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sixer
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014
Posts: 88
Location: Charleston, SC
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 Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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I replaced the injector seals a few months ago, and re-used them this time. To be honest, one fell off while installing and I didn't catch it, so that was the first thing I had to fix after reinstalling the engine. I sent the injectors to Cruzin' Performance for cleaning and testing, and they sent them back with all new seals.
I inspected all hoses then replaced/repaired them as needed. Same with the little elbow into the AAR and other bits and pieces. All of them seem to be tight on their fittings. The vast majority of vacuum lines seemed to be original or at least REALLY old (as well as a few of the fuel lines). Seriously wondering how the engine ran as well as it did. Come to think of it, when I did the first tune-up, it was timed way advanced (like 20° BTDC at idle), and that was covering some vacuum leak symptoms. Timing is 7.5° BTDC now at idle, although I can't confirm the RPM as I have no tach.
I will check the bypass screw position first thing once I get out there tomorrow. I assume the Bentley has adjustment procedures to follow?
Thanks again for the help!
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1976 Transporter, Stock 2.0L
http://instagram.com/sixer.bus/ |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 52918
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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| sixer wrote: |
| ........ The vast majority of vacuum lines seemed to be original or at least REALLY old (as well as a few of the fuel lines)......... |
I hope you replaced them, if not better keep a bag of marshmallows in the glove box 
The bypass doesn't have a standard setting, each engine is different, to set it correctly you'll need a Co meter but if one or both are currently near maximum adjustment odds are you can improve things with some driveway fiddling.
As for the timing here's some tips that only require a timing light (don't F with that until you get it idling).
| busdaddy wrote: |
First you need to determine exactly where TDC is on your pulley and then set the timing at speed like this: Here's my timing for noobs rundown (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel, timing scale or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you don't understand the marks on your type 1 pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ). Or if type 4 see this: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was connected to the nipple facing the distributor (retard). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb/FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment. |
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sixer
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014
Posts: 88
Location: Charleston, SC
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Did a little more checking during lunch. Smoking the lines again revealed a leak from the bottom of one of the intake manifold sleeves. It had folded over into itself during installation. Fixed that, and the engine now idles quite well!
Now that it's idling again, I'll re-check timing. There is a slight hesitation when increasing RPM's and some mild popping when coming back down - another small vacuum leak?
_________________
1976 Transporter, Stock 2.0L
http://instagram.com/sixer.bus/ |
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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5173
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:06 am Post subject: |
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| sixer wrote: |
Did a little more checking during lunch. Smoking the lines again revealed a leak from the bottom of one of the intake manifold sleeves. It had folded over into itself during installation. Fixed that, and the engine now idles quite well!
Now that it's idling again, I'll re-check timing. There is a slight hesitation when increasing RPM's and some mild popping when coming back down - another small vacuum leak? |
Did you previousl set the timing with those last two vacuum leaks undetected? Said another way, could the timing have been set up with those unkown vacuum leaks? If so, then now your timing would be off, I would guess. Now that you have the vacuum leaks fixed, reset your timing before being concerned about the popping. |
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sixer
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014
Posts: 88
Location: Charleston, SC
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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Updating this thread so if anyone finds it in the future while searching, the answer is here.
Symptoms: '76 2.0L FI engine starts fine and idles fine until warmed up, then dies and won't stay running. Unplugging the AFM allows the engine to idle quite well even when warmed up.
Notable things found and resolved to fix symptoms:
1) Injector seal fell off during installation. Replaced seal.
2) Vacuum leak under oil breather can. Cut and installed cork gasket.
3) Vacuum leak where intake manifold boot folded into itself when the intake tubes were installed on to the air plenum. It was of course on the bottom side, so it wasn't noticeable until smoke came out. Just rotated it around to the top, then fixed it.
4) Some idiot forgot to hook up the alternator. Hooked up alternator, reprimanded idiot.
Tools bought/made to find problems: Vacuum system smoke generator thing.
Relevant pics below. My wife did a write-up over on our blog as well, if you'd like a bit more of the story: http://ofwindsandwater.blogspot.com/2015/02/the-seventh-circle-of-vacuum-leak-hell.html
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1976 Transporter, Stock 2.0L
http://instagram.com/sixer.bus/ |
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