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tpinthepack
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 855
Location: clearwater,florida
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 Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 12:30 pm Post subject: Not Just another Heater Box/Core Fan Issue. Help Needed. |
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OK, so first:
Fan Resister has blown/Burned a hole in the Heater Box. How do I fix this, rivot sheetmetal, plastic weld etc?
What Resister is best, VanCafe and Terry Kay have nothing on the site listed?
I have holes in the Steel air vent that look like drain tubes or plugs missing. Look at the pic of steel vent and you can see the hole. Do I plug it, or is something missing.
Am I supposed to have a vent that blows air down into the steel channel so air passes to the doors and then the back seat? Mine is not vented and thus no air will travel down or around the doors? Odd or normal? Seams Odd to me.
Obviously I will be getting a Core and Fan Etc. Thanks
Tony
_________________
TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne |
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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| I would scuff the plastic and use resin and mesh to cover it up. |
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tclark
Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2005
Posts: 926
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tpinthepack
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 855
Location: clearwater,florida
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Any Ideas on the air flow down the steel vent? I have seen other heater box's whith a vent that channels air into the steel cross member and then it routes into the front door jamb and then to the vent at the rear of the front doors? My Doka has the vents in the doors but no air has ever come from there and now that the air box is removed I see why. The bottom of my air box is sealed up, but it looks like It could be cut. I may consider replacing this with a used box that has the downward vents so air can pass to the doors. I would like to know what the reason for this is? My Doka is Canadian Model and originally had bench front seat and 6 passenger setup. I have the rear heater under the back seat also.
Thanks
Tony
_________________
TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52690
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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| The air box was designed for use with air cooled engines. The bottom of the box was in the inlet from the heat exchangers in such applications. |
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tpinthepack
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 855
Location: clearwater,florida
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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I am buying this air box for spare parts. Notice the vents on the bottom that feed the steel channel and then the doors. I would think this is better for Florida? I am not sure if it has more cables or requires a different lever assembly. I hope it is not melted like mine.
_________________
TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 10472
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:56 pm Post subject: Re: Not Just another Heater Box/Core Fan Issue. Help Needed. |
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Go to Home Depot or Lowes, roofing department. You can buy a small piece of sheetmetal for cheap in that part of the store. Glue it over the hole, screw it down over the hole, whatever.
The heater resistor is hard to find other than a few from parted vans. Easier to find is the A/C resistor, similar but an extra speed, meant for the same fan motor. 86+ A/C has 2 of these resistors.
Mark
| tpinthepack wrote: |
OK, so first:
Fan Resister has blown/Burned a hole in the Heater Box. How do I fix this, rivot sheetmetal, plastic weld etc?......................
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tpinthepack
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 855
Location: clearwater,florida
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 4:15 am Post subject: |
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Another Note, my Doka has only 3 levers for the fresh air controls, not 4 like I see on most Vanagons. The 4th lever is for the bottom flap that goes to the doors. I am guessing air to the doors would be a good thing. I am thinking this is a Doka Specific airbox.
_________________
TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 10472
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 5:12 am Post subject: |
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Not just Dokas, I have seen Vanagons with only 3 levers, in some 90/91. The missing bottom lever feeds vents in the ceiling in the back of the vans. The ducting goes through the front doors to the B pillars, and then up to the ceiling and back. Those sliding vents in the doors are for something else.
Here, this page from an owner's manual describes the 4th lever purpose. The last text on the page also explains the sliding vents on the front door.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1985vanagon/34.jpg
Mark
| tpinthepack wrote: |
| Another Note, my Doka has only 3 levers for the fresh air controls, not 4 like I see on most Vanagons. The 4th lever is for the bottom flap that goes to the doors. I am guessing air to the doors would be a good thing. I am thinking this is a Doka Specific airbox. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52690
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 5:30 am Post subject: |
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| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Not just Dokas, I have seen Vanagons with only 3 levers, in some 90/91. The missing bottom lever feeds vents in the ceiling in the back of the vans. The ducting goes through the front doors to the B pillars, and then up to the ceiling and back. Those sliding vents in the doors are for something else.
Here, this page from an owner's manual describes the 4th lever purpose.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1985vanagon/34.jpg
Mark
| tpinthepack wrote: |
| Another Note, my Doka has only 3 levers for the fresh air controls, not 4 like I see on most Vanagons. The 4th lever is for the bottom flap that goes to the doors. I am guessing air to the doors would be a good thing. I am thinking this is a Doka Specific airbox. |
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The only purpose I can see in the rear vents is that when they are open it relieves the pressure inside the heater box and keeps the box from whistling. By the time any air reaches the vents, it is pretty much at outside ambient temps. Mine stay open all the time unless maximum heat/defrost is needed during the winter. |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 10472
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 5:36 am Post subject: |
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Only ambient outside air is fed to the rear ceiling vents in the first place. The air to them comes out of the heater box ahead of the heater core in the airstream. This reduces air available to the rest of the box unless the bottom lever is closed.
I think the rear ceiling vents were put there mostly to deal with cigarette smoking.
Mark
| Wildthings wrote: |
The only purpose I can see in the rear vents is that when they are open it relieves the pressure inside the heater box and keeps the box from whistling. By the time any air reaches the vents, it is pretty much at outside ambient temps. Mine stay open all the time unless maximum heat/defrost is needed during the winter. |
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tpinthepack
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 855
Location: clearwater,florida
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:56 am Post subject: |
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That looks like what I needed to know. Great link to the owners manual. I have not seen one of them. I may have made a mistake to purchase the used airbox to replace my melted one, but I may get some use out of the other parts maybe. I might even just lock the lower vents closed and leave my 3 lever switch in tact and be done with it.
Terry Kay does have the resister setup in the Samba Classifieds, so I need to call him for the heater core and resister pack now.
Thanks again
Tony
_________________
TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne |
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dhaavers
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 8521
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:34 am Post subject: |
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Or, since you already have a hole in your box...
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Here's my plan for a replacement blower resistor. I've been sitting on this for a while.
I won't actually get started on all this until I get myself a new heater core, but I do have one of these ready to go in:
http://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-17909-01-Heater-Blower-Resistor/dp/B003AOVNUO
1991-96 Jeep Cherokee XJ BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
Mine was about $11 at my FLAPS. This is a replacement for the original Jeep part #55036000. With all spade connections it'll wire up easily. I will need to modify the heater box by cutting a hole to mount the resistors themselves inside the heater box. Airflow inside the box cools the resistor coils & keeps them happy, as was designed.
The mounting hole will be in the flat area of the heater box above the gas pedal under the dash. If (when) this thing does ever burn out (they all do), it will be easy to replace - right there out in the open.
This model has 3 resistors (so it could be used with a 4-speed switch) but I bench-tested it with my replacement blower and I plan to use only the slower 2 speeds with the stock 3-speed dash switch. This shows the connections:
I'll only use the row of three connections all in a line - I tested it & made the markings:
L=LOW speed (goes to 1st position on dash switch)
C=COMMON (goes to motor "+" connection)
M=MEDIUM speeed (goes to 2nd position on dash switch)
For FULL speed, run a solid wire directly from the 3rd position on dash switch to the motor "+" connection .
Final wiring is from GROUND to the motor "-" connection, and from POWER (fuse #14 for me) to the dash switch COMMON connection.
- DISCLAIMER #3 - SOME OF THIS IS FROM MEMORY -
So I'm sure I left something out, and I'm not 100% sure about the specific connections at the motor. I plan to mock it all up on the bench and if it spins the wrong way, just reverse the connections.
Try it if you like it...
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from: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497233&start=100
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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tclark
Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2005
Posts: 926
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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I am kinda curious why you guys want to use the resistor pack
(that are 20+ years old)
when you can get a BRAND NEW variable fan speed solution using the PWM controls for $30 ?
_________________
89 Westy with TDI AHU 1.9 manual lots of mods
85 GL 1.9, auto (for sold) |
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dhaavers
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 8521
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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I'm using a BRAND NEW resistor unit for $11....and it'll be easy to replace when necessary.
Plug & play.
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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dhaavers
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 8521
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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