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Skid Plate Problems...
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skoochskooch
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Joined: July 24, 2004
Posts: 18
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 11:04 am    Post subject: Skid Plate Problems... Reply with quote

Has anyone had this problem.

My friend and I took out the original motor, and in trying to install the new motor (with a deep sump oil resevoir), we are hitting the skid plate every time. Now the skid plate, as it looks, should come off with the bolts, but the person who had this car before me welded the skid plate on (as well as the bumper, but that's another situation). The skid plate part that I am trying to describe is not the two piece grill that goes aroung the oil drain, but a piece of plate metal that is bolted to the underside of the transmission housing, that goes the underneath length of the trans, and sticks out about 2-3 inches towards the engine.Our current solution to this is to grab an angle grinder and take it off, because this car is planned not to go off roading. Also, the clutch off the old motor was in good shape, so we are putting it on the new engine. Other than the proper torque on the clutch assembly, we have a clutch alignment tool I purchased, but have no idea on the application. Any assistance to our current situation is appreciated.
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TeamSpatula
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Joined: February 03, 2004
Posts: 5207
Location: WNC
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: Skid Plate Problems... Reply with quote

skoochskooch wrote:
Also, the clutch off the old motor was in good shape, so we are putting it on the new engine. Other than the proper torque on the clutch assembly, we have a clutch alignment tool I purchased, but have no idea on the application. Any assistance to our current situation is appreciated.

I can't help with the first part, but the clutch alignment tool is used when bolting the clutch assembly together. You insert it through the clutch disc, so that the splines line up, and then into the gland nut on the flywheel. The clutch plate bolts over top of that, and the tool keeps everything lined up during assembly so that the input shaft of the transmission lines up perfectly with the clutch.
Oh yeah, after you have it all bolted together, remove the alignment tool.
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TimGud
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Joined: March 03, 2002
Posts: 6392
Location: Rio Rico Arizona
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just went out and had a good look at how much room is between the skidplate and engine and a deep sump wouldn't fit here either. It should have been bolted at the front hinge and you either have to forget about having the skid plate or the sump. If you remove the skid plate be sure to save it as they are very hard to find if you were to change your mind later, and try to do as little damage as possible removing it. Good luck.
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skoochskooch
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Joined: July 24, 2004
Posts: 18
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
skoochskooch is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 6:57 am    Post subject: Thanks for your help.. Reply with quote

We got the engine in today, and it started right up. To take care of the skid plate problem, we took the bolts off and with heavy hammer, broke the weld in 3 swings with no problems. With the new engine, according to the instructions from the engine builder (Quality German Auto Parts in CA), once we got the oil pressure up, we started up the engine, and ran it for about 15 minutes from 2000-4000 rpm.
The only problem that I am having now (new topic) is that my deep sump area is leaking oil heavily, but my assumption is this is due to the weight of the engine and the rocking of the engine for installation. But what to do? I'll put it out there as a new topic.
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