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van pulls to the right when I brake hard
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:38 pm    Post subject: van pulls to the right when I brake hard Reply with quote

Like the title says, my van pulls to the right when I brake hard on the highway. I did an alignment just in case and it didn't fix the problem. I've had the VanCafe big brakes in the front for over a year plus 15" tires, the van brakes fine.

Thanks for the help!

E
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Last edited by madspaniard on Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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autostick73
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would check your brake lines. Sounds like too much pressure on one side causing it to pull. I have heard that it is the opposite side that is pulling is where the problem is.
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morymob
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure u have NO play in steering etc then check left side,it's not doing its share.
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pioneer1
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:14 am    Post subject: pulls to one side Reply with quote

I believe the usual problem is a leaking wheel cylinder. It. will contaminate the brake pads with brake fluid and cause the rotor to slip or grip the pads unevenly
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kevtherev
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

autostick73 wrote:
I would check your brake lines. Sounds like too much pressure on one side causing it to pull.


yes and air/water causes that
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

could this be the problem?

rear right wheel area

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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah that's your CV or axle bearing slinging grease. take a look inside the swing arm housing and it's probably full of moly, the oil is bleeding out thru the housing seam. Not part of your braking problem, though, even if you had a leaky rear wheel cylinder it wouldn't cause a pull on the steering.

After first establishing that there isn't undue play in your steering, you have basically not enough brake pressure or friction on the front left. Inspect that brake caliper, look for leaks, if it looks dry then lift both front wheels and spin them while dousing the rotors liberally, both outer and inner sides of both rotors, with Brakleen or WD40 . No, I'm serious here; WD40 is a good solvent/cleaner and it does wonders on cleaning disc brake pads and rotors. Road test, just be sure to apply the brakes steadily a couple times before you need them to dry off the WD. If this doesn't restore even friction, then you could bleed just the left side in case there's any air in that circuit, but you probably need to replace the flex-hoses; they can swell internally and limit delivered pressure at the caliper.
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JunkYarDog
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also have someone apply the brakes while you have the front end lifted. Then you could check to see if one side is not engaging. If a hose has clogged with debri then the left side might not be working or may be only partially working.
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vwlovr
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 on the brake lines. back before the samba when i was left to my own devices (which wasn't much as i was 20yo and broke) i had this problem on my 71 bus. replaced a caliper, replaced the master, turned out to be the $8 brake hose.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Nah that's your CV or axle bearing slinging grease. take a look inside the swing arm housing and it's probably full of moly, the oil is bleeding out thru the housing seam.



So I noticed that the inside of both of my trailing arms have what looks like fresh grease stains.

Any easy way to tell if it's axle or CV grease?

I replaced CV/boots not too many miles ago, (Lobro IIRC) boots are fine, no noises or other issues. They are seated at flanges and torqued right with Blue Locktite.

If CV grease, where does the grease sling out from?

And to get back OT, to madspaniard:

Any chance it's a rear brake issue?

Neil.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:


Any easy way to tell if it's axle or CV grease?



The stub axles seals don't tend to leak and the CV's do, especially if the grease used to lubricate the CV's is thinner than the OEM stuff. There is no real seal or gasket to keep the grease from oozing out of the joints with time. One of the reasons I think the OEM stuff should not be used is it is designed to be so thick it doesn't readily leak from the joints. As a result it will also not lubricate the CV's well because it cakes up in the joints instead of continually coating and recoating the wearing parts.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Vanagon Nut wrote:


Any easy way to tell if it's axle or CV grease?



The stub axles seals don't tend to leak and the CV's do, especially if the grease used to lubricate the CV's is thinner than the OEM stuff. There is no real seal or gasket to keep the grease from oozing out of the joints with time. One of the reasons I think the OEM stuff should not be used is it is designed to be so thick it doesn't readily leak from the joints. As a result it will also not lubricate the CV's well because it cakes up in the joints instead of continually coating and recoating the wearing parts.



Ah. Ok. Neat. Thanks. "The (possible) cost of doing business" so to speak.

I don't recall the brand name of the "Oobleck" I put in there. Likely "Moly".

Caked up grease rings a bell. The CV's were the first thing I tackled upon new (first time) ownership of my Westy. I recall that they may have had dried up CV juice.

I'd rather have a little leakage than having it dry out.

Another task for the not too distant future though. Check CV's.

(at least the outboard ones)

So would a failed/failing/maladjusted/brake fluid stained set of rear shoes/hardware cause the pulling?

Edit: or at least a great degree of pulling? (as I anticipate madspaniard is experiencing)

Neil.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel bearing grease, oil, and sometimes brake fluid getting on brake parts may cause the brakes to grab. One trick to finding out what is actually happening with your brakes is to find a dirt or gravel road and apply the brakes as you drive along. This way you should be able to detect what brakes are locking up and which ones are not. Uneven braking on the front will typically cause a vehicle to swerve much harsher than uneven braking on the rear.
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levi
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you'll get much if any pull as a result of one of the shoes.
I just had a wheel cylinder spew madly inside my right drum.
The inside of the tire and wheel were dripping, and when I pulled the drum nothing was dry. Couldn't have got more brake fluid in there if you had sprayed it with a hose. Rolling Eyes , and I drove it for two days like that Embarassed
I have a feeling the drum on that side wasn't contributing much if any, and it tracked true under braking.
Man, I hate messing with brake fluid all over everything.... Evil or Very Mad

btw, this was just yesterday that I pulled this, and put in a new wheel cylinder.
Put it back together with the wet shoes on that side, though dried off what I could.
Figuring that side of shoes is ruined, but the inside of the drums had some pitting, so, I know there's 2 vanagons in the local pic a part, think I'll go see what those drums look like first.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uneven rear braking effort, if it does anything untoward at all, can make a car drift, but it will never make the steering pull. If you actually feel a torque reaction at the steering wheel upon braking the problem has become pretty severe and it is always going to be a front brake problem.

Staining around that rear control arm bearing housing will almost always be from the CV's slinging grease, and the oil in the grease seeping into porous areas, like along seams, as was pictured. Of course the color of the grease you find inside will tell you straight away, since the CV's use black moly but the bearings use a conventional lithium grease; taking a sample with your finger will tell you right away. The relatively large radius of the joints and lack of seals establish good conditions for them to sling grease when it gets warm enough to ooze out between the mating surfaces when wheel speed is high. VW and other manufacturers in some applications used a gasket that sat inside the flange and sealed the joint body to it, but use of these, although a good idea, was applied inconsistently, and where they were put in by the factory they are almost always damaged or lost the first time the joints get serviced. I've encountered them on numerous cars but the gasket has never once been reusable so I've never put one back in.

There is certainly nothing wrong with sealing the joints to the flanges, I'm seeing enough grease slung that I'm planning on going this route. A little bead of a silicone-based sealant around the inside of the flange cup and the boot cup would help keep the black stuff where it belongs.

You do occasionally see rear wheel bearings sling grease if the seals are really shot; when the outboard seal goes you end up with grease inside the brake drum, which can foul the shoes. I've seen this happen with Vanagons, so be advised that is a source of contamination for rear brakes that will compromise friction far worse than brake fluid will.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks TC.

I now recall reading a thread about someone suggesting a Porsche PN for a seal that could likely be used at outer CV flange. But.... silicone sounds like a good solution.

I should have read the OP's post more carefully. I get what you mean. Big difference between pulling and drifting.

Neil.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
..... One trick to finding out what is actually happening with your brakes is to find a dirt or gravel road and apply the brakes as you drive along. This way you should be able to detect what brakes are locking up and which ones are not. Uneven braking on the front will typically cause a vehicle to swerve much harsher than uneven braking on the rear.


I used that trick not long ago. Hopefully that helps the OP find out which wheel is grabbing first.

As for rear brake adjustment, (something we all love to do I'm sure) although this was done on an old Bug, another trick I *saw*. Jack up rear, run wheels with engine, then put brakes on slowly. That way you could see which wheel grabbed first or if both were grabbing at the same time.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote for a frozen caliper.

jake
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 vote for frozen left front caliper.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

update: I didn't have a lot of time to look at things, swapped left and right rotors and the problem is still there. I forgot to mention in my original post that this does not happen every time I brake or with the same intensity. I need to power bleed the brakes and see what happens, calipers have very few miles on them.
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