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Hesitation & stalling when hot (was: camping...)
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rayma, the ignition switch is on my list of things to check. With yours were you able to induce the problem by wiggling the wiring to the switch or wiggling the key around?
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Rayma
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I could not make it miss or quit with the switch installed, but fooling around with old switch after it was removed, with continuity tester showed intermitant contact. I just a wiggel the uninstalled switch with a screwdriver in the slot that receives the tab from ignition lock while in the on position,that is what confirmed it was shot, while performing a continuity test. And all summer no burps or misses. Hope that makes sense. I now also carry a spare.
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erikgundy98
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:22 pm    Post subject: Getting hot or not Reply with quote

I was able to rule out the ignition switch by jumping from battery to coil and got the bus to buck with the "jumper" in there.

I also have extra heat (dont know why it is getting hot) while sitting, driving, etc.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saw this in another thread.... perhaps another way to skin a cat

Tcash wrote:
Random misses are ignition related.
To test for ignition leaks. Use a jumper wire to ground a well-insulated screwdriver. Drag the screwdriver down the length of each spark plug wire, around the coil, and the boots. If you see an arc from a wire to the screwdriver, you have defective wire. Good Luck

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crushie
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This manual also had tests on the ignition switch, can't remember the different tests right now, but before you pull the switch this maybe worth your while.

http://bc.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tir...Z538785790


Crying or Very sad
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've stored the bus for the winter. Snow is on the ground and it looks like it's going to stay. Before I closed it up though, I was curious about the health of the battery and charging system since I had read that it could also cause the stumbling and hesitation. So I tested the battery and it read 12.66V (incidentally, it's hovering around freezing here right now). Then I started it and checked again and it read 13.76V. With the headlights and radio on it read 13.40V. According to the Bentley this is a bit low, but is it enough to cause my issues? I also wiggled the key around in the ignition while it was running but it had no effect. Jiggled the wires to the ignition switch as well. More shaking than any uneven pavement would ever cause. I don't think the ignition switch is the culprit.

So, disappointingly it's put away for the season with a host of tests I couldn't get to in time. I'll have to get back at it in the spring. Maybe Santa will fix it for me while I'm sleeping...
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crushie
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AB westy nut wrote:
Well, I've stored the bus for the winter. Snow is on the ground and it looks like it's going to stay. Before I closed it up though, I was curious about the health of the battery and charging system since I had read that it could also cause the stumbling and hesitation. So I tested the battery and it read 12.66V (incidentally, it's hovering around freezing here right now). Then I started it and checked again and it read 13.76V. With the headlights and radio on it read 13.40V. According to the Bentley this is a bit low, but is it enough to cause my issues? I also wiggled the key around in the ignition while it was running but it had no effect. Jiggled the wires to the ignition switch as well. More shaking than any uneven pavement would ever cause. I don't think the ignition switch is the culprit.

So, disappointingly it's put away for the season with a host of tests I couldn't get to in time. I'll have to get back at it in the spring. Maybe Santa will fix it for me while I'm sleeping...


Okay, so your going to be stuborn and not check out the book, so I will post one of the tests for you, Wink

quote,
Check the ignition switch ''start'' position.
Connect a 12 volt test lamp or voltmeter between the starter post of the solenoid and ground. Turn the ignition switch to the ''start'' position and jiggle the key.
If the lamp doesn't light or the meter needle doesn't move when the switch is turned, check the ignition switch for loose connections, cracked insulation, or broken wires. Repair or replace as necessary.
If the lamp flickers or needle moves when the key is jiggled, replace the ignition switch.''

I will post the other test later.

PS - don't be a pussy, you live in alberta, when have winter 8-9 months of the year. Laughing
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Crushie, but are you sure the key should be in the 'start' position and not just the 'on' position? My bus starts just fine.

Also, you're more than welcome to come by and give me a hand, since you love the cold so much. Very Happy
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crushie
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AB westy nut wrote:
Thanks Crushie, but are you sure the key should be in the 'start' position and not just the 'on' position? My bus starts just fine.

Also, you're more than welcome to come by and give me a hand, since you love the cold so much. Very Happy


That test is for the ignition switch which may be causing your problem.
The fact that your bus starts is what it should do. Remember, we are testing the switch. And yes, the key should be in the start position for the test.

Test no. 2 for the ignition switch.
"Check the ignition switch "ON" position. Connect a jumper wire between the distributor side of the coil and ground, and a 12 volt test light between the switch side of the coil and ground. Remove the high tension lead from the coil.
Turn the ignition switch on and jiggle the key.''
If the lamp lights, your switch is fine, if the lamp flickers while you jiggle the key replace the switch.
If the lamp doesn't light, check for loose or open connections. If none are found, remove the ignition switch and check for continuity. If the switch is faulty, replace it.

If both these tests check out fine the switch may not be your problem.

I have worked on my bus during the winter several times. Not the most fun I have ever had that's for sure. And I would drop by and help but the 3 or so hour drive to get there is a bit of a hindrance. Wink
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, I thought I'd fire this thread up again as I don't want to leave it open ended. I recently woke the bus up from it's winter hibernation and, surprisingly, it has yet to repeat the bucking/hesitation problems from last year. I took it out one day last week and did a lot of city driving with no issues. Yesterday we did a little 75 mile trip into the foothills and it ran flawlessly. There are still a host of tests that I'd like to perform so I'll keep updating this thread as I go. It would be nice to think that the winter storage somehow miraculously cured the issue, but I have my doubts...
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AB westy nut wrote:
Hey guys, I thought I'd fire this thread up again as I don't want to leave it open ended. I recently woke the bus up from it's winter hibernation and, surprisingly, it has yet to repeat the bucking/hesitation problems from last year. I took it out one day last week and did a lot of city driving with no issues. Yesterday we did a little 75 mile trip into the foothills and it ran flawlessly. There are still a host of tests that I'd like to perform so I'll keep updating this thread as I go. It would be nice to think that the winter storage somehow miraculously cured the issue, but I have my doubts...


I hate to be a wet blanket, but I've been trying to track down an intermittent miss issue for the past few years and every time I park it for a extended period of time its like nothing was ever wrong but then it comes back soon after.

By the way, did you ever check your voltage regulator?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:10 am    Post subject: Spark Reply with quote

When my bus was hiccupping bucking and hesitating, I checked my spark. I thought it was fine. But, in checking my bug spark, I noticed that I couldn't check for spark without getting the shiz shocked out of me- and realized I had really weak spark on the bus. SO- in the end, my problem was my coil/ condenser. I replaced both, and spark was immediately MUCH stronger. I haven't had any problems this spring.

I did check my spark back when I was having all my issues, but thought I had "good spark", as it was "blue" not yellow or orange, but I figured it out when I saw a "good" spark on my bug. I forgot how strong it was.

Just my 2 cents.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:09 pm    Post subject: Re hesitation Reply with quote

Hi there
I had the same problems on my 77 westfalia
I did the same tests to chase the same problem
Turned out to be the air flow meter
I had one from an 82 Vanagon that I put in and it has worked fine since
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. I just picked up a spare AFM which I'll try if and when the hesitations kick up again.
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mid-summer update: I've been putting on about 100 miles every weekend so far this summer. Conditions are usually the same when I set out; sunny and dry and about 22C. Not once had it hesitated or bucked up until this past Sunday, when about 15 minutes down the highway it stumbled slightly for about 10 seconds. Then all was fine again for the rest of the trip. Sorry if this is sounding like a broken record but I'm just wanting to keep the thread going until I find a solution. I'm going to install and adjust the spare AFM this weekend to see if that cures it. The problem is, the stumble is so infrequent and random that if it's not the AFM it may be weeks before the issue reappears. Sure makes for a tough diagnosis. Whatever it is, it seems the combination of all the little things I've tested/checked/tightened/adjusted/replaced has lessened the severity of the issue. If you recall, last summer there were times when it was nearly un-drivable and it would hesitate & buck nearly every time I took it out. Stay tuned...
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to sound like a broken record either, but I had the EXACT symptoms that you have. It would go underground for long periods of time only to resurface and repeat the sequence with no predictive pattern. Sometimes it was a minor hesitation for a only a second then it would behave perfectly for several weeks. Every time I thought I had solved the problem(coil, TS II, etc.), it would return, as if the bus had malicious intent. It finally got so bad last summer that I could no longer drive it. I began to hate my bus.

I think I tried to get help both here and a multi page thread on the IAC site.

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11517

I will hazard a guess and say that this problem will not fix itself.

I have also come to realize after reading countless threads that nearly every one of these bucking issues seems to have its own unique cause and solution.

On a dark night of hair pulling and cursing in my driveway a friend discovered my problem and it has been smooth sailing ever since.

To refresh your memory it was the all too simple negative battery cable making a very poor (paint and sand) connection with the chassis.

I am sure you have checked and rechecked everything that you can think of. I am still betting that there is some bad or weak electrical connection somewhere that is giving the FI system fits. I hope you can track it down soon.
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I totally agree with your thinking that it's a cracked or corroded wire somewhere in the system. I replaced the negative battery strap with a brand new one a few weeks ago but clearly wasn't the culprit. I also purchased a new Wolfsburg West positive cable but it was way too short (anyone else run into this?) so I think I'll have to make my own as I can't seem to find one the right length.
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AB westy nut
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like to give what I hope is the final update on my intermittent miss/hesitation issue. About a month ago I replaced the AFM with a good spare and so far, after about 400 miles of driving, the issue hasn't returned. Crossing my fingers that this is the end of the ordeal!
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope this is the cure AB! I'm having the same problem and I'm gonna try a different AFM tomorrow. Fingers crossed
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to chime in that I had the same bucking symptoms that slowly worsened over time, and it too was a worn out AFM wiper track. Every time I fixed something else I thought it was running better but it always came back. But now at least I know my ignition and fuel system are in tip top shape!

It only seemed to do it warm. Which is odd when you think about it. I suppose because the worn out AFM causes lean running and when cold, the TSII makes everything rich and masks the symptoms.
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