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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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 Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
The term "speaker wire" can mean a lot of different things.
It is not uncommon for car audio "speaker wire" to be copper covered aluminum (CCA) wire as opposed to 100% copper (sometime labeled OFC for "oxygen free copper). Since aluminum is cheaper than copper, you can buy heavier gauge wire in CCA at a much lower cost than high quality copper wire. Many people in the car audio scene preach the "bigger is better" philosophy, with no regard for the material that their wires are made of. In general terms, a pure copper wire can safely carry the same amount of current as a CCA wire one gauge larger. In other words:
10AWG CCA = 12AWG Copper
8AWG CCA = 10AWG Copper
6AWG CCA = 8AWG Copper
Whenever I purchase wire from a new supplier, I measure the diameter of the wire and compare it to American Wire Gauge specs. It is very common for "car audio wire" to have a significantly undersized conductor and a very thick insulation jacket to make it look more substantial than it really is.
Other important considerations for power wires for automotive use include:
Abrasion resistance of insulating jacket
Maximum operating temperature of the insulating jacket
Resistance to oils and solvents found in the automotive environment
The supply wire to your fuse block needs to be large enough to carry the total load of the circuits powered from the fuse block. To determine this, you need to add up the wattage of all of the accessories you will be using and divide that number by 12 (Amps = Watts / Volts). Alternatively, you can wire the fuse block to support the maximum rated capacity, which is 100A in this case. The minimum recommended wire size for 100A would be 6AWG of high quality copper wire.
Be sure to add a fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery positive post as possible. A protective covering like corrugated plastic loom is also a good idea on wires that will be carrying a lot of current.
The wires from the fuse block to your accessories should be sized according to an ampacity chart as well. In general, I use the following as rough guidelines:
0-5A - 18AWG
5-10A - 16AWG
10-15A - 14AWG
15-20A - 12AWG
20-30A - 10AWG
If you decide to purchase one of the Renogy 100W solar kits, be sure to get one with a negative ground charge controller. The lower priced kits come with a positive ground controller that is aimed more at small stand alone battery systems than automotive/RV use. |
So I ended up going by west marine, as they seemed like the best place locally to get decent wire.
Got this stuff:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--duplex-wire-by-the-foot--P009_274_003_002
Went with 8GA from the battery to the Blue Seas Box
And 10GA from the box to my accessory ports, LEDs etc.
I calculated the loads that I would have at most, and slightly over rated them:
Laptop chargers 4A x 2 = 8A
ARB Fridge = 2A
Cell charge = 2A
LED = 3A
Total is 15A and I doubt all of these will be running at the same time, probably never actually. So I think ill be just fine with 8GA.
But Im still a bit confused when sizing the fuses for inside the blue sea box when there connected to the blue seas 12v ports. Should I size them to the largest device I will be pulling into that specific port, then just label them (laptop, phone etc?). I assume this is correct.
Thanks again for all your help. Im almost done!
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 12:55 am Post subject: |
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You should be fine with the 8AWG from the battery to the fuse block. Did you install a fuse on the wire as close to the battery positive post as possible? This fuse would protect from the possibility of overloading the fuse new block. A MIDI fuse holder with a 60A fuse should be good for this.
The 10AWG is going to be overkill for most of your accessories, but it can't hurt anything. You power ports should never have anything larger than a 15A fuse installed to protect them.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:42 am Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
You should be fine with the 8AWG from the battery to the fuse block. Did you install a fuse on the wire as close to the battery positive post as possible? This fuse would protect from the possibility of overloading the fuse new block. A MIDI fuse holder with a 60A fuse should be good for this.
The 10AWG is going to be overkill for most of your accessories, but it can't hurt anything. You power ports should never have anything larger than a 15A fuse installed to protect them. |
No I did not, ill pick one up! Thanks. Assume a AGU fuse holder would work? I have one already.
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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AGU fuse will be fine.
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great!
Be sure to put some good threadlock on the set screws that hold the large cables into the battery terminals. I have had several of these set screws loosen over time and allow the cables to get loose to the point that they were backing out of the terminals. A 0AWG power cable can do some pretty serious spontaneous welding if it finds its way to ground.
Very impressive installation!!!
_________________
Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
Looks great!
Be sure to put some good threadlock on the set screws that hold the large cables into the battery terminals. I have had several of these set screws loosen over time and allow the cables to get loose to the point that they were backing out of the terminals. A 0AWG power cable can do some pretty serious spontaneous welding if it finds its way to ground.
Very impressive installation!!! |
Good call I'll do that. For what it is, it's simple minus the 10 runs to the marine store for connectors, wire etc.
If anyone has questions in the future don't hesitate to PM me. I'll post an update on battery usage etc after I do a road trip.
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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MattBenson
Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2015
Posts: 36
Location: Orlando
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| Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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Super clean! I am currently trying to design my own auxiliary power supply for my van, which will include a solar panel and controller at a later date. Right now I am just focused on an auxiliary battery and an inverter to safely charge my Mac stuff. I'm not super savvy when it comes to electric wiring so there is quite a steep learning curve. But thank God for the Samba and for threads like yours!
Just curious, and this might seem like a dumb question, but what is the battery charger for? Are you not just charging your aux. battery via the alternator with an isolator/combiner connected to the starter battery? |
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dlb154
Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Reno, NV
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| Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:05 pm Post subject: Re: Power Generator? vs Battery & Inverter? |
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I'm curious if anyone has followed Jay Brown's parts list to make a power generator (either solar charged or shore power charged)?
I'm looking at doing this as a portable power system rather than modifying my Westfalia.
Since I drive mine frequently, I don't like the idea of carrying a battery and solar panels all the time. Having it all portable allows move versatility and use around home too.
Looking for someone's build experience to glean from.
Thanks! |
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WestyWanter
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2017
Posts: 459
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: Power Generator? vs Battery & Inverter? |
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I've been exploring the idea of building a DIY generator with some 18650 batteries because I like the idea of a modular set up to take in an out of my van (86 weekender) being the limited cabinet space. I'm curious how some people have compared them to using the aux set up?
My goals are:
Run 12v cig accessories/usb items
Use standard house plugs 120v?
Run a small air compressor
Aux lights
Radio
I'm looking at modular because I can charge it at home prior to leaving, also with an isolator charge it with alternator when van is running, and finally charge via solar....
Can someone point me in the right direction please |
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SSWesty
Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2008
Posts: 735
Location: Bellevue
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| Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Power Generator? vs Battery & Inverter? |
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My goals are:
Run 12v cig accessories/usb items
Use standard house plugs 120v?
Run a small air compressor
Aux lights
Radio |
I have the ability to do the above with a 40amp battery under the drivers seat without supplementing with solar. The real question is how many amps do you intend to draw. I run a small 12 volt harbor freight compressor to air up our tires after being aired down for off-road travels. This is very different than running a small pancake compressor that might be used on a construction job site. It would be best to know what amp draw you need since that will influence the system design. |
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Paulbeard
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2015
Posts: 2611
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:14 pm Post subject: Re: Power Generator? vs Battery & Inverter? |
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| SSWesty wrote: |
I have the ability to do the above with a 40amp battery under the drivers seat without supplementing with solar. The real question is how many amps do you intend to draw. I run a small 12 volt harbor freight compressor to air up our tires after being aired down for off-road travels. This is very different than running a small pancake compressor that might be used on a construction job site. It would be best to know what amp draw you need since that will influence the system design. |
If everyone who considered solar started here ☝🏻 the net increase in sanity worldwide would be measurable.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs
— dhaavers |
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