Need more guidance on engine removal. ASAP if possible.

[amishman]

OK, been working to take out my engine. Removed the bumper, the NON stock exhaust that was kinda in my way, the rear tin, disconnected all the cables and labeled them so I know where the need to go back to, plugged the gas line, removed the accelerator cable through the fan housing, and now was ready to move onto the 4 engine bolts.

I can see the two bottom ones and they seem accesible. I think I need to get a offset wrench though as I do not think a ratchet will fit in that area and I have a 17mm open end wrench but it is not offeset so seems a little hard to get a good grip. So, what wrenches do you all use to get the engine nuts off?

Now, the top nuts/bolts. How in the heck do I get to those. I can see the BOLT side from under the engine, one of them right next to the clutch arm, but do I need to hold that one somehow so the nut on the other end can be taken off. What the heck do I use to get up there?

2nd, I can't seem to find the TOP NUTS. Do I have to take the FRONT tin off? How do I do this with the engine in? I can't seem to find the front tin screws to remove so the tin would come off.

Any and all help would be great.

I am ALMOST there. Just need more encouragement and guidance for these engine bolts.

Should then engine be in NEUTRAL when I do pull then engine? I would think YES but wanted to check.

tj

[Grant]

you can do it! I believe in you.

[KombiMonster]

U can't put an Engine in neutural...but u can put the tranny in neutural ...You'll have to reach behind the shroud way down, and feel around for the nut......some do have 2 nuts......some have 1 nut on the starter bolt...and a bolt that threads into the case ont the drivers side...(clutch arm side)......Its a PITA the first time....maybe have someone else feel back there when u get upset.....

Good Luck!

When putting the motor back in....it helps to have the tranny in gear......so you can spin the wheel alittle to line the shaft grooves witht the clutch disk
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[amishman]

OK, found them. I guess I really need an offset box end wrench to get to it. Ratchet to fat and I do not trust an open end wrench. So off to the store to buy a 17mm box end offset wrench.

Curious, does the top BOLT need to be held from the backside to then get the nut off or does it lock into the case so I do not need to hold it. If it needs to be held, any tips on options to do that. I can't reach from the top of the engine and then be underneath to hold it too?

Any tips would be great.

tj

[KombiMonster]

ViseGrips!....then once u get it out...weld a small bolt to the head...so when u do it again...it will only spin half way before the small bolt catches tranny case or starter
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[amishman]

Well I should have said I found one top. My 1600DP has a dog house fan shroud so I can't access the top nut from the top. I guess I have to do from the bottom.

What advise can you offer to get the driver side top bolt out. This is a single cab I have. There appears to be VERY LITTLE room from the bottom side to get to that bolt. What fandangled tool will get me to that bolt and give me enough leverage to get it off. Is this a 1/2 ratchet with a real long extension on it? Even then, there seems so little room to work from. Especially since I am not jacked up. I have just enough room to get my body under there but not much more.

tj

[Partbug]

just think how good you are going to feel after its out

[Hornman]

Hang in there Amish. I've had a real frustrating day as well. You can get both top nuts from the top. I've a '67 Splitty with a later dog house shroud. My favorite tool is a short-ish open ended 17 mm. I've found that it's easier for me to get both of the top nuts with my right hand (arm); I'm right handed. I've got long, skinny arms...that helps. So, reach in like you're going after the nut on the right. But just keep on reaching over toward the left to get that one on the driver's side. It takes practice...unfortunately, I've had practice.
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Michael
1969 Fastback

[amishman]

[NAES]

Give the open ended wrench another try but get it as far as it will turn and then flip it over and use it again. That way it will be indexed differently each flip.

After you get it out, do yourself a favor and clean both nut and bolt thread really well so you can spin it on by hand and just do the final tighteening.

You can doooo eeeeeet!
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[j.pickens]

The original open end wrenches which come in the VW toolkit with the bus have the perfect profile for those nuts. They have a thin crossection, and are bent at just the right angle to get in there and turn those nuts. With the doghouse cooler, it can be a real bitch, and sometimes the bolt on the front (tranny) side is not a "D" bolt, so it will spin. You need either two people, one on the nut and one on the bolt, or you need to use a long ass extention on the tranny bolt to wedge the ratchet against the tranny to hold it whilst you crawl out and reach back for the engine side nut. Not fun at all. If you're real lucky, there is a fixed stud instead of a bolt in the upper driver's side mount point, but none of mine had that.
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[Chris21]

those top bolts can be killer. Just feel around for them, that's all we do. be the way, the engine doesn't have to be in neutral, but I don't think it matters if the tranny is, mine wasn't. Good luck dude!

[amishman]

The Idiots manual states the 1600 motors should have the top drivers side bolt threaded in the case so you would not be dealing with a nut on the backside. I sure hope mine is like that. I ran out of time and can't tinker with it today so she sits with 4 nuts to remove until I can get time again to go out there and give it a go. I am thinking about jacking in up so I can get my arms up from the tranny side and see if I can with a real long ratchet and extension get at the top bolt and hope for the best.

Will let you all know and thanks for the help.

tj

[j.pickens]

[pyrOman]

amish, you are new at this, aren't you?


"Feel" your way through it, it's not all that difficult. Don't rush anything and you'll be okay.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[KombiMonster]

So where at in Cali are u amishman?...maybe someone can swing by and lend u a hand.....
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[Goodfellow]

wow, you ask a question about narrowing a front end, disc brakes or putting in a straight axle kit and everyone talks trash or doesnt answer, but ask something like how do I remove an engine and people help out.

atleast it appears to be getting better in here!! If anybody in Oklahoma needs help removing an engine I will come and show ya how ta do it

[Hornman]

Amish, you can't get to the top nuts from the bottom. Your tin is in the way. I just pulled my motor today and replaced the front tranny mount. Put 'er back together, too. You'll do fine. Just feel your way. Sometimes putting it back in can be a bitch. Getting the 17mm nuts on top started. There's a trick you can do to keep the bolts from pushing back through. Before you put your motor back up, put a rubber band on the bolt on the motor side of the bellhouse. It holds the bolt...even if the bolt moves when you push the motor up to the tranny, you can crawl underneath and push the bolt back through. It'll hold in place when your fiddling, trying to get the 17mm nuts on. This helps if you're working alone.
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Michael
1969 Fastback

[amishman]

[amishman]