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germansupplyscott Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2004 Posts: 7094 Location: toronto
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:39 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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metz wrote: |
What's the difference between a rear axle hub/housing -07/70 and 08/70-?
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Later housing (with composite rear hub, in other words '71-up) uses a different outer bearing. There maybe a different depth to the unit as well. Parts book shows 3 versions of the bearing housing but I am not sure about the 'middle' one. Only ever seen early (up to '70) and late ('71-up). |
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NorCalWeekender Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6531 Location: East Bay, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm putting new studs on my carburetor. Should I use any sort of threadlocker when I install them? _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51163 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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NorCalWeekender wrote: |
I'm putting new studs on my carburetor. Should I use any sort of threadlocker when I install them? |
Nope, just wavy washers under the nuts when you install the carb. But if you'll sleep better a little of the blue stuff won't hurt anything. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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NorCalWeekender Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6531 Location: East Bay, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
NorCalWeekender wrote: |
I'm putting new studs on my carburetor. Should I use any sort of threadlocker when I install them? |
Nope, just wavy washers under the nuts when you install the carb. But if you'll sleep better a little of the blue stuff won't hurt anything. |
Sounds good, man. Thank you. _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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Charlie57 Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 140 Location: Lebanon, TN
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Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 11:29 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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First, Thanks for taking the time to read this. This is my first VW project and I have found it challenging. Thank God for all the help I have gotten from this site!
Charlie
I have a few more random stupid questions. Each day I am getting closer to putting the engine back into the bus. It's a 73 engine on a 78 bus.
Can anyone tell me the size of the screws for the fuel tank cover? Also, anything I need to be certain to do before I install the cover, lines are hooked up.
Maybe it's because of a different year engine but does the alternator bracket attach to anything. It appears like it should.
My timing tab has no numbers, is there a sticker I can buy?
What are these little holes for and do I need to plug them with screws? Does anyone know the size?
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51163 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 1:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Charlie57 wrote: |
Can anyone tell me the size of the screws for the fuel tank cover? Also, anything I need to be certain to do before I install the cover, lines are hooked up. |
Not sure of the metric size, but #8 x 1" sheet metal screws should work.
Aside from that make sure all the rubber lines are replaced with new hose, preferably SAE-J30-R9 grade. Now's the time to do the filler hose and elbow too. And the fuel sender may or may not work and the O ring may leak, no better time than now to fix that.
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Maybe it's because of a different year engine but does the alternator bracket attach to anything. It appears like it should. |
Wrong bracket, you'll need one for a 75-78, it should attach to the exhaust and support it's weight, there should also be a short one on the left side to support the exhaust from the shroud too.
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My timing tab has no numbers, is there a sticker I can buy? |
Bus depot?, somebody sells new timing scales, no sticker, the whole part.
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What are these little holes for and do I need to plug them with screws? Does anyone know the size?
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Depends on what year the heads are from, try an M6 bolt in there with a washer to hold down the tin. But if it falls in like it's a port down into the exhaust port then they need to be plugged with M10 x 1.0 valve adjuster screws. Those look like M6 from here. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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KentABQ Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016 Posts: 2406 Location: Albuquerque NM
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Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 2:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Here's a do-it-yourself scale from a fellow Sambanista:
LeeE wrote: |
Hi
Photo test...Hey Presto, it worked!
I redid the layout and it looks OK. I am not a draftsman, but I think this is very close.
The bends may need to be finessed a little for a proper fit, and the 10cm arc might could be slightly larger, but only about 1mm.
I tested a cardboard prototype and it worked well, good enough to set timing, and I checked it against a real plastic scale. I may yet make one out of sheet metal if I can figure out how to cut it without warping. Maybe I could use tin snips, pound it flat and then bend it to shape.
If anyone else uses this to make one please let me know how it worked.
This layout is also in the gallery under Parts/Accessories Other.
Thanks
LeeE
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I printed it out on paper and enlarged it until it was full scale. Then taped it to the existing blank scale. It worked well enough until I got the replacement scale. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 2:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Depends on what year the heads are from, try an M6 bolt in there with a washer to hold down the tin. But if it falls in like it's a port down into the exhaust port then they need to be plugged with M10 x 1.0 valve adjuster screws. Those look like M6 from here. |
Good place to use a fender washer. |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 11:01 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Is there a high-top styles thread? I’m looking for the name of the names of a few different manufacturers, and their differences.
Thanks,
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51163 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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JaimeH Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2012 Posts: 265 Location: Canterbury, NH
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 5:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Would the grille screws have been body color originally? _________________ 1978 Transporter 2.0 FI, BA6
Special Thanks to Razor's Customs, Boscawen, NH |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51163 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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JimmieH wrote: |
[pic]Would the grille screws have been body color originally? |
No, body color screws is the trademark of Maaco and Earl Scheib. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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NorCalWeekender Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6531 Location: East Bay, CA
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:56 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
JimmieH wrote: |
[pic]Would the grille screws have been body color originally? |
No, body color screws is the trademark of Maaco and Earl Scheib. |
Or lame previous owners who do their own work. I could hardly get the screwdriver on my screws to get this piece off. Five different colors over it. _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 11:04 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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JimmieH wrote: |
[img]
Would the grille screws have been body color originally? |
Beautiful paint Jimmie!
If you want to go ultra-correct, late bays had a rubber/plastic washer under the grill screws to protect the paint. Send me your shipping address and I'll drop a set in the mail for you.
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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JaimeH Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2012 Posts: 265 Location: Canterbury, NH
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thank you for the responses, and Robbie thank you for your generous offer. I sent you a PM. Next question is what is the correct color for the vent flaps? I think early bays were black, but when I sanded mine down I didn't see a trace of black. Just layers of silver & blue.
_________________ 1978 Transporter 2.0 FI, BA6
Special Thanks to Razor's Customs, Boscawen, NH |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Late bays were “grey” colored, which looks suspiciously like “ford grey” rattle cans. A nice primer followed by clear coat works as well.
Washers will be in the mail tomorrow! 🤘
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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maz-o Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2017 Posts: 79 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 6:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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JimmieH wrote: |
Would the grille screws have been body color originally? |
slightly off topic but is that an original VW blue color? if so which one? |
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Jim Bear Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2006 Posts: 670 Location: Watkinsville, GA
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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I bought a running type 4 engine from a shop here in GA. The shop owner found the bus for a client and then the client wanted a type 1 engine put in for aesthetic reasons. The engine that came out is a 1.8 with an AW engine code. It's either from a 74 dual carb or 75 FI. The sticker shown below tell me nothing about dual carb or FI. In the third pics, does that sensor wire going in the middle of the pic suggest FI? I do not recall seeing that on my 1.8 dual carb from my '74. Thanks...
_________________ "You're either on the bus, or you're off the bus." ~kk
'85 Vanagon Westy - George In the Stable 2020-?/'74 Weekender - Ophelia In the Stable 2007- ?/'69 Beetle Convertible - SOLD 2017-2020/'67 Beetle - September SOLD 2013-2016 /'67 SO42 Westy - Sage SOLD 1996-2001 /'69 Transporter - Baby Blue SOLD 1995-1995/'72 Westy - Nelly - SOLD 1990-1995--STOP FRACKING |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:17 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The .008” exhaust valve clearance on the sticker says that fan shroud originally came on a ‘74 dual carb bus with sodium-filled exhaust valves. If the shroud matches the case number, that’s what it originally had. Look for a mechanical fuel pump or block-off plate to confirm.
The truncated plug was a TDC or timing sensor for the obsolete computer diagnostic system of the 70s. Cut the cord as short as you want, but keep the plug in place so little bits can’t fall into the flywheel area.
Remember there’s a strong likelihood that someone has opened it up, or at least replaced the heads.
What’s your plan for the engine? If you’re going to run it, check for combustion leaks around the cylinder spigots, especially on the bottom of the heads. If there’s leakage, you might consider removing the heads and renewing the copper sealing gasket between the head and the cylinder.
Good luck,
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
Last edited by airschooled on Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:21 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:18 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Just look where the mechanical fuel pump bolts up. If the fuel pump is there or there is a block off plate, the block is a carbureted block, while if there is an un-drill boss it is a FI block. The engine number that counts is going to be on the block itself, the ones on the fan shroud will tell you little or nothing if the fan shroud does not match the engine.
Odd that someone would want to create a likely undependable morphodite for aesthetic purposes. |
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