that, I've only got schedule 40, try shop xyz '

I'm not used to using schedule measurements on steel, only on PVC so far.

So what is the correct terminology I should be using? was what I said correct? I kindof know what I want (2" x .090 and something 1.5"), but I'm not sure what the correct lingo is.

Also, what is a good thickness for 1.5", just for general use like light bars or whatever. I wouldn't dream about doing anything structual yet Smile

Sorry for the super newbie question but I come from a family of carpenters so I'm all alone in the metal working world!

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:33 am Post subject:

You are close on terminology.

Tubing is sized in the true thickness as in your 0.090 inches.

"Pipe" thickness is sized in the schedule table.

You will need to go to a supplier that carries tubing and not pipe. 0.090 is good for light bars. 0.120 is best for bumpers and cages.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

earthquake · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:35 am Post subject:

SSChicken
next time tell them you are looking for "tubing", Pipe is measured by "ID"
while tubing is measured by "OD", you never want to use pipe for any roll cage, I guess it would not hurt to make bumpers out of it other then the fact that you would need different dies for you bender for pipe and tubing.
.090 wall 1 1/2 round tubing would be fine for most bumpers I would think. I hope this helps.

Earthquake
_________________
74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]

Dale M. · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:41 am Post subject:

For main roll cage members 1.5 OD (or 1-5/8), .120 DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) is probably best because its stronger then plain "mild steel" tubing and not near as expensive as chrome molly tubing....

For non-cage bracing 1.5 inch .090 wall is probably sufficient...

I believe Schedule 40 refers to PLUMBING PIPE not STEEL TUBING.... The key phrase here is "tubing" and you search should take you to steel sales & suppliers not plumbing supplies....

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ansi-steel-pipes-d_305.html

And time somebody throws a "zinger" at you and infers you dont know what you are asking for do a little GOOGLE search and become informed buyer or searcher....

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

SSChicken · Samba Member Joined: September 25, 2006 Posts: 279

runslikeapenguin · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:13 pm Post subject:

also instead of throwing around super fancy terms like CREW (cold rolled electric welded) and DOM (drawn over mandrill) use the terms, seamed and seamless.
_________________
never forget 1-31-07

dustymojave · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:23 pm Post subject:

"Seamless" tubing is another animal RLAP. And far more expensive. DOM has a seam which spirals, but the tubing is drawn over a mandrel after the seam is welded, which metallurgically reduces the effects of the seam as well as visually.

If the people at the steel supply aren't familiar with terms such as "CREW" and "DOM", I'd head to another supplier.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

STOICH · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:59 pm Post subject:

I did a stint out of state once, I was told it was called, NASCARTUBIN....

came back home where it is still called 1 & 1/2 095....

(still looking for that die for the tubin....)
_________________
My classifieds
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=stoich

STOICH · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:14 am Post subject:

Im curious as to why he thinks that Question

_________________
My classifieds
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=stoich

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:21 am Post subject:

Glasser · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:20 am Post subject:

ERW "Electric Resistance Welded" , same as CREW.

Found this on the web if anyone is interested in the different types.
http://www.zookpower.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=4593
_________________
Brent
My build up http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265364&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Project#2. Neighbors build up. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327008

Dale M. · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:23 am Post subject:

Glasser · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:40 am Post subject:

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:56 am Post subject:

Terry Cloyd · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:14 pm Post subject:

If your building a car you need to look at OD size. The OD is what you can buy dies to bend your frame parts. I think your roll bar needs to be .095 1 1/2 OD.

SSChicken · Samba Member Joined: September 25, 2006 Posts: 279

Ok so yesterday I picked up a 20 foot length of 1-1/2" x 0.120 from a different proveder. Cost $55 (fair price?). My sole intention with this bit is for practice, so that's what I've been doing. Just welding tubes together, I'll be cutting this up and welding it to something else in another fashion here pretty soon, also be cutting some of the welds just to see the penetration (which I think was a little low this time around).

I'm using a Lincoln 3200HD which I have liked very much, I really have no formal training and most of what I do know comes from http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ , though I'm planning on taking a course this summer some time.

I'm also using the 60 degree tubing notcher from Harbor Freight. It's TERRIBAD! The shaft wouldn't turn when I bought it, and it's like 1/8" off to one side. I cleaned and polished the shaft, and put some spacer washers in so that the holes are centered finally. Also the degree marker is completely off, 45 degrees actually makes a ~35 degree notch, so I'm just going to start using a protractor to measure from now on. Maybe I'll make my own scale on the notcher using the protractor as a guide. 39 bucks, though, so I can't complain too much. 39 bucks, and a little over an hour rebuilding it, polishing the shaft and bearings, oiling, etc. and I feel it will work for what I need. The ridgid bimetals I use with it kick ass, though. Not sure I'll be able to change blades since it's probably jammed on too tight, but I'll tackle that when it comes to.

Anyways, after all that babbeling, the reason I am posting is to show you my welds. They aren't perfect and I'm just asking you constructive criticism. Does it look like I've got too much/little power, feed? do I move too fast or slow? Are these welds acceptable? (not pretty >.<) They have just been cleaned with a wire wheel.

Again, this is 1.5" .120.

Thanks!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

hendersoned · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:54 pm Post subject: welds

try a bit more heat (amps) the welder should have a nice steady sizzle not pop pop pop

Bubba 72 · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:03 pm Post subject:

It looks to me like you need to turn up your wire speed a little and try the heat up one notch. I use a little less than 3 for wire speed and C for heat. You can always back off to find a good setting for both.
Try to rest your gun hand on something while you weld and you will get way more consistant faster. I use both hands as much as I can.

Then again, I might be full of crap and some of the other guys I hope will say so.
_________________
Stand on it! You can fix broke stuff later!

SSChicken · Samba Member Joined: September 25, 2006 Posts: 279

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:01 pm Post subject:

Slow down a little and burn through. Watch as you burn through to see just what it looks like. Then try welding slow enough to just keep ahead of burning through.

And practice, practice, practice.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> HBB Off-Road	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: 1, 2, 3 Next
Page 1 of 3

Types of Steel?
Page: 1, 2, 3 Next