Advice on lower window frame to nose skin

[Emeraldlion]

So my bus has had it's nose reskined previously. As far as I can tell it was done decently and with an original swr skin which is nice. My question pertains to the joint where the nose slips below the lower wi shield frame.

In the pictures you should see the gap that was left. I believe they left the previous bit of spot welded metal behind. The joint appears tight outwards at door, and at center nose, but I have a maybe 16th gap around the wi shield wiper holes. Seam sealer prior to paint? Try to press together and tack? What would samba do?

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1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[Busstom]

Dang, I wouldn't call that decent, I'd call that a dastardly shortcut...and I'd be pissed. It doesn't even look like they welded the lip to the backside of that stack (with plug welds), so the top of the panel is just floating behind the frame, yeah?

From someone who's not yet replaced a nose, I'm gonna venture two guesses: drill the welds and somehow pull that strip out, or; cut the lower portion of the windshield frame away, replace it and do it properly...which is probably the better option, since they did a hacky grind around the wiper shaft tabs.

I'm anxious to see what the seasoned pros say...maybe some additional good advice I can use when I do replace my nose.

[Emeraldlion]

So I get what you are saying, let me put it this way. I am not unhappy with the rest of it, and not going to redo it just because of this,so what would be the best approach to remedying their shortcut on this portion considering the previous statement.
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1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[busdaddy]

How pitted or holey is the windshield frame along the bottom edge where the glass sits?, that would have a big part to play in deciding how to fix that mess.
Any pics from the back side?
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[Emeraldlion]

I could take some but it is not pitted or rusty at all. This bus is super dry. It does not need that portion replaced or it would be a completely different story
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1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[busdaddy]

Well, from here it looks like they didn't leave enough of the old skin in place to do a decent butt weld, you caould weld it up as is, but you'd lose the seam on the lower edge of the windshield metal. Sure it'd be strong and functional, but that's one of the first places I look when searching for signs of shoddy repairs, if it's that solid otherwise it'll be a red flag to anyone who knows bus metalwork and detract from the overall vehicle IMO.

If there's enough extra metal on the replacement skin stuck up under there then extracting the remnants of the old nose from the back of the WS frame as BussTom suggests is the better option. It'll probably require removal of the nose skin to do right, or drill off the lower section of the WS frame carefully and put it back afterwards. With that out of the way you could extend the upper lip of the replacement nose to give you something to weld to if it was trimmed too short.

There's no quick solution I can come up with to do anything close to a good job on that, all the good fixes will require more hours.
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[Emeraldlion]

The replacement panel has the flange that goes up underneath the winshield frame just like the stock one would. I really do not feel like to would be prudent to remove the nose. This is not a bus I intend to resale , it is mine for a long time.
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1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[Dustin B]

To repair it the correct way I would either remove the nose or remove the lower windshield section and put it back together what it should be. At the end of the day it's all on how deep you really want to get into it but you'll be so much happier with it if you do it the right way.
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[earlywesty]

[ryans65]

Cut the lower windshield frame off, drill or use a carbide bit on the spot welds that hold the remnants of the old nose skin off, re-fit lower frame, drill and cleco the frame to the nose skin then weld the frame back in. Make absolutely sure the part of the frame that overlaps the nose skin is as flat as it can be and as tight as you can get it to the nose skin also. Use a ton of clecos and just remove one by one as you go. I would remove a cleco, drill the hole out slightly larger, weld then move to the next cleco hole. It's going to be a decent amount of tedious work no matter which way you slice it but it's just metal and anything can be fixed.

[Emeraldlion]

I asked what people would do to address the gap and their shortcut. I guess I didnt expect their to be a flock of geese saying take the nose off. I know the best thing is to take the nose off, that is pretty obvious. If no one else has an alternative suggestion based off what I have suggested then just don't respond. Don't get me wrong I appreciate the responses, but I have already said I dont plan on removing the nose. Thanks anyway.
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1967 Sunroof Beetle: tourist pass car
1961 SWR Kombi

[Busstom]

I think removing the nose was only suggested as an option. Clearly the most popular remedy discussed was addressing the lower WS frame to extricate that damn strip they left behind. No one's criticizing you, just the turds that left that mess for you to rectify

[busdaddy]

You don't have to remove the nose, but you do have to carefully drill off the lower few inches of the outer windshield surround skin (thin cuts through the outer skin at posts) to clean up the joint, then reattach the WS surround you removed welding it to the replacement nose when you do.
There's likely rust between the layers you can't see right now that needs dealing with anyways, especially if it's a "keeper".
You'll need a set of spot weld cutters if you lack drilling experience.
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[Emeraldlion]

[busdaddy]

Well it's your choice, since they bodged the nose job it may indeed be better to remove the nose, we all know the WS frame was installed properly, can't say the same about the nose.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[Navydave73]

If you can grind the outside of the lower window frame and see where the OG spot welds are, i would use a spot weld drill bit. Center tap each of the spot welds and drill them out, trying to carefully preserve the windshield frame as much as possible. You should be able to split this seam after drilling them out and peel the thin strip off. This will give you a nice hole to plug weld the frame to the inner lip of the new front clip. Clamp it tight, put a bolt with washers through the wiper holes, etc... i like cleco clamps for this. Buy them on amazon.

If it was done 20years ago, i assume this was a donor clip from another bus? Can you see the inner lip on the new clip under the dash or did they cut if off when removing from donor? If it is still there, your issue looks like it is doubled up where the windshield frame sits on the nose.

How does the rest of the front clip look? Did they do a good job with the edges by the doors that fold over the A pillars? That is supposed to be spot welded, then the seam is folded like factory. Same for the bottom. If it is all hacked, re
-do it with a WW or KF front clip and drill out the spots welds on the frame from the backside. Or grind them thin and peel open like a sardine can.

Also, you could cut the frame at the bottom of window opening and replace with the patch piece from WW or KF for $150 or thereabouts. I will be doing that soon when i replace my front clip. The only concern for me there is the fold over the A pillar. Will i be able to weld this patch piece well enough where it folds over so it wont be noticeable? It must be doable because i see a lot builds using that piece, but I’ve never inspected one personally to see the weld. My fear is that it will be too hard to bend over.

Good luck.