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Easy's '58 walk through panel build
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you do the install from front to back? That is how I recommend it. One, because it is easier to tap the cab roof panels all the way forward when the middle roof panel is not in place. Two, because of the fit issue you are finding now. I suspect the middle roof panel could have been moved back a tad?
There are two lengths of the camper area roof panels, the SO-42 style . which has the front edge on the middle of the metal bow, and the earlier style, which has the front edge just behind the metal bow. The cab roof panel is shorter on the SO-42 style, and original ones look like they were regular kombi ones cut shorter with a razor knife.
The earlier style camper cab roof panel goes to the back of the metal bow.

If it was just a tad off I am guessing you put the middle roof panel in first?

Here are a couple pics of original install cab roof panels in a 1958 w/t panelvan.
It looks to me they reach a tad behind the metal roof bow towards the air vent.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


easy e wrote:


The forward wood ceiling piece was set back a little too far... because the cab ceiling cards were a fuzz too long. You can see a little bit of the forward wood bow & shouldn't be able to. I had to trim either the rear of the cab cards or the forward part of the wood ceiling panel. When looking at the rear metal ceiling bow & with the wood ceiling panel installed... the panel was sitting a little far back, so I opted to get it to sit in the middle of the bow (trim forward part of ceiling panel). It turned out good. This next pic shows me scoring it in place (will be covered by the aluminum trim strip). Cutting it in place with a razor knife was a little sketchy... one slip & yikes!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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easy e
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Did you do the install from front to back? That is how I recommend it.
Yep

Quote:
I am guessing you put the middle roof panel in first?
Nope, cab 1st & worked back.

Quote:
I suspect the middle roof panel could have been moved back a tad?
Moving middle panel rearward would have exacerbated the gap by the air vent, which is what I wanted to minimize (so I wouldn't see the bow).

Quote:
There are two lengths of the camper area roof panels, the SO-42 style . which has the front edge on the middle of the metal bow, and the earlier style, which has the front edge just behind the metal bow. The cab roof panel is shorter on the SO-42 style, and original ones look like they were regular kombi ones cut shorter with a razor knife.
The earlier style camper cab roof panel goes to the back of the metal bow.
I had the earlier style cab & ceiling panels... cab panels extended to the back of the front metal bow (looked just like your pics when installed).... and rear of middle panel was just about centered at the back metal bow.

Quote:
It looks to me they reach a tad behind the metal roof bow towards the air vent.
. It looked that way because when I took the pic I was forward of the seam... just a perspective trick on the eyes. This pic is from directly below. Rear of cab panels is dead flush with back of metal bow. I think the ~1/4" recess at the air vent could be half as deep for early style (1/8" recess). If I had it to do again... I would have chamfered the front of the front wood bow... at the vent area and/or painted the wood there black. Then the bow would have disappeared a little more. Seems like a little gap is needed to maintain ability to remove fresh air grate.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If I hadn't already installed the screws in the cab panels, I probably would have moved the trim strip over to favor the cab panel. Then it would have eliminated the need for the cab panel screws & would have looked a little cleaner. But seeing the round indents from the finishing washers in the ceiling cards would have bugged me.
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am thinking if you have short cab ceiling panels you should have the notch in the foward cargo area panel. (because the foward cargo area ceiling panel is longer, and extends farther foward toward the front of the bus).

Longer, kombi/panel style cab ceiling panels, would require a straight cut edge on the foward cargo area panel. (foward cargo area ceiling panel is shorter and almost even with the metal roof bow, just enough for the rear vent cover to hide the edge of the panel).

Does that sound right?

There are ~200 small screws used on the Westy wall panels. The pattern you followed looks correct for a 58. Westfalia starting using less screws around 61 (if anyone knows a more exact date please post it).

That interior is looking great; with that many layers of bubblewrap and the paneling it should be super quiet and insulated.
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easy e
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara & I discussed variations in cab ceiling panels. The one's I have in the cab fit great!

A straight cut across the front would have worked too, but might have had a little interference with the fresh air grate. I'm veryhappy with the overall fit. It's tough... everything's convex.

The rear corners are a PITA... eventually....

The layers of bubble wrap has quieted it down a lot. It really needs the rear seat & some cushions all back there.

I just got the front part of the seat base back from a woodworker buddy. I have an 8" sub that'll be under the back seat & I'm putting a couple 8" drivers in that seat base, forward facing. I didn't' want typical ugly speaker grilles down there... so, I'll be stretching some new vintage looking amplifier cloth over some 1/8" ABS that I'll trim to fit the opening.

Here's a couple pics... just need to cut the 8" holes & mount speakers to the backside.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I just finished modifying a passenger side rear seat hinge over the weekend. The typical passenger side seat hinge is set up to mount to the closet. I had to modify the hinge to basically be a mirror image of the driver's side & make an extra driver's side arm rest into a passenger side one. Full with rear seat/bed!! For the bed/seat.... I had to get outta the 50's & into the 60's Cool
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the full width Westy beds from 74 and 75 bays will fit right into a split. I put one into a 69 bay and the hinges are meant to mount to the wheel wells.
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easy e
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That'd be good to know ^^^^

I was rummaging the swap meets & got a good deal. I found a spare arm rest & an extra underneath bracket that sits on the ledge. I think I'll use three of those brackets. I didn't mind having to do a little cut, bend, weld. Chop saw helped a lot.
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Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
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easy e
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Easy's '58 walk through panel build Reply with quote

Not a whole lot going on lately with finishing it up... but I was replacing my rubber full flow hoses with braided 8-AN stuff & cracked my oil pump cover from over tightening the 3/8" NPT.

Ordered another pump cover & pulley puller. Brick wall

While I have time to kill...
I put a couple Ronal Kleeblatt wheels on the front, using the original lug nuts. I'm working on getting some new ones. Also got off the 135 pizza cutters up front & bumped it up a notch to 145's.

I used 8mm spacers. The Porsche grease cap OD is very close to the ID of the wheel center ID & it seemed as though there would be interference. Might use Porsche caps later?

I'm happy so far, I think the wheel color goes well enough.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List
“They are about as worthless as the tits on the boars that live in the woods behind their junk yard.” -Weatherly
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jamesjones
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 12:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Easy's '58 walk through panel build Reply with quote

Any chance you can post pics of how you ran the wiring for you stereo? Through the body, down the frame etc...

I'm starting the stereo install on my double cab and would like to borrow some of your ideas.
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easy e
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Easy's '58 walk through panel build Reply with quote

I can't get pics right now (raining)... but here's what I did:

2nd battery, Yandina battery charger/isolator, battery only for stereo / dome lights.
Power from batt. went to distribution block under back seat.
Power to head unit & amp on/off signal went up the right side frame rail, with the rest of the wiring.
RCAs from head unit to amp were zip tied to brake line on left side frame rail. (Keep power separate from music signal)

Hope it helps & will take pics / verify what I said when I get a break in the weather.
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Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
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jamesjones
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Easy's '58 walk through panel build Reply with quote

Awesome man. Thanks for the info. Pics would be great if you get a chance. I can't wait to get started on my stereo build. Just waiting on a few more things.
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