Bus Front Floor Replacement

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:07 am Post subject:

You are very welcome. This was something I was looking for two months ago when I decided to replace my floors. The only things I could find were bits and pieces of other peoples build threads, and the information on doing the floors was not very detailed.

Big Bill · Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:07 pm Post subject:

Yes ditto on the thank you Ken. Looks very nice and the thread itself has given me a few tips I will use. Could you post a few pictures of the area were the front part of the wheel well meets the floor, mine is going to need a little help there like yours did. Thanks again

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:09 pm Post subject:

&Dan · Samba Member Joined: January 29, 2008 Posts: 1787

Aces! Nice job.

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:00 am Post subject:

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:03 am Post subject:

Just HAD to prime and paint a little...just to sooth my soul and give me a great big freakin' smile. Still need to do some small "finishing " patch work to make it prettier (not too much), and seal everything up for longevity. At my age (60) I'm guessing this new work will still outlast me.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

zuggbug · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:50 pm Post subject:

Great job...thanks for sharing
_________________
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS
58 15 window
56 westy

zimblewinder · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:13 pm Post subject:

I have the same process only I use pop rivets to pull the plug weld line together. As long as the area behind isn't blind I just drill the heads out and push out the rest before I weld. Fairly quick.

Cheers
Dale
_________________
58Euro 23 343208 The Ultimate Zimblewinder Machine.
59 mango standard
Wanted- splash pan supports, og pressed bumper coach bolts, ivory blaupunkt knobs (early), armrest alloy strips, NOS door mechanism

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:24 am Post subject:

Using POR 15 Filler / Seam Sealer on the edges, over the welds, etc. VERY pleased with how it fills, dries and hardens. Supposed to take 4 days for a total cure. About $15 a tube and had enough to do more than the floor...top and bottom. It also does the same trick on any rust it hits as regular POR 15.

mandraks · Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:00 am Post subject:

if you put some tape down before you put the sealer on, you get really nice looking seams
_________________
regards

Uli

----------------------------------------
'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:03 am Post subject:

nice dad · Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:14 pm Post subject:

Well you inspired me to take my rusted floor pan out. I just want to mention how I removed the Cab Heater Tube Assembly.

I ground down a total of 5 welds (@ B & D) and popped out (according to your drawing) sections 2 & 3 as one piece. Tapped the tube down and out with no problems.

Thanks

_________________
1967 Single Cab

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:24 pm Post subject:

Great! If you leave the e-brake assembly in, like I did, you'll need to remove the upright section if the heater tube as well to fit and install the new floor... Not difficult. I'm installing the steering column and various pedals this week. My new found skills and confidence will have me attacking the right side rocker, B-pillar and surrounding area soon. After the floor, these other jobs seems almost easy.

nice dad · Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 11:52 am Post subject:

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 5:44 pm Post subject:

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:05 am Post subject:

Finally got the correct paint. I'm finished other than reassembly of ancillary stuff. VERY pleased with the results and that this job is over!

Bulli Klinik · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:10 pm Post subject:

Nice job! I just caught up with the thread since commenting on it at the beginning. You can really gain an appreciation of what's involved once you actually do one.

How about a couple of before after pics to really see the difference?

Congrats!
_________________
PM me about quality metal-work on your vehicle.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:32 pm Post subject:

Mt "Befores" are on page #1.

kenshapiro2002

Trying to reinstall the steering column today and just couldn't do it. First problem was the hole was 30mm and the column is 32mm. Then, still couldn't get the bus high enough off the ground to get the column back in. Brett tells me that on 2 of the 4 floors he's bought from Gerston, he had to move the column hole rearward 1/2"...that Gerston has moved the placement of the hole multiple times (waiting for a call back from Gerston), and still has complaints from folks. I'm not upset, these things are always gonna need tweaking.

My plan is to cut a horizontal box out around the hole, off set to be 1/2" deeper to the aft end. Hopefully, I'll just be able to swing the piece around 180º and have it right. Chances are I'll still have some "fudging" to do.

Gerson · Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 2:05 pm Post subject:

this is the first I hear of this with the steering column......we are checking right now what the hell is going on.... Confused

_________________
that's not patina, that's fucking rust man!!!!

we (klassicfab) make the funky green panels...........


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Premium Membership \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Bus Front Floor Replacement
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 Next

	Forum Index -> Split Bus	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 Next
Page 6 of 9