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Kadron Setup problems
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
Yeah - something is rotten in Denmark - Look at this thread - there's a pic of KAds and it shows that the bottom port ONLY is to be plugged.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=346942&highlight=


There are several holes above the throttle plate.
I guess I should put some wire in there and make sure they're clear?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd blow them out as well - you should be able to get carb cleaner through them.
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi dave the carbs are on there way to you . i hope this fixes the junk carbs you were sold . i am a old school kind of guy . i am willing to help out when i can . good luck . nice talking to you . spencerfvee........................................
DrummerDaveB wrote:
andk5591 wrote:
Yeah - something is rotten in Denmark - Look at this thread - there's a pic of KAds and it shows that the bottom port ONLY is to be plugged.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=346942&highlight=


There are several holes above the throttle plate.
I guess I should put some wire in there and make sure they're clear?
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some updates here.

I was experimenting with the idle adjustment screw. It turns out is was spring bind that was preventing it from seating all the way. With the spring removed, it found best idle without being screwed all the way down. So that's a good thing. Of course I cant leave it that way.


I also got spencer's kadrons, soaked them in cleaner for a day (well, one of them at least), cleaned it up real nice, and swapped the carb body on the passenger side with my carb body (the center portion).
That made no difference. So that piece is apparently fine.

Next, I swapped my stuff over to the other throttle body, and put it on.
That made a huge difference, in both good and bad ways.

It GREATLY reduced the partial throttle stumble, and it runs better than it used to while driving it. But it idles like crap. I'm not sure if it is a vacuum leak due to sloppy throttle shaft or something but it sits and pops when idling (pop pop pop pop pop pop)and backfires through the carb if I turn out the idle screw very far.
Also, when I rev it, the engine takes a while to settle back down, but then tries to die about half the time.
I couldnt get to the back side of the throttle shaft, but spraying some stuff on the front side made a slight difference in the idle speed, so I assume there is at least some air getting in there and the throttle body needs rebushed.

Oh, and I attached my homemade manometer (half filled with gear oil). When I start it, it sucks all the oil out my driver's side before I can even begin to adjust it. Any ideas how to handle that? Obviously it means they're way out of sync, but the throttle positions appear to be pretty even.

So, more questions.
1) The Kaddieshack throttle bodies were modified for SVDA. That carb is not utilizing the vacuum port. Could that modification have this effect, or am I to assume it is somehow defective?
2) The constant popping at idle - indicitive of a vacuum leak?
3) Engine speed not quickly returning after revving it indicates it's rich? Do I remember that right? If so, why might that be?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Oh, and I attached my homemade manometer (half filled with gear oil). When I start it, it sucks all the oil out my driver's side before I can even begin to adjust it. Any ideas how to handle that? Obviously it means they're way out of sync, but the throttle positions appear to be pretty even.


Easy - disconnect your coil wire and just crank it a little - adjust and repeat until you get close just cranking. Then start the car......
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave i think you need a bigger idle jet sounds like its running lean on that side of the carb for some reason . allso if your running my old parts the white spacers between the carb body and throttle shaft are bad they have cracks in them you should use the ones off of your carbs sorry i should have told you spencerfvee.........quote="DrummerDaveB"]I have some updates here.

I was experimenting with the idle adjustment screw. It turns out is was spring bind that was preventing it from seating all the way. With the spring removed, it found best idle without being screwed all the way down. So that's a good thing. Of course I cant leave it that way.


I also got spencer's kadrons, soaked them in cleaner for a day (well, one of them at least), cleaned it up real nice, and swapped the carb body on the passenger side with my carb body (the center portion).
That made no difference. So that piece is apparently fine.

Next, I swapped my stuff over to the other throttle body, and put it on.
That made a huge difference, in both good and bad ways.

It GREATLY reduced the partial throttle stumble, and it runs better than it used to while driving it. But it idles like crap. I'm not sure if it is a vacuum leak due to sloppy throttle shaft or something but it sits and pops when idling (pop pop pop pop pop pop)and backfires through the carb if I turn out the idle screw very far.
Also, when I rev it, the engine takes a while to settle back down, but then tries to die about half the time.
I couldnt get to the back side of the throttle shaft, but spraying some stuff on the front side made a slight difference in the idle speed, so I assume there is at least some air getting in there and the throttle body needs rebushed.

Oh, and I attached my homemade manometer (half filled with gear oil). When I start it, it sucks all the oil out my driver's side before I can even begin to adjust it. Any ideas how to handle that? Obviously it means they're way out of sync, but the throttle positions appear to be pretty even.

So, more questions.
1) The Kaddieshack throttle bodies were modified for SVDA. That carb is not utilizing the vacuum port. Could that modification have this effect, or am I to assume it is somehow defective?
2) The constant popping at idle - indicitive of a vacuum leak?
3) Engine speed not quickly returning after revving it indicates it's rich? Do I remember that right? If so, why might that be?[/quote]
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bomberbaja
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mixture screw is stuck. I have the little plastic twist wheel thing on my 3/4 side, and it won't move. I'm not sure how to fix it...
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dalland
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello I hope this may be the winning reply you need to fix those bastards.
Some years ago I bought a set of 40 kads and had problems with one of the carbs, plugs went black, on one side and the other side was way to lean.

After half a year of swearing and cleaning and resembling them many times I finally found the fault!
One of the venturies was missing the idle circuit hole, and in the top half of the carb there should be a small 1 mm ventilation hole that also was missing.

Ofter fixing this everything was as good as it should be.
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dalland wrote:
Hello I hope this may be the winning reply you need to fix those bastards.
Some years ago I bought a set of 40 kads and had problems with one of the carbs, plugs went black, on one side and the other side was way to lean.

After half a year of swearing and cleaning and resembling them many times I finally found the fault!
One of the venturies was missing the idle circuit hole, and in the top half of the carb there should be a small 1 mm ventilation hole that also was missing.

Ofter fixing this everything was as good as it should be.



I'll check the venturis... Thanks. I am pretty sure the vent hole is there.

I'm also wondering if it could be a distributor issue somehow, although I don't know how that could be the case since the one I changed was the right carb that isn't attached to the dizzy. Still I wish I had a good working spare to compare and make sure, so I could rule that out.
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Dougy Dee
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the idle speed increase as the car warms up?

Have you tried the stock Kadron linkage?
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dougy Dee wrote:
Does the idle speed increase as the car warms up?

Have you tried the stock Kadron linkage?


IIRC, I dont think it did.
I only have the Scat linkage
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scat linkage is fine - I run that on all of mine.
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been a while, but I guess I can update this a bit.

I went ahead and invested in a Bosch SVDA distributor, since I know my stock DVDA was in rough shape.
I also put the new kadrons all back together w/ the tight throttle bodies.
I also sync'd my carbs w/ my homemade manometer. They seem to be even now.

I am now getting the correct amount of advance up to 45 degrees total w/ vacuum. It is running better than it was, and it's almost tolerable, but it still isn't right.

It still feels really soggy, pretty much all around. I still have to turn the idle adjuster all the way in for best idle.

I currently have .050 idles, and 125 mains.

I've checked my plugs - both are black. I am not siphoning through the accel pump. I get no popping at idle.


So Im going to source some .045 idles and see what happens.
Im not sure why I would need such small idles, but maybe it's because of the smaller valves in the FI heads? I dont know.
Anyway, that's the latest.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrummerDaveB wrote:
I still have to turn the idle adjuster all the way in for best idle.
Do you mean the idle adjustment screws or the mixture adjustment screws? Are you using a balance tube between the manifolds?
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
DrummerDaveB wrote:
I still have to turn the idle adjuster all the way in for best idle.
Do you mean the idle adjustment screws or the mixture adjustment screws? Are you using a balance tube between the manifolds?


Sorry... Idle Mixture.

Yes, using a balance tube.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have to turn the mixture screws all the way in there is still something odd going on with your carbs. The mixture screws should be around 2 1/2 turns out from bottom, +/- a little.

The venturis and their set screws are tight? Are the air correction jet/emulsion tubes tight in the carb body? They are a press fit but can sometimes come loose. 45 or 50 idle jets and 125 mains are pretty small for a 1600. Not saying the smaller jets are wrong for your motor but most 1600's are 55/127.5 at the smallest in my experience. I tried 125's in my 1600 but it didn't like them.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
If you have to turn the mixture screws all the way in there is still something odd going on with your carbs. The mixture screws should be around 2 1/2 turns out from bottom, +/- a little.

The venturis and their set screws are tight? Are the air correction jet/emulsion tubes tight in the carb body? They are a press fit but can sometimes come loose. 45 or 50 idle jets and 125 mains are pretty small for a 1600. Not saying the smaller jets are wrong for your motor but most 1600's are 55/127.5 at the smallest in my experience. I tried 125's in my 1600 but it didn't like them.


I'll check on the venturis. If they're not tight, what would that do?

The carbs were modified to add the SVDA vacuum port by Kaddieshack. My understanding is they add the port, and block one of the passages in the carb throat. I've heard that can have some effect on getting the idle mixture right.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure of the method Jeff Lain uses to port the Kads for vacuum but I'm pretty sure it works well. Wink

If the venturis aren't tight it could potentially create some tuning problems. It's easy enough to check and tighten the set screws. Just snug, not 200 ft/lbs. Laughing
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
I'm not sure of the method Jeff Lain uses to port the Kads for vacuum but I'm pretty sure it works well. Wink

If the venturis aren't tight it could potentially create some tuning problems. It's easy enough to check and tighten the set screws. Just snug, not 200 ft/lbs. Laughing




No 6' cheater bar. Got it. Very Happy
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DrummerDaveB
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
I'm not sure of the method Jeff Lain uses to port the Kads for vacuum but I'm pretty sure it works well. Wink

If the venturis aren't tight it could potentially create some tuning problems. It's easy enough to check and tighten the set screws. Just snug, not 200 ft/lbs. Laughing



Venturis ARE tight.
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