1500cc into 1200cc 1965 - any body mods?

[23sonic23]

Hi there,
I've got a 1965 1200cc that has been garaged since 1994 and am getting it back on the road as my oldest son is taking a keen interest! I swapped this to 12v back in 1988, but left the 6v starter in place against the original flywheel, which worked well for me.

I have the opportunity to purchase a complete 1500cc engine (circa 1970 vehicle - full tinwear, exhaust etc). I believe this engine will physically fit into the body shell and that I don't need to modify anything/change engine lid - though i was just reaching out to see if anyone could confirm that or not?

Hopefully all i need to do is swap the 6v 1200 flywheel onto the 1500 with correct sized clutch etc - or is there anything else i need to worry about (shims, setting end float?)

thanks in advance

p.s. This may look like post number 1, but i was originally a member of TheSamba some years ago. my email has now changed so can't relink to my old profile

Rich

[glutamodo]

You really have a 1500 that is still 1493cc? Since the early 70s the most common piston/cylinder kit was 1585cc and they bolt right onto the 1500 engine, so most of the original 83mm pistons/cylinders landed in a dumpster decades ago.

Yes, a 1500SP will fit into the engine compartment of a 65.

A "step" flywheel will fit onto a later "O-ring" crankshaft (you can't go the other way without having to have machine work done), but you'll have to replace the O-ring with a metal or paper base gasket.

Also, since nearly all VW engines with some miles on them, have some amount of play in the thrust bearing, it becomes problematic to set up endplay, since you can't measure endplay if the thrust bearing is not firmly fixed in place. Adding a paper or metal gasket under the flywheel will increase this play, so readjusting the endplay will likely need to be done. If yours has a solid thrust bearing, great! If not, well, since most VW engines, when rebuilt, are set up with proper endplay, you might be best to just measure how the end float as it is now with the O-ring flywheel and a moving thrust bearing, and then try to match it with the Step flywheel in place.
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Andy T.

"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!"

[Sharp64]

You could also just leave the 12v flywheel, swap to a 12v starter and clearance the trans.
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1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[4bolts]

Here is a good explanation of what Glutamodo is referring to about the stepped vs. o-ring flywheel. Note the 2nd post by Glutamodo...

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692467

I recently checked a 1600 I have and the thrust bearing was moving back and forth in the case.
The bearing in my 1500 is solid, so I'm using that engine in my '66 as I can shim it. It's .010 out right now, but easily shimmed. Trying to shim a moving thrust bearing is not healthy. It'll keep eating the case.

I would tug on the pulley to see if there is any movement. I've had several engines that had a little play that I thought I could shim and then realized the bearing ate the case after I purchased it.


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1966 Beetle - Euro
1965 Single Cab

[23sonic23]

Thanks everyone for all the great info. Much appreciated.
Rich