71 Bay fuel tank outlet nipple

rneithammer · Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:00 pm Post subject:

I was talking about the portion of this setup that has pipe thread fittings. The solenoid valve inlet and outlet is 1/4" NPT....and I think I'll need to use teflon tape on those connections. Is there any reason not to use the usual white teflon tape that lives in my plumbing box?

Opossum · Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:26 pm Post subject:

Yes, only use the yellow tape that is made for fuel. You can buy it at Home Depot and most hardware stores. I have used it, but you can see I used the paste on this install. I just like using the paste on gas and fuel related threads.

http://sealtape.com/ptfe_yellow.html
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1973 Orange Westfalia Hard top, Original owner

Tcash · Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:53 pm Post subject: Fuel tank shut off

Thank you Opossum.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Valve from here: http://www.afcvalves.com/mod121.html
Center AN fitting: http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Aluminum-14.html
Gas tank fitting (right piece): http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288

Edited, to request mounting holes. Thanks DB

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52328

rneithammer · Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:32 pm Post subject:

Thanks, O'Possum. I ordered stuff today. Couldn't order the solenoid valve on the web - that needs to be a phone order on a weekday. But the rest is on the way. I decided to try going through a right angle 6AN female to 1/4"NPT as the first fitting after the tank adapter. Got the adapter you suggested also, in case my plan doesnt work. Also, ANPLumbing had a nice looking hose fitting, so I got that too.

Desertbusman · Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 3:22 am Post subject:

For the AFC valve purchase use the discount code. Seems like it might have been "the Samba" but I can't really remember for sure. Check thru the Fire Sticky because we mentioned the code there. I think it was around $7 savings.

And the standard P/No doesn't include the mounting holes. I drilled and tapped mine.
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rneithammer · Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:10 am Post subject:

Trying to find that fire sticky......what forum is it under?

busdaddy · Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:18 am Post subject:

From the FAQ at the top of the bay forum page Wink

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=266181
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rneithammer · Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:51 am Post subject:

Here it is:

"The one I bought is an AFC121
1/4" female N.P.T., 12V N.C. 1/4" orifice Advanced Fuel Components, Inc.
There was some serious discussion about selecting that one on the Samba. Search and you will find it. the company has it set up for a $7 discount if you use the coupon code "thesamba"

rneithammer · Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 7:04 pm Post subject: Installation complete

The job is done!

Actually, I finished it a while ago, and the bus has been on a major long trip with the solenoid installation. No issues at all.

Here are some pics:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1102604

Closeup of the parts I used, including a section of brake line from the FLAPS that goes from the tank outlet connection, across the top of the tranmission, to the solenoid.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1102603

Another shot of the parts. Also from the FLAPS, I got the adapters need to go from the brake line compression fittings to the 1/4" NPT fittings.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1102602

This is the tank outlet, with the tank to AN 6 adapter, AN 6 to 1/4" NPT male elbow, 1/4' NPT female to 1/4" NPT female coupler, and 1/4" NPT to brake line adapter. I bent the brake line into a squiggle across the top of the transmission, to allow the stuff on each side of the tranmission to move indpendently if they have to.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1102601

This is the solenoid, located on the opposite side of the transmission from the tank outlet. Not the most illustrative picture, but you can see how I mounted it: Made a bracket that mounts under a conveniently located chassis bolt. Tie-wrapped the solenoid to the bracket.

Getting this thing in, connected, wired and working was an all-day-er, but worth it. And, besides the fire protection benefit, it allows me to run the carb dry for winter storage of the bus, just by disconnecting the hot lead to the solenoid (which I connected to the coil hot lead), starting the engine and running it till it quits.

rneithammer · Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 7:26 pm Post subject: Posting pics

One more thing: I tried...followed the directions in an FAQ, but I'll be danged if I can figure out how to make pictures (not just links to them) appear in a post. Any advice welcome.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52328

rneithammer · Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 7:37 pm Post subject:

BINGO! Thanks.

Desertbusman · Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 8:19 pm Post subject:

This is how I made the tank fitting. It's 1/8" female pipe thread. Mainly because of wanting to have a filter before the solenoid valve and not after.

Also had gotten a 1/4" x 24" steel brake line to bend and replace the stock steel line that goes around the left end of the fan shroud for using good 1/4" hose for the flex connection. However the original steel tube is already 1/4" diameter for the 5.5mm hose to attach to. So instead I'll either get a 5/16" steel brake line for the slipon 1/4" hose or else use the fittings on the brake line. But hadn't yet found an adapter fitting to fit the brake line fitting. The adapter fitting you have for the brake line is the male end pipe thread?
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rneithammer · Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 7:48 am Post subject:

Yes, the brake line fittings I have are 1/4" NPT.

I like that fitting you made...can you give any details on the process? I also like the idea of having a filter before the solenoid valve.

Seeing this brings up a question: I thought there was supposed to be some sort of filter screen (filter sock?) at the tank outlet - like a wire screen that goes over the outlet tube that sticks into the tank. When I took the original tank fitting off, I did not see this, so I have no clue whether I have it or not, what it is supposed to look like, can I get one and install it using the tank outlet fitting I have, where would I get one, etc.?????

On the plus side, my tank is pretty clean I think...only a few particles of rust came out, even after I dumped some sacrificial gasoline in there to flush it out.

grungeant · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:52 am Post subject:

I know this is an old thread, but I am doing something similar myself using NiCopp brake lines.

When you guys were talking about sealing the threads it's not so much using something rated for fuel it's more important to use something rated for ethanol.
I am a fuel hauler and every threaded fitting at a gas station is coated with a dope called Gasoila E-seal
http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe-thread-sealants/gasoila-e-seal-thread-sealant.html
You can get it on amazon for about $15.

I am using the 111 version of the valve
http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html
which uses 1/8 fnpt threads going in and out, as does my facet fuel pump.
The stock fuel filter for a 1986 F-150 with a 4.9L uses a fuel filter that has female threads that will accept 5/16 brake line going in, and 1/8 mnpt threads going out that I can screw directly into my fuel pump, and the filter is 10 microns as opposed to the 74 microns on the regular Facet thread on filter that a rubber line clamps to.
Also I am using the 5pin Rabbit relay that has the pin for the tach pulse and will shut off power if the engine is not running for my fuel pump and the shut off valve.

What size is the ID of the stock fuel tap on a 74 bus?
I will need to use about 1.5"-2" of rubber to transition from the stock tap to a metal brake line. 3/16 line looks more close than 1/4.
I thought about this after I put my tank, and engine back in and attempted to plumb the fuel lines and realized I wanted to use the valve.

Also, has anyone had any issues with the fuel getting hot and vaporizing in the metal lines?
I thought about slicing open some rubber fuel line and wrapping it around the metal lines as insulation in some hotter areas.
I also got a fireproof sleeve to cover the rubber pieces where I need to go from the tank to the metal, and from the metal to my carbs.
http://www.americanfiresleeve.com/aviation-marine-...cable.html
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Tcash · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:27 am Post subject:

Teflon Tape (for gas)

grungeant · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:49 am Post subject:

grungeant · Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject:

CrRusty · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 3:27 am Post subject:

I like the direction of this thread but, shouldn't the first thing after the fuel tank be the fuel filter. I would imagine any junk flowing out from the fuel tank would potentially allow the solenoid valve to eventually leak, just like a leaky carb problem. Anyone yet try a setup using a metal fuel filter like Bosch used in the 80's?


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71 Bay fuel tank outlet nipple
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