Brake Cleaner or Acetone?

[epowell]

For general clean up work of engine grime from old caked oil leaks on the block... and also preparing shafts and plates for new engine seals... are Brake Cleaner (spray) and acetone (on a clean rag) basically interchangable, or is one preferred over the other?

Thanks
Ed
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[Steve M.]

Both will give you cancer so there nothing safe in either one.
However, Acetone will leave a residue. You cannot see it, but it is there. Brake cleaner does not leave a residue. If your wanting to use something to clean a sealing surface that you are going to use an RTV Form-A-Gasket sealant then my choice is Brake Cleaner.

Now having said that many people have used Acetone for sealing surfaces over the years and not had a problem, but no ones gone around and done a survey why some engine seals leak and some don't.

[Wellington]

acetone loves to eat platics.................AVOID

[Dampcamper]

Acetone evaporates really quickly, the vapors are quite flammable. I usually use acetone for the final cleaning on parts I want no oily residue on.
Brake cleaners (as aerosol sprays) come in the "traditional" flavor which is basically dry-cleaning fluid (maybe trichloroethane- NOT - carbon tetrachloride, that's been outlawed for many years) or in the slightly less toxic and slightly more environmentally friendly green cans, these tend towards lighter but aggressive solvents.
None of these are good for you, have plenty of ventilation and don't work near flames or hot things, wear nitrile rubber gloves, maybe some "barrier cream" on your hands. The vapors of most of these are heavier than air so if you're under your car you will get the full effect.
I often use naptha (or Coleman fuel) for initial degrutting, paint thinner works, diesel can work too but then you have a cruddy liquid that can be hard to properly dispose of. Lacquer thinner works and it smells sweet while you're ruining your liver and kidneys.
There is the good old-fashioned Automotive Solvent (which is virtually non-flammable) but it can be hard to find a bulk vendor, the place I used to get it was a heating-oil distributor but they closed up shop.
Again, protect your skin, any of these can absorb into your skin and cause problems.

[epowell]

Thanks so much guys... all this helps me a lot > and the main consideration it seems is safety!

THANKS!
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[djkeev]

For initial heavy cleaning?
A hot water Power Washer can't be beat!

"Friendly" grease cleaner? Here in the States we have "Simple Green" which works quite well on many soils.

Use brake cleaner sparingly........ NOT nice stuff!
Also do NOT ever use it to clean metal you will be welding! Super NOT nice stuff!

Dave
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[svenakela]

There's a better solution; citrus based cleaner. They dissolve oil and grease super easy and doesn't kill your plastic or paint. I use it a lot to remove masking tape glue from painting masks and grease spots before clear coating. I tried it just out of curiousity on an engine block and one go and a rinse, totally clean!
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[epowell]

Wow, great! ...this thread is already a great resource!
Thanks!
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[Ahwahnee]

Simple Green and Purple Power do a good job but at full strength can damage painted surfaces.

Mineral spirits (aka paint thinner) can be pretty effective w/o harming finishes. It is also less volatile so you get more work time than acetone.

I also use acetone depending on the surface as its quick evaporation can sometimes be an advantage.

Or just buy whatever has the longest warning label, preferably something "Known to the State of California... etc".

[Butcher]

Brake clean is not good for carbon cleaning. Carburetor cleaner works much better.

Pressure washing works best along with this. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/oil-eater-cleaner-deg...mp;veh=sem Costco has it too and that is where I purchase it. When your done with a pressure washer, you will not have any grease/oil. Much much better than simple green or any other mild cleaner. Works great on wheels too. No more brake dust film.

[Wildthings]

WD-40 will do a fair job as a cleaner as will some other spray oils. Having solvent in a spray bottle container is nice. I save brake cleaner and acetone for final clean ups when I need a really dry surface for some goop to adhere to.



As a general rule it is better to prevent oil leaks in the first place than to have to clean them up.

[jack-o-van]

I use "low odor" or "odorless" mineral spirits because it works well and is less toxic (according to the woodworking world's wisdom) than original mineral spirits, and it's cheap. If I want to get off all residue I then clean it with acetone. I believe that is also nontoxic - I used it in college organic chemistry labs in California and we didn't need PPE. Acetone does not leave a residue - that's why we used it to clean glassware in organic chemistry.

[AndyBees]

If possible, I use the pressure washer followed by about any of the cleaners, solvents already mentioned.

I recently pressure washed the Power Steering unit from 89 Vanagon before doing the rebuild. The pressure wash removed about 95% of the junk that was on the unit.

Caution: a pressure washer can destroy a seal in an instant. It can also inject water past the seal and contaminate the inside of whatever you're working on..
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[Zeitgeist 13]

I use full strength Simple Green, but just remember to wash it off or it will tarnish zinc, cadmium and nickel platings.
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[MsTaboo]

Mineral sprits for heavy stuff, Simple Green for lighter.
Alcohol is a good choice for a final clean before gaskets, etc. works as good as acetone and less toxic.
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[stuzbot]

For wiping down greasy surfaces, I use Acetone. It's cheap and efficient. As to cancer-causing properties, well I've heard and read lots about brake cleaner being nasty stuff. This is the first time I've heard claims of Acetone being anywhere near as dodgy.

At the end of the day, Acetone is just nail varnish remover. If it was *that* dangerous, I'm sure there'd be more warnings on those wee bottles the missus buys from the makeup counter.

Anyway, doesn't everything give you cancer, these days? :?

For another really effective two-part gunk removing procedure, you can try Petrol followed by Meths. Although, for obvious safety reasons, I only ever use this on parts I can remove from the engine and take away to clean elsewhere.

A splash of petrol in a jam-jar and a scrub with an old paintbrush will remove even really thick oily gunk. The petrol itself will leave a slight residue but that can then be easily wiped off with a rag soaked in Meths [which I think is what you lot call 'rubbing alcohol' or 'denatured alcohol'] –the stuff that goes in your camping stove.
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[Abscate]

Acetone is dangerous with respect to fire and health. It is not benign just because it is a consumer product.

From the MSDS

Potential Chronic Health Effects:
CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: A4 (Not classifiable for human or animal.) by ACGIH. MUTAGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. TERATOGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: Classified Reproductive system/toxin/female, Reproductive system/toxin/male [SUSPECTED]. The substance is toxic to central nervous system (CNS). The substance may be toxic to kidneys, the reproductive system, liver, skin. Repeated or prolonged exposure to the substance can produce target organs damage.
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[JudoJeff]

svenakela is correct, the oil squeezed out of citrus rinds, called d’limolene (spelling?) is an awesome degreaser. I used it 100% for years. Orange-solve is trade name and is around 5%. Very safe and won’t hurt environment.

Acetone is a weak solvent. Yellow acetone aka carb cleaner, much better. Brake cleaner is stronger, but has too many quick evaporators. (Vapors that rise). Engine degreasers are the opposite, they slowly evaporate.

So, just be aware:
1) avoid skin contact and vapors
2) flammable vapors travel, especially across the floor, and go boom when they reach a pilot light on hot water tank.
3) use only in well ventilated areas

Very strong solvents you can buy are methyl ethyl ketone, (MEK), and toluene.
Better for soaking parts in a closed container than gasoline.
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[calo1956]

I like to use Prepsol in a spray can, its a good general purpose cleaner, and of coarse the preferred cleaner before painting.
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