Might be the end of the 70

[J-Gaz.]

@ Floating VW
Thanks for this

I have to say though, The Shop is connected to the VW club scene & really don't believe they are just making up a number to get me to walk.

If it did bend the flywheel, then none of the journals will be aligned & it will either need to be Bored - or a new case.

My understanding is that the price tag is for a ground-up new motor & Already told me he sends stuff out to a machine shop if it needs the case split.

[Cusser]

[Zundfolge1432]

The bent crank scenario is complete bullshit, never seen it or heard of it before. If they’ll BS about that what other lies are told. ? Seen more than one loose flywheel problem fixed by dressing end of crank flat, four new holes, use new dowels and a serviceable flywheel. This assumes end play was correct before the carnage. Pack the end with grease to catch metal shavings from drilling new dowel holes. Been there done it way less than 3800. Somebody is getting hosed here.

[J-Gaz.]

UPDATE:

After some research looking for a long block or complete motor yesterday, and some phone calls . . .

I made it back up to the shop this morning . . .

Funny enough, they called me as I was about a mile away.


What they said and what I (originally) heard was 2 different things.

I heard bent Crank, needs total rebuild over the phone.

What they told me in the shop & on that 2nd call was: "no not bent crank, bent dowel pins.

Then, I got to the shop moments later (930 AM) & Talked with them there - (Pictures If I can figure how to Post them...)

So here's the deal (Long story Tolerable)

They are not a machine shop and for them to guarantee the work, it would need full rebuild - Because, even if they found a shop to drill out the bad holes, they couldn't warranty the motor. So for them, there is too much risk.

Makes sense enough.

SO They Recommended a machine shop (Who, by the way, I thought retired because the last time I tried to reach out to Jerry his number was dead...)

Turns out Jerry is in his 3rd location since I last had him do any work.

Since he has been threating to retire the last 13 years, I figured he did when I couldn't reach him about 5 years ago...

Regardless - I got Jerry's new number (NW connecting Rod) from the Guys at the shop and after 3 calls and VM I finally connected with him.

Anyone that's met Jerry knows he's a Straight shooter and a No BS guy. If he says he can, he can, if he says he can't, he cant & If he doesn't want to, he'll tell you.

His shop is set up to drill crank shafts for 8 dowels pins with the Crank in the Case. He can resurface and mate and match without splitting the case halves.

it was sometime after noon when I finally got ahold of Jerry.
So then I drove the motor from Edmonds to Auburn (35 miles or so) and scheduled a Tow Truck to take the body down later in the day.

Jerry is booked solid about 2.5 weeks out but should have some answers from him Wednesday the 11th (+/- a day or so).

I think the 70 might get through this after all...

We'll know more in early Dec.

_________________
1970 Beetle | Basically Stock 1600 SP

[Tim Donahoe]

After you have new dowel holes drilled, buy a new set of dowels, and maybe new crank shims, a new flywheel, and flywheel seal (get the orange Elring one, and don’t forget the o-ring), do yourself a favor—especially since you saved so much money on a new motor you didn’t really need.

Buy a Torquemeister tool. Actually, EMPI makes a good knockoff for $95–no shipping or tax from Cipi1. Use this tool to set your flywheel gland nut to 253 ft. lbs. It’s easy to use. Just set your torque wrench to 28 ft. lbs. and that gets you to 252 ft. lbs. on the nut. Tighten a hair more and you’re home free. No measuring your weight, or standing on a 3/4 inch breaker bar, X number of inches away from the center of the gland nut. None of that.

Easy-peasy.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Cusser]

Yep, your dowel holes are all ovaled out.

When getting the new holes drilled, let the shop to supply new dowels, and even consider letting them install the new oil seal, dowels, flywheel, and gland nut. I'd go with a new gland nut/washer too.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[J-Gaz.]

[J-Gaz.]

UPDATE:

Engine Is Running in top form.

Drilled to 8 dowel & New clutch assembly.
Rear Seal in great shape.

HOWEVER: the Oil leak persisted.

Took it back to Jerry & He noticed that one of the oil galley plugs was pushed in a little too far & Oil was seeping/Pushing/Gushing Past & it presented as a Main Seal Leak would.

Back in 2014, I had a Post about seasonal maintenance issues. Back then I didn't have an issue with the Flywheel coming loose, but I was under the impression that every main seal I put in leaked...

I had done about 3 I think to try to solve the issue.

It was back then that I again replaced the main seal & didn't get the torque of the flywheel correct, which caused my gland nut to loosen and flywheel to wobble -> which in turn caused the ovaled out dowel pin holes in the crankshaft.

@72Pstroke Made mention of it back then in 2014, but I didn't really know what I was looking at or for, AND "Assumed" that because the case was a new Mag AS41 that was not drilled for full flow, that the oil galley plugs would have been pressed in and installed correctly from the factory...

They were not.

If you care to see that thread, it is here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20

Regardless. It has been a long journey to get this thing Potty Trained, but as of now, it is no longer marking it's the spot.

I appreciate all the help.

Next on the list is:
Tidying up the wiring, Fuses & Lights & Turnsignals.
Window Scrapers
New shocks & Urethane Grommets (if needed)
Fix a hole in the Pan.
Remove Rotten and torn interior (back window & Luggage Tray)
Front & Rear Window Rubber
Add some sound deading.
Adjust the Bonnet up front so it opens easier...
Replace all the fresh air Paper/Foil Tubes & Dash vents.

Basically, everything except the engine now, assuming it stays leak free... HA!
_________________
1970 Beetle | Basically Stock 1600 SP

[VW_Jimbo]

Glad you figured it out! And that you found Jerry!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[J-Gaz.]

[joey1320]

Great ending to the story.
_________________
1971 Super - Sold
1984 Puma GTC - Sold
1971 Campmobile