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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 23136 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:47 pm Post subject: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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I seem to mention/warn about this issue whenever mysterious and plentiful bell housing oil leakage is the topic.
Too many times I just do not have all of the items in front of me to make it easy to take pictures of.
So I am building a 1.8L for someone right now for their 412 variant. This may or may not be the original case for that car but it is known to be from a 412.
It is an EA series. And while most of the case # lists show EB and EC for 1.8L and California 1.8L respectively....for the bus....I have found that not to be accurate for the 412.
Over the years I have found more than a handful of known to be original cases with 1974 412 cars with 1.8L L-jet that were very close to the line between late 1973 with D-jet and early 1974...that came with EA series cases.
Anyway...thats not the point right now.
This case came with the deep seal recess...12mm. I also have one case from a early 412 with the 10mm seal recess and one with a 12mm recess.
I have never been able to collect enough corresponding data to say when this started or why.
And.....this is what a deep seal recess versus a shallow seal recess looks like:
The case in question:
The new Viton Elring seal provided...part # 029 105 245 B.....measurements and data on seal read: 7.5 X 95 X 10 FPM/APM
The seal fit in the case when pushed in flush
Now....the correct fitting seal I have always found for these cases...to not cause a MASSIVE oil leak at highway rpms (seems to seal ok at low rpms in traffic) is 021 105 245 C...and is technically a Vanagon part. Note the part # prefix change.
Its seal data reads 7.5 X 95 X 12 LF
Here is the 12mm seal fit in the same case when pushed in flush.
The rhyme or reason for this seal depth/thickness change? Hmmmm.
Now this is purely speculation....I just do not yet have enough data to back it up....but with the engine case in question it is known that it came in a chassis with a 003 automatic transmission.
So looking at the flex plate for this transmission....bearing in mind that it does not have a radius like a flywheel....I measured the depth of the snout and it is 0.615" (with just a quick snap measurement with a cheap caliper).
The 12mm seal applied to the snout of the flex-plate and brought up to the faint wear/grease line that the last seal left on it.
The snout of the flywheel from a manual transmission happens to be 0.523" to the start of the radius.
Thats a difference of 2.33mm...which allowing the seal to ride just onto the radius about .010" to .015"....leaves a difference of right at 2mm.
Perhaps the deeper seal recess was used on engines that were destined for automatic trans cars (at least maybe in 411/412). Anyway...later I will inspect my 412 case that is known to have come from the factory with a four speed....and see what it had.
The real point of all of this is....when you are changing seals...if your engine was not built with its original case and you do not know what kind of vehicle it came from...check your seal recess depth and buy the correct seal.
Ray |
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Spike0180 Samba Member

Joined: June 06, 2015 Posts: 2269 Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:28 am Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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Awesome information. Thank you ray. _________________ Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic" |
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hazetguy Samba Member

Joined: April 06, 2001 Posts: 10799 Location: iT StiNgeD iTseLf tO dEAd
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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another way to avoid massive oil leaks is to be sure the seating surface on the flywheel or flex plate does not have that worn groove as seen in the above pic, that the surface is extremely smooth with no pits, and that the seal does not ride in that groove if you are doing an emergency type repair. different seating seals will ride on different flywheel surfaces, so if you do have a groove, a deeper or not deeper seal might help in the short term. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52338
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:59 am Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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hazetguy wrote: |
another way to avoid massive oil leaks is to be sure the seating surface on the flywheel or flex plate does not have that worn groove as seen in the above pic, that the surface is extremely smooth with no pits, and that the seal does not ride in that groove if you are doing an emergency type repair. different seating seals will ride on different flywheel surfaces, so if you do have a groove, a deeper or not deeper seal might help in the short term. |
If the sealing surface is grooved then do a mock up to see where the seal fits on the flywheel. Install the seal in the engine and smear a very thin layer of grease on the flywheel seal surface. Install the flywheel and torque it down lightly. Now remove the flywheel and "read" the grease to figure out where the lips of the seal are going to run.
You can make adjustments to the depth of the seal to get it where the inner lip will sit either inboard or outboard of the wear mark. You of course need to make sure that the inner lip rides on the sealing surface and the outer lip doesn't butt against the back of the flywheel. I have had real good luck removing these seals without damaging them, you can just take an old rounded screwdriver and using a torch bend it so that it will hook up under the metal part of the seal and not damage the rubber. |
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busman78 Samba Member

Joined: August 17, 2004 Posts: 4659 Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:36 am Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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When a case that used the 12mm seal had a crank with a wear groove I would install a internal retaining ring that I bought from McMaster-Carr that would compress enough to be tight on the case, they were 1mm thick, perfectly flat, allowed spacing a 10mm seal at 11mm, also ended up with some 10mm seals that were really 9mm thick, two retaining rings, either way ended up with proper seal placement and no leaks. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 23136 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:30 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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busman78 wrote: |
When a case that used the 12mm seal had a crank with a wear groove I would install a internal retaining ring that I bought from McMaster-Carr that would compress enough to be tight on the case, they were 1mm thick, perfectly flat, allowed spacing a 10mm seal at 11mm, also ended up with some 10mm seals that were really 9mm thick, two retaining rings, either way ended up with proper seal placement and no leaks. |
Yes...I have done that! It does work well. You just have to be careful that it in no way can touch the shims. Its a thin retaining ring.
I did that when I first had issues fining a 12mm seal. Then...I started finding most of my 12mm seals in the all orange tropical silicone seal material....which is soooo much better quality...so I just use those.
The other issue from my original post....as I noted I was going to do....I checked my original engine case which came in my car with a 004 four speed from the factory. I wanted to see if engines that were slated for a manual trans had a shallower seal than the automatic slated engines.
well....another beautiful theory ...slain by data and facts....kind of.
So the EA case I am working on has the classic deep seal bore. right at 12.2mm.
Checking my other two readily at hand cases...also both EA series....one that came from a 1973 412 four door with 003 automatic measures 11.3mm.
From my notebook on that car....when using the stock 10mm seal...which can vary between 9mm and 10mm....it had chronic leakage at highway speed ...especially when the crank end play was closer to the top end of tolerance. It ran best when the shims were set dead on .003". Somewhere in the middle of owning it I swapped to a four speed with the same engine. Same issues.
The snout on both the flex plate and the flywheel(went back and forth between several flywheels over the years...each requiring slight adjusting to the shim pack) from the four speed were both clean, straight and no grooves.
The original case that came in my chassis with a four speed....measures 11.8...and always needs a 12mm seal...to seal well.
So..some small amount of taper to flywheel/flex plate snout?...possibly. I have 3-4 I can measure. Seal movement in case? possible. Fore and aft movement with more shim tolerance...screwing with seal contact? possible as well.
It is notable though...that when using the 12mm seal in a 12mm bore....or using a 10mm seal with a snap ring behind it....leakage not an issue. I am prone to think a combination of seal movement at some level and snout taper....are the issue.
I have always found the best sealing on these is the seal dead flush (and its got to be a good seal) or slightly proud of the case by no more than 1mm. Ray |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42539 Location: at the beach
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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totally not T4 but someone who dropped by last summer had a failed seal on a T1 because it was inserted flush and the tapered part of the flywheel was riding on the lip. When a new seal was inserted until it stopped, the lip sat on the flat part of the flywheel race and did not leak. I kinda wonder now if some of the leakage problems on these seals don't come from some of the seals riding too far out, onto the taper in the flywheel. Also, I had one leaking but the place it was leaking was the case part line. I could see the wet line where the oil had been coming out along the part line. Attempts to use any sealers in that area caused the seal to creep out. It was a VR orange. I notice that the Elring have a black rubber sealing area on the exterior, instead of the all silicone VR. The ribs look deeper too. The arrow points to where my orange VR was leaking.
_________________ "Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52338
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:51 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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SGKent wrote: |
totally not T4 but someone who dropped by last summer had a failed seal on a T1 because it was inserted flush and the tapered part of the flywheel was riding on the lip. When a new seal was inserted until it stopped, the lip sat on the flat part of the flywheel race and did not leak. I kinda wonder now if some of the leakage problems on these seals don't come from some of the seals riding too far out, onto the taper in the flywheel. Also, I had one leaking but the place it was leaking was the case part line. I could see the wet line where the oil had been coming out along the part line. Attempts to use any sealers in that area caused the seal to creep out. It was a VR orange. I notice that the Elring have a black rubber sealing area on the exterior, instead of the all silicone VR. The ribs look deeper too. The arrow points to where my orange VR was leaking.
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I just use a dab of permatex or other goo at the parting line. Never had problems with the seal walking out from doing that. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 23136 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4...10mm and 12mm crank seals |
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SGKent wrote: |
totally not T4 but someone who dropped by last summer had a failed seal on a T1 because it was inserted flush and the tapered part of the flywheel was riding on the lip. When a new seal was inserted until it stopped, the lip sat on the flat part of the flywheel race and did not leak. I kinda wonder now if some of the leakage problems on these seals don't come from some of the seals riding too far out, onto the taper in the flywheel. Also, I had one leaking but the place it was leaking was the case part line. I could see the wet line where the oil had been coming out along the part line. Attempts to use any sealers in that area caused the seal to creep out. It was a VR orange. I notice that the Elring have a black rubber sealing area on the exterior, instead of the all silicone VR. The ribs look deeper too. The arrow points to where my orange VR was leaking.
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Damn good question.
From my experience...what you describe IS primarily a type 1 issue....not saying it cannot happen wit ha type 4...but it would be rare.
That issue comes from the common practice of having to re-cut the thrust of the front main bearing on type 1. When you go to a bearing with a narrower thrust flange....the flywheel sits deeper in the bore relative to the seal which stays in the same place..unless you re-cut its bore too.
Cut deep enough or often enough and eventually you ride too far up the snout and too far up the radius of the flywheel.
I have never seen that issue happen on a type 4. Also the seal is designed to allow a portion of the radius to ride in the opening of the seal...unlike say my rear wheel bearing seal...whose outer lip is up high not far off of flush. If that type of seal were used on a type 4 crank and contacted any part of the radius it would shred the seal. Ray |
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