Sticky Accelerator / Gas Pedal

[soundcatcher]

I have a '65 Ambulance running a 1641 engine with a centrally mounted Webber 44IDF using CB Performance Manifold (low profile single idf kit) and Cable (single carb linkage kit).
For some reason which I don’t understand the gas pedal is sticky. It’s the initial movement of the pedal which is the problem. When you start to pull away from standstill it’s all or nothing.
You’re either crawling away from the line being overtaken by a slug or your revving the nuts out of the engine. Once you’re moving as long as you don’t completely lift your foot of the pedal you’re alright.
If you do lift your foot off whilst changing gear you cause the bus to hop/ jump until you get past that initial push again?!
The most annoying part of all of this is that with the engine switched off you can’t feel the problem so much (the pedal feels free??).
Any ideas? I’m completely stuck?

Cheers

Andy

[MedicTed]

Disconnect the accelerator cable from the carb linkage. Then play with the pedal and the carb linkage seperately. You need to localize the actual problem. It could be a sticky hinge on the pedal, or it could be in the linkage.
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Ted Wojton
70 VW Bus Westfalia camper
2003 GMC Sierra

[pyrOman]

First impression is that the carburator "butterfly" flap is totally shut when at idle. This causes it to bind and has to be "jerked" and snaps open. Make sure it is open a bit using the set screw against the stop. If that isn't the case, get under the bus and look for the accelerator cable rubbing/binding against the transmission. Sometimes the rub is such that the cable actually cuts a groove into the trans case and eventually it will start binding if not just plain breaks off!
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[soundcatcher]

[pyrOman]

[soundcatcher]

[pgslaughter]

I had a problem like this and it turned out it was actually the throttle linkage that was sticking, check between the throttle cable and the carb and see if the linkage could possibly have tightened itself.

[soundcatcher]

[67 Delux]

Alright, I have a similar problem. I have a dual carb set up, and the pedal gets sticky as well. I narrowed it down to the linkage. When you start to press it down, it's stiff at first and squeeks a bit. But then it moves just fine after you have passed the first push. I greased up all the joints on the Linkage, and where it connects to the Carb, but nothin will stop it from squeeking. And it's still stiff. Maybe it's the butterfly, not sure though. Any ideas.

Oh, the Carbs are 34 mm webbers I think.

Thanks for the help.

[soundcatcher]

So this squeak...you're sure it's in the engine bay??? Have you got a friend to help so that you can make sure that's where it's coming from??

Have you lubricated your pedal assembly and did you grease all the moving parts on your carbs??

You've tried moving your linkage by hand to see how it behaves/ squeaks?

You might find that it's a kink in the cable near where it enters a tube?? I had this problem...it was stiff as it entered the tube but once it was in there it worked just fine. Replaced the cable and it now it's fine. (Mangled by a garage supposedly fixing my bus....Cheers guys! )

You might find that if the above stuff doesn't look like it's the problem you will end up taking your linkage apart piece by piece until you find the issue. Be patient and scientific and you'll work it out.

[EverettB]

[67 Delux]

So I unhooked the pedal cable, tryed to press the linkage down manually. It's real squeeky, and very hard to push. So I took some WD-40 to each bolted connection of the Linkage and where it connects to the Carb, that helped a bit, but it's still squeeks inside the carb. There's something holding it back. I think it's the butterfly valve. I'm just not sure how to lube that without taking the thing apart.

Any ideas on that.

I also notice it's easier in the mornings when it's cold, after it warms up it gets real hard. I feel like I'm about to snap the linkage. Why would the heat affect it so much.

I took it in to a local mechanic a while back, he did something to the engine so it worked perfectly. Just as smooth as butter. However, about 2 days later, it was back to normal. I just want it to be normal again.

Thanks for the help.

PS, I broke down in Yuma AZ today on the side of I-8. Ended up finding the greatest guy in the world. He helped me get up and running in no time. Just wanted to give thanks publicly! Thanks Jim

[soundcatcher]

Sorry to say this but I think you need to strip down your carb. It's either the Butterfly needs adjusting or you have bent the bar that the butterly is on. This is caused by the cable being to short and everything gets strained when you push your pedal down fully?? Hopefully it's just the butterfly out of kilter.

[Sitka Steve]

[mintonman]

I used a small piece of fuel line, sliced it down the side to get the cable in it, rtv'd it to the tranny where the cable was cutting in. Once the rtv was dry I packed the piece of fuel line with grease.
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under the influance "DUH"

[Sitka Steve]

Yes, that is a great solution. I have a bit of hose and some grease.
Cheers!

[Eric&Barb]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=90291&highlight=accelerator+cable
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Sitka Steve]

thanks Eric&Barb for your wonderful link!

Indeed both my singlecabs are 1960....one has the wire guide while the other does not and is newest to me....however, I know the PO removed the tranny several times and no doubt it was left off at that time....

I also discovered that the cable was sawing it's way out of the metal guide tube soon to attack the fuel line. If I space the cable in it's new rubber gas line guide from the tranny it should center the cable like in the picture.

Folks, please advise me if this set up is OK....accelerator cable in rubber gas line zip tied to the choke cable. This assembly is zip tied to the hand brake cable. This pulls everything away at the tranny and at the fuel line. I just wonder if there will be wear elsewhere with this set up. I like the rtv option, but didn't have any on hand tonight.

I also assumed it was the rubber fuel line as that is a lot easier to slice in half (as mintonman says) than a metal one....

The best option will be to get one of those boden tubes and fit it the whole length.

[Eric&Barb]

Just undo the cable from the carb. Pull the cable forward from under the transaxle. Slip the cable into the hose and reconnect the cable to the carb.

With how dry the cable looks, would pull it out up front for a full grease up to help avoid cutting the tube and having sticky cable.

Of course one could easily fab up the early style of cable guide out of a coat hanger. Then your choice if you want to run as stock or go ahead and run the fuel line in it.

The later cable tube was a huge improvement for this area.

Here is a shorter version that could have a piece of steel tube added to be the right length:

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=111+721++551&Search1=Search
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[pyrOman]

On the Dormy I use the "sleeve/cover" from a bicycle's hand brake with a couple of washers at the ends! Works great!

But that should be a temporary fix. The one from CIP1 for $20 sounds like s fair deal for a more correct item.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.