My Bostig Install

[NC Dude]

Re: Water pump-did you get it sorted out?
I ask because I'm on my 3rd one
what happened is that the first PS pumps pulley was warped, causing the water pump to tear. The second water pump lasted 2 months, tops.
I wisened up and replaced the PS pump and warped pulley when I went for the 3rd water pump.
Thousands of miles later-perfect
Really digging the shorter ps pump hose-little details like this need to be incorporated in Bostig's official package

[squeegee_boy]

[LemonCove]

[LemonCove]

[shizzon]

Great pics on the picasa site!

For the testing I did, the resonator box really seemed to make a big difference in the noise.

We really should start a bostig airbox thread...

cheers
sean
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[NC Dude]

[shizzon]

resonator box is a smaller box attached to the big box that helps cancel the sound waves and quiet it down. if you did the bostig mod as per the video, you took off the resonator, chopped it to pieces, and then used it to weld the box shut.
_________________
1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[squeegee_boy]

[connorsvw2]

Good point on the heater hose/ATF incompatibility. The ATF may cause the rubber to soften and then collapse under P/S pump suction and lead to unpleasant noises from the pump. Had this happen on my Subaru conversion until I could find oil-rated hose to replace it.
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'85 Westy Wolfsburg camper/2002 2.5 Subaru since 2003.
'85 GTI 1.8L 1-owner 8v-gave up on 9A 2.0L 16v transplant. Keeping her stock!
'99 Passat 1.8T Variant-AKA "The Money Pit". Still limping along...
'09 Subaru Outback XT 5-speed, 245 hp rocket (wife's car)

[buildyourown]

I found high quality silicone hose at my local hydraulic shop. You only need a ft, so it's only a couple bucks. Works much better than the supplied hose for the return and bends nicely with no kinks.

I second the shortened pressure hose. Mine blew after rubbing on the muffler all summer. Ended up getting a nice shorter one and brazing on the stock fitting.

[LemonCove]

[quote="squeegee_boy"]

[squeegee_boy]

[quote="LemonCove"]

[NC Dude]

Thanks for the quick reply.
I haven't watched the air box video or done any mods to it.
I have an electrostatic air filter sitting in the wheel well inside the bottom of the snorkel area.
May revisit this in the spring

[LemonCove]

[quote="NC Dude"]

[NC Dude]

Thanks Jed-I routinely see the OEM's pop up on ebay for less than $40 on ebay
I'll probably wait till I can upgrade to the 2010 cradle and then pull the trigger on new motor mounts

[buildyourown]

Well, it's been 3 yrs since I did my conversion. Overall, I've been very happy. It's never had an issue I couldn't fix in a parking lot with standard tools.
However, after 3 years and as many miles, it was time for some love and updates. Mine was a G16 with some tweaks by me along the way. Some worked, some didn't. Bostig has made updates since and there have always been some nagging issues I wanted to try and correct.

Issues:
Throttle pedal feel: Not sure why but the cable has always been stiff and the throttle only opens about 50% because of the awkward angle of the mounting bracket.

Exhaust leak: The stock muffler coupling didn't fit great and I had a significant leak.

Intake noise: Update to RG3 style intake with stock air box and resonator.

Replace leaky water pump.

[buildyourown]

The real impetus for starting this was a leaky water pump.
Buy Motorcraft parts kids.
Crappy chinese made Bosch part on the right. OEM on the left. You want the plastic impeller. 3 yrs is not an impressive life span.

[buildyourown]

I pulled the throttle body and found this lovely sight.
Now, every Ford throttle body seams to have a sticker on it warning that you should never clean it as you will damage the sensitive Teflon coating. These are the same cars that had a recall for sticking throttle bodies.
This may have been the partial root cause for the stiff throttle pedal.
I cleaned it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and lubed with teflon spray

[buildyourown]

Thinking about the root cause of the throttle body fouling, I compared the stock (Focus) PCV routing to the Bostig's.
On the Focus, it's routed to the airbox where it's muffled by a chunk of foam and then has to pass through the filter. On the Bostig, it's dumped into the intake tube 2" from the throttle body with no filter. Not ideal.
After much deliberation, I decided to go with the stock Focus routing and install an oil catch can.
I'm a sucker for pretty made in America machined stuff.

I had issues with the plumbing. So I drilled out the airbox with a Unibit and installed a bulkhead fitting. Fits perfectly.
This also solves the issue others have had with getting a 5/8" hose on the airbox barb.

[buildyourown]

Now to the issue of the throttle body linkage.
On the right is mine off of my '02 engine. On the left is an '03.
Almost all cars use the style of the '03. It's got a rocker and a cable groove and the lever arm stays the same throughout the travel.
On the '02, it starts out stiff, gets easy, and then finishes stiff.
They fit on the same manifold, but the TPS in different. The bolt pattern is different and the shaft interface is different. You might be able to cut wires and splice, but I have now idea if the output is the same for the computer.
I'm going to have to make the '02 work.
(look for an '03 engine for your conversion)

Heres what I came up with. A bent piece of tubing (ala bike v-brakes) that positions the cable at the perfect angle.
Now, since I'm going to the RG3 intake, I need a new throttle cable anyways. I didn't want to pay what Bostig was asking, so I figured I'm make my own. It's really just aircraft cable, bike brake housing, and some soldering.