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JeffRobenolt 
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1531
Location: Wisconsin
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 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 9:04 am Post subject: |
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I kept my stock 85 rear springs in. I used 3 layers of cutting board to raise it up to 19". Then I have the Monroe shocks with the helper spring for a Chevy Astro van(longer). It holds the rear up very well and the ride is still good.
My cargo box stays on the van loaded and my bumpers are super heavy and when camping the rear oF the van is full.
I would go this route first and if you think you need more spring you can do that later. The stock van shock will top out depending on how high you raise it.
What RPM are you running at 65mph? do you like the 3.73's?
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 9:15 am Post subject: |
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| dubbified wrote: |
I have to consider my application, and general safety of what I'm looking to do.
I'm going to be packing one primary class 42 deep, 2/3 auxillary, 8-18G propane, 35-50G of water, a heated shower setup, kitchenette, greywater storage, a ton of camping gear, awning, electronics, when on vacation probably 4-5 people aboard.. not to mention things like fridge, generator, rear hitch based storage, locking arm rack system for storage/propane/water, tire holder and the steel bumpers also are much heavier than the fiberglass.
I think I'm going to need stronger springs, bit more clearance would be a bonus
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Yep.. That's a lot of gear.. Don't expect to get this right with out some trial and error.
My gut says that stock springs (new) can carry that load.. but with your tire choice you will likely encounter some rubbing in the front fender.
The good news is you will gain some much need ground clearance with the bigger tires. REAL ground clearance.
Anyway.
I am STILL sorting my fronts out.. and its been 2 yrs. (Am now adding bumpstop to the shock to limit upward travel.. and am looking into customized UCAs.)
Several here have gone down this road and solutions to the problem have varying results. (from what I've read)
Sooo.. the short of it is this.
As a 2WD, you will need room for chains in the rear.. That means clearancing the rear swing arm.
And I'd seriously consider a Peloquin TBD in your auto transaxle.
In the front you will need to work out your details. Urethane bushings will improve overall handling, but the benefit will be less offroad. Its also a relatively big job. Rubber is less costly.. but only you cna decide how far to go with that.
But the bigger factor is if you can get those tires to fit up front. Clearancing the front and back edges of that front wheel weel is not a big deal.. Modifiying the upper lip is a little more involved. Rolling the lip is a minimum.
You won't know how much you need to do, until you have everything fitted.. And keep in mind that a spring lift does not solve the problem entirely.. Those springs are bound to compress enough in certain circumstances such that a 28-28.5" tire WILL hit the top of the fender and do damage.. (or it will be damn close!)
You do not want that to happen while bogging some rainforest in Brazil.
This can be a $$$ rabbit hole.
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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wenholzm
Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2010
Posts: 140
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| Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:38 am Post subject: |
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| dubbified wrote: |
How do you know?
Ideally a bit of insight both to the in person condition (they're ok looking) to the feel/sound/feedback with how it drives in various conditions.
After I picked up the van last spring, I pulled the front suspension apart, restored it all to new, replaced all bushings, cleaning, and painting each component as they were seeing some rust, cleaning the springs/suspension in process undercoating.
Generally my real decision to do this was by being on couple backwoods trails before I tore the van down for restore in Feb, I noticed it wasnt maintaining ride height as good as I'd like, and I was nowhere near as loaded as its going to get for my trips up to Northern Canada Territories/US rockies next year, maybe a short one this fall, if I bust nuts and get this project done.
Tires are taller/wider. I will need some additional clearance.
As far as how much these springs can tolerate.. I gotta do more investigation.. I may replace the hydraulics at some point to something which is known shape, and will help with my setup.
I am also thinking about the future application and setup of my rig. We're setting it up like this to be anything from personal command center for search and rescue efforts, easy weekend getaways, longer vacations throughout North/South America(hopefully).
I'm going to be packing one primary class 42 deep, 2/3 auxillary, 8-18G propane, 35-50G of water, a heated shower setup, kitchenette, greywater storage, a ton of camping gear, awning, electronics, when on vacation probably 4-5 people aboard.. not to mention things like fridge, generator, rear hitch based storage, locking arm rack system for storage/propane/water, tire holder and the steel bumpers also are much heavier than the fiberglass.
The springs and bilstein shocks are unknown from the Previous owner, although they work, look ok, sound ok, drive ok from what I can tell, I have little room for comparison with a van, as this is my first.
While I'm considering springs, I'm also wondering if Urethane is a worthwhile endeavor. |
I guess the clearance is the biggest issue, for now I am going to continue upgrading the suspension, and leave the springs to last. This is my first Vanagon and Westy, do not know much.
Thanks for the posting as this is something I have been thinking about since the comment I got from the mechanic recommending new springs.
If you do make a trip to South America, I am in Guadalajara MX if you need anything. |
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furrylittleotter
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2008
Posts: 1506
Location: West Seattle
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 8:47 pm Post subject: Re: Springs on a 2wd Auto |
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I am adding the following post to threads related to rear spring selection.
It is applicable to 2wd and Syncro:
"After trying new shocks, carat springs, and new poly rear arm bushings I was still extremely dissatisfied with my rear suspension setup.
It simply wasn't moving.
I wanted to be able to custom select my springs based on rate so I decided to fit 2.5" coilover springs and see what happened.
Here is a photo in place but before paint and without rubber isolators.
No unusual angles. Slight rub on rubber sleeve at stop on top. Seems acceptable.
First I fitted 450lb 10" 2.5" Eibachs.
Still could barely move the van up and down jumping up and down on bumper.
Then I fitted 400# springs and it finally moved.
So far so good more testing to do.
I made the mounts from 1/4" steel plate and steel pipe coupling (conduit) cut in half, welded in.
The extra rubber is 1/2" reinforced belting I custom ordered to help isolate.
I cut it to fit.
The lower mount is angled.
The factory bump stop is covered with a thick rubber sleeve ( 1/4"?)
Fun little project."
Neil2 |
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micparsons
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2017
Posts: 29
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2022 4:46 pm Post subject: Re: Springs on a 2wd Auto |
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Hello all … i am planning to buy the GW 1.5 lift coil spring setup, and Fox shocks (2wd bundle). I plan to keep my OEM 14in rims (currently running General Grabber tires). I know it’s recommend/advisable to upgrade to 15in or 16in rims/tires, its just that I want to keep things as stock as possible and prefer the original look.
Obviously safety comes first and want to make sure this is ok having the 1.5 lift with 14in OEMs? (Note, if it helps/matters, I added T3 Anti-Roll Bar a while back.)
Appreciate your opinion or thoughts/concerns… couldn’t find this specific question in any of the threads.
-Mike
‘90 Westy stock |
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