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My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann)
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Ceckert64 wrote:
I didn’t se your last post Bobnotch, thanks for the info! I will have to look into it, I might try doing it myself first. How much did it cost? Thanks for the tip on the brake lines. I will replace all the brake lines I believe.

I will try to wax next. The meguiars did take the oxidation out well!

Third time NOT the charm, the line was 72 deep there Shocked


Well, I suggested Jim, as he has all the tools you need to use, plus he knows what he's looking for, and has the parts in stock. Like I said, others have used his services before.

As for dealing with the Secretary of State, go to www.MI.gov/MITIMELINE, to schedule an appointment. I'd give you a number to call, but it's for the Port Huron office. You make an appointment, and show up a few minutes before it, and go to the front of the line. They don't advertise it, but that's the way to go when dealing with the state. Just a heads up.

Give the cleaner wax a try, you'll be surprised at how well it works for old paint. Wink
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Ceckert64
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Location: Midland, Michigan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 3:37 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Thanks for the input! I have to be honest, everyone’s contributions are great, and when I don’t do some of the things you suggest, it not that I’m trying to ignore you or be rude. I’m in high school right now and don’t have a ton of time or money to spend on this project. I just won’t always be able to do it all of the suggestions or get the best parts. So, please, keep the input coming, but it won’t be possible for me to do it all. I wanted to put this out here so I didn’t seem rude by not taking some of your input.

Bobnotch: I did make an appointment yesterday to go to the Secretary of State this Thursday. I will try to get it waxed tomorrow, I will also work on rust repair.

Rome: I will have to try that with my media blaster. I might try to do the master series. I decided I’m not going to take the pistons or split the case, it looks good inside, it doesn’t seem to need anything, thank you for the tip though! Is the a good way to clean out the crap in the bottom of the block without splitting it? I already ordered the steel push rod tubes and 10mm studs before your post. I will try giving the push rod a good coat of paint though. Is there any issues with replacing studs and not doing case savers. Would it be fine to just lock-tight the studs? I like your tool, it looks like it would work great into the nooks and crannies. What happened that caused your engine to blow in 2003?

I have a question, can I test the electrical with the engine out as long as no unplugged wires are touching? It seems the computer is VERY sensitive with voltage and wanted to make sure it wouldn’t have to much power going to it or give it issues not connected to the fuel injection system. I don’t think it would do harm, but, I’d rather not blow the brain either Laughing

I might see if I can get Joann going before my bug finished and drive it first? I need a break from body work and sanding. I turn 16 in May, so that’s when I get my license so one needs to be done by then. What do you guys think, should I finish the beetle or finish this first? The tread for my bug is in the signature of your interested.

Edit: Rome, I will try the trick for the on the hubcaps, there is no chrome left on the top/bottom of the bumpers to try to do that trick on.
_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 3:48 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Drive the square first!
A cheap digital VOM will do all your testing safely.
Blow up the color wiring diagram to 11X17 & have it laminated at Kinkos.
Buy a $5 Remote Starter Button from Harbor Freight for working by yourself.
Sand & paint your rusty bumpers complete in chrome or color of your choice.
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66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:29 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Okay, thanks Mike Fisher! I'm thinking about painting the bumpers, they are pretty rough currently.

I have a question, I was looking at the heater elbows(? The u-shaped tube off shroud) I noticed those, the kidneys(?), have original blue paint on them, I don't normaly see that, is that standard?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I noticed the muffler had the round circular end on it where most are two hlfs pinch welded. Also, it has an engine hanger for the earlier engines that had the one rear mount, why would it have this stuff on there? Thanks for the input!
_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 8:34 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

You can certainly get the engine back into running condition by not taking the case apart, and just simply reassembling it.

Cleaning out the case: Now with the engine out of the car, you could drain the engine oil by removing the bottom sump plate and oil screen (rest the engine onto two 1-foot long 4 x 6" board segments at the outer edges of the engine case), put the sump plate back on using a single new gasket, and pour diesel fuel into the case at the top of the engine. Diesel fuel has mild cleaning characteristics and is not as flammable as gasoline. Let the engine sit a few days. Try to rock the engine left to right by removing one of the boards underneath and placing the other one in the center of the engine so that the engine weight is still fully supported. The rocking motion will slosh the diesel across the engine. Drain the diesel and inspect it for sludge. If there's a lot, repeat. After your final cleaning session, insert the cleaned oil screen and sump plate with new gaskets, then pour in 2.5 quarts of engine oil. Remember that those sump plate nuts only need 5 ft lbs torque (60 inch-lb. if you have a small inch/lb torque wrench); and replace the small copper washers under each nut.

Head studs: No need to use thread locking fluid on the ends going into the engine case. Some people use a sealant such as Permatex Aviation. Hand-thread the stud ends into the engine case hole all the way, then back off 1/4 turn. The sealant minimizes engine oil from leaking past the threads. Realize that having case savers installed is a repair to prolong the life of the engine.

My Fastback's engine overheated in 2003 mostly due to my negligence. The engine was the original, though I had removed the fuel injection and replaced it with carburetors after the FI died in the first year and I was not diligent enough with diagnosing it. I also removed the entire original muffler and the "clam shell" preheat bulbs, replacing them with a header and "over the top" quiet muffler. I installed hoses from the cooling fan housing top side outlets (which originally fed the clam shells) and routed them down into the the heater box (HB, aka heat exchanger) rear inlets. Since the HB did not have a collar at the opening to help hold the hoses, I used a short section of metal pipe that fit snugly into the HB opening. I attached that pipe to the HB neck using a single sheetmetal screw Confused . The cooling hose then slipped over the other end of the pipe and fastened to the pipe using a hose clamp.

That single sheetmetal screw worked its way loose during the drive to and in Michigan. After arriving at the host hotel (what's now the Ann Arbor Regent Hotel just east of US Rt 23, south of Washtenaw Ave.) the day before the MVVC meet, I took 2 friends along to visit the Chrysler Museum at their HQ in Auburn Hills up along I-75. On the way back, the engine developed a knocking sound, saw oil smoke behind me, and just lost power. Got the car towed back to the hotel. After the fastening screw fell out, the metal pipe jumped out of the HB from bumps in the rodad so that there was no cooling air being blown into the HB. With that high-speed highway drive, the HB got so hot from the stagnant exhaust air that the heat rose to the bottom of the left cylinders. The #4 piston started melting, creating an exposed edge at the piston crown which allowed hot combustion gas to pass by and disintegrate the piston top edge even more. Engine still ran once it cooled down, but was very loud and was obviously wounded.

When I rebuilt the engine later that year, I riveted that same metal collar onto the HB neck with 2 rivets so that it was a more permanent repair. I always wanted to drive the Fastback back to the MVVC meet with the rebuilt engine to "prove" its tripworthiness, but never got around to it. I did make it to the Type 3 Invasion in Hershey, PA in 2004 but that was only a 3-hour drive instead of 9 hours to MI. That was my last longer drive in the car. Meantime the pan and body have been rusting a lot so that the car is no longer roadworthy.

Since you have a Beetle, realize that the Type 3 of any body style is a fine upbgrade in driving behavior. Larger vehicle inside even though it has the same wheelbase, much better stability due to much wider front axle attachment design, and the independant semi-trailing arm rear suspension. Wonderful highway cruiser that can hold 75-80mph all day with the stock engine (properly built).

Since you plan on replacing the pistons and cylinders, if you plan on keeping your current heads, replace the exhaust valves without question.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Ceckert64 wrote:
Okay, thanks Mike Fisher! I'm thinking about painting the bumpers, they are pretty rough currently.

I have a question, I was looking at the heater elbows(? The u-shaped tube off shroud) I noticed those, the kidneys(?), have original blue paint on them, I don't normaly see that, is that standard?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I noticed the muffler had the round circular end on it where most are two hlfs pinch welded. Also, it has an engine hanger for the earlier engines that had the one rear mount, why would it have this stuff on there? Thanks for the input!


It's actually a grayish color from the factory.

As for the grab handle as Jim Adney calls it, all type 3 engines got that tube. It's because VW was still building swing axle (SA) cars thru to the end of production. And swing axle cars used that tube as a torque device. VW also built replacement engines during this time, and didn't know if the car it was going into had a SA trans, or an IRS trans.

I agree with Rome, use diesel fuel to clean the inside of the case. You can also use it on the outside as well.

If you're concerned about zapping the ECU, you can kill power to it by disconnecting the power wire to the ECU relay (ls under rear seat) at either end of the red wire to the relay, or at the battery. Then connect your battery charger and check your electrics. Some of it might work slowly, due to the amount of amps of your charger's out put. I do this this way as I'm checking to make sure everything is Kosher. It's common for me to do this, as I like to make sure everything electrical works.
Keep in mind that the rear window defog most likely won't work, as the painted heating element has probably been washed off in places. These were sprayed on at the factory, and not embedded in the glass like today's vehicles. Most times they just barely made it out of warranty. So, don't be surprised if yours doesn't work.
I hope this helps.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Okay, thanks Rome and Bobnotch! I did do the diesel trick, the sludge was bad.
I got some more of the electrical fixed, I got the dome light, the wire to it was cut, I had to reroute a new wire for it. It was a pain, I had to route it through the roof pillar, down through the hole for the wires for the door contact, to the fuse block. Then I found another cut red wire Evil or Very Mad I’m not sure if it’s the one to the dome light, or not. I got part of the floor repaired, I used part of a repair piece for a beetle, it worked well. I ran out of Argon for welding, so my dad got some today I belive. The pistons are cleaning up nice. There is one fuse for the electrical that keeps blowing, it was fine, then I pulled the fuse box down and it started giving me issues. The terminals aren’t touching anything, not sure on the issue. The turn signals DO work, it was a blown fuse. Sorry for the scrambled post.
_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 1:43 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Ceckert64 wrote:
Okay, thanks Rome and Bobnotch! I did do the diesel trick, the sludge was bad.
I got some more of the electrical fixed, I got the dome light, the wire to it was cut, I had to reroute a new wire for it. It was a pain, I had to route it through the roof pillar, down through the hole for the wires for the door contact, to the fuse block. Then I found another cut red wire Evil or Very Mad I’m not sure if it’s the one to the dome light, or not. I got part of the floor repaired, I used part of a repair piece for a beetle, it worked well. I ran out of Argon for welding, so my dad got some today I belive. The pistons are cleaning up nice. There is one fuse for the electrical that keeps blowing, it was fine, then I pulled the fuse box down and it started giving me issues. The terminals aren’t touching anything, not sure on the issue. The turn signals DO work, it was a blown fuse. Sorry for the scrambled post.


I'm wondering if a mouse sniped thru the wires to the dome light. Not uncommon.
I've used beetle metal before to make floor patches. It's a good source of metal.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 12:50 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

I've got a set of exhaust valves for you, I ended up buying new heads. PM me an addy and I'll send them. I kept them past the return date. If I may be frank, as someone who has been in your shoes, that rust on your inner fenders, floors and heater channels is going to be a showstopper in the SB vs Bug completion dates contest. If you at 15 years old already have the welding skills to throw those 3 layer patch on the areas mentioned, quit high school and go on tour. You can make .25 mil$ welding out of the back of your rig! Wink.
I bought patch pieces for my car from Mike and I'd pay you .5G to come weld my three patches in! Lincoln Electric has a great welding school here in Cleveland.

Hope to meet you some day
Dan P
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 2:14 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Thanks DQDan! I will let you know if I need the exhaust valves! Thank you for the offer! Thanks for the compliments, my welding skills still have a ways, I am looking for a summer job... It would be nice to meet you too. I should be at Ypsilanti this year, it’s the day before my birthday and I get my license, my dad is thrilled to take me and a car load of parts down to sell again Laughing

Sorry for the slow replies, I’ve been busy with school and robotics, my free day was Tuesday and I got a bunch welded in that day but didn’t get a chance to update. My dad made some patch pieces for me, the one turned out amazing. It had a weird shape, here’s it below.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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I also got the battery tray welded in, I bought it for my bug to fix the battery tray, that snowballed to floor pans and then the lower 8 inches if the car Laughing
Anyways, I got it trimmed to fit with my dad. He is a way better metal fabricator than me. Here is the piece welded in I fabbed up
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Here are some more images, some of the welding isn’t great. I had some burn through.
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Edit: I forgot the big News! I got it title under me and my dads name! Dancing No hassle either, it was easy and fast, Yay!
_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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DONGKG
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:09 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Nice SB.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:38 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Ceckert64 wrote:

Edit: I forgot the big News! I got it title under me and my dads name! Dancing No hassle either, it was easy and fast, Yay!


Congrats. I don't like dumping money into something I don't own.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:17 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Thanks DONGKG!
I got a bit more work done over the weekend, I got the engine studs in, piston rings on, and the cylinders on the engine. It was a bit hard to get the cylinder on without having a ring compressor tool. I had got one almost all the way on when I realized that I forgot the paper gasket for the cylinder and I had to re-do it. I also replaced the gasket on the oil pump. I cleaned the head too, I figured out how to clean under the valve seats. I’m waiting on the push rod tubes to put the heads on. I was trying to torque the oil cooler to the right torque of 12ft-lbs. the one stud snapped so I have to replace that. I was testing the radio, I heard a faint buzzing in the speaker. The antenna was broken so I went and got one for my bug, plugged in the cord and turned it on, the radio worked! I sounds good too! Here is a video link to it working
Link

I emptied the gas tank, it looked good on the out side, the inside, well, that’s what came out.
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The master cylinder looks to be in good rebuild able condition
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I knocked the rust off the warm air mixer...
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Here are some engine pics.
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_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0


Last edited by Ceckert64 on Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

That master cylinder looks pretty nasty.

For the oil cooler bolt that broke, use a piece of 1/4inch all thread, with 2 nyloc nuts on each end. I've done that before, since trying to find 1 screw will be tough.
You might also want to have a look at the oil cooler seal thread, as you might find that you'll want to relocate those thick aluminum washers to the top.

You're slowly gaining on it. Keep it up. Cool
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

We put a new German ATE master cylinder on my square.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Thank you Bobnotch and Mike Fisher. The master cylinder is nasty on the out side, but the inside is good. I tried to get a picture but it won’t photograph well. On the washers is it better to put the on top? I thought the originaly were spacers on the bottom, I had them on the top but I was looking in the manual to find the torque, it didn’t have that setting. But it did show washers on the bottom. Now that you mentioned that, I may add some thicker washers on the top also.
I got the push rod tubes painted tonight.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Edit: Here is the page from the manual I found it on.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:29 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

That's why I suggested looking thru the oil cooler seal thread. Some of us have found not using the spacers to seal the oil cooler, while others have used them only to have a leak later on. I think part of this stems from the seals being slightly thinner than OE. The key to it all depends on which oil cooler and case combo you're using.Yours should be a late-late combo with 10mm ports in both parts. This means using the thin red cooler seals. But, like I said, most of us are leaving out the spacers, so we can get the seals to seal. You can put the spacers on top of the cooler bolts, or under the case bosses (your choice), just not in between like you found them originally. I don't know why they're leaking later on, but they do. Yes, I understand VW wants you to use the spacers too. But, we're just giving you some first hand advice, trying to save you from having to tear the engine half apart to replace those seals again.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Ceckert64
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Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 295
Location: Midland, Michigan
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Sorry Bobnotch, I realized I missed the part in you previous post about the oil cooler threads, my bad Embarassed I will have to look because the seal kit had 3 sets of oil cooler seals, one set was the 8mm. I will experiment with it tomorrow or over the weekend.

Edit: Thank you from saving me there Bobnotch. I need to realize that not everything in the manual can be followed exactly to what they say, parts and things have changed since 1970. For example, no one uses straight-weight oil like the owner manual says Laughing (Well, I wouldn’t think at least)
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“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 7:37 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

It’s been a little bit since I posted. Here are the updates;
Friday, I got the push rod tubes and the heads on and correctly torqued on. I also welded in another floor pan patch. I found some that the rust at the heater channel foot well outlet, is rusted out badly in that area all the way through. I got the front fender removed along with the bumper. The rust isn’t as bad as I had originaly thought.
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Saturday, I was busy and only got the tail light repaired. It got a chunk busted in but it has there, I drilled a hole in the middle of the piece of the plastic to pull it in place with a dental pick, it’s not great, but is better than nothing.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Earlier I had asked if any of the engine tin was blue, I got some pictures of it.
I know tin was grey originaly for these pieces. The kidneys for the exhaust and the ail elbow or U going to the kidneys have some blue paint. There is no grey underneath, it had original clamps on it. It looks to be original and I doubt that any one repainted it. Could it be designating a special exhaust system? The muffler seems slightly different than most.
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_________________
“Herbie” 1964 Factory sunroof Beetle
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=684086
“Don” 1965 Factory sunroof parts beetle SOLD
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
Restoration thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=729397&start=0
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: My 1970 Elm Green Squareback (Joann) Reply with quote

Ceckert64 wrote:
It’s been a little bit since I posted. Here are the updates;
Friday, I got the push rod tubes and the heads on and correctly torqued on. I also welded in another floor pan patch. I found some that the rust at the heater channel foot well outlet, is rusted out badly in that area all the way through. I got the front fender removed along with the bumper. The rust isn’t as bad as I had originaly thought.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Saturday, I was busy and only got the tail light repaired. It got a chunk busted in but it has there, I drilled a hole in the middle of the piece of the plastic to pull it in place with a dental pick, it’s not great, but is better than nothing.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Earlier I had asked if any of the engine tin was blue, I got some pictures of it.
I know tin was grey originaly for these pieces. The kidneys for the exhaust and the ail elbow or U going to the kidneys have some blue paint. There is no grey underneath, it had original clamps on it. It looks to be original and I doubt that any one repainted it. Could it be designating a special exhaust system? The muffler seems slightly different than most.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm really surprised those crash support boxes are that solid, as they usually go first, being it was a Michigan car. Make sure you look closely along the bottom of the inner fender where it goes over the pan (does the kind of lazy "S" shape), as they like to rust there, and will let water into the car. It's a kind of common spot to rust, because stones and gravel and rock salt along with general road grime get tossed there.

As for the blue paint on parts of the heating system at the exhaust, I don't recall them being blue, especially safety blue, or is it GM corporate blue (hard to tell, as everyone's monitor is different in their color settings). Those should be that greenish gray color. If you end going with an exhaust other than stock, you won't use those parts.

As for the muffler itself, it's an older aftermarket unit (maybe even a very old JC Whitney). You can tell because it's round, versus a kind of squared off shape. I'm actually surprised to see that it had a heat shield installed on it, as not many do.
I hope this helps.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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