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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
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Location: Oklahoma City
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 Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| Magion wrote: |
Product i used is called Pro-Form rust comvertor. According to data sheet it contains 10-30% of phosphoric acid, isopropyl alcohol and cupric sulfate. It says fo not dilute and must be topcoated. Let dry for 24 hours.
Its pickle. What to do now? Repeat the while proces and hope it will deal with this brownes?
I would need to find something else obviously for conversion. And when you dilute phosphoric, you just use water? |
Ok....a couple of things:
1. How old is this Pro-form? If you look at the current SDS...which is April 2018.....it does not list any of the ingredients your data sheet listed.
A. This is either because your SDS is older and is actually an MSDS sheet....because on SDS's....they only have to list "hazardous" chemicals...so many constituent ingredients are no longer listed these days (I hate modern SDS formats). But.....I consider phosphoric acid and isopropyl alcohol hazardous.....most people do....and cupric sulfate (copper sulfate) is a mil hazard.
B. So...its possible that what is out there now for Pro-form converter is reformulated.
2. The pink-ish color....is a patina from the copper sulfate. Because copper will corrode....and thinking of it like a very, very thin copper plating....the copper must corrode away before the metal underneath can start to corrode....so in this respect they are probably technically using this in place of the polymer used in many phosphoric acid products.
So in that respect...maybe its innovative. But the question is did you have any converted rust? ....which should be black or charcoal gray....If not...start over.
The reason you are seeing "pink"...is because you are probably seeing through the micro-inches thick copper patina...to clean, shiny steel.
Here you can see copper sulfate being used to put a Patina on various metals including steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=qI6v9lWch54
So I am not saying that this product is not good....just that its an unknown for what we are doing here.
I would re-etch it with muriatic acid. Then let it properly surface flash rust. In fact...do not dry it. Let t dry on its own. This is what creates the surface flash rust.
Then...once you have surface flash rust....you might test the phosphoric acid product you already have like this:
Take a cotton swab...dip it in the product...and tape it to a stick. Reach through the sending unit hole and make a small wet spot with it on the bottom in a location you can shine a light onto and look at it in 24 hours. If you get the proper dusty charcoal gray to black...cool!....use it to finish the job.
If not...look around for some Ospho.
And....dont be alarmed. 100% of the phosphoric aid or other acid based "rust converters"...list that they need to be top-coated or painted to be permanently rust proof. The storage oil will do that in the short term and the fuel will do that in the long term.
By the way.....this is a good read. Carol Shelby's list of the top 15 rust converters (by review fro what I can see) for 2021.
Many of these I have not heard of if they are in spray form or in small bottles...mainly because that means that they are damn expensive for doing large parts like a gas tank so I ignore them
https://www.carrollshelby.com/best-rust-converter/
So the way I use a list like that...is I copy the name of each product and do a google search that says "product X sds" or "product X TDS"...I look at the chemical and then google the chemicals.
So.....in the Corroseal product in that list....I found "gallic" acid. INTERESTING chemistry.
So Gallic acid....was used with ferrous sulfate ....to make the blackish blue (does that color sound familiar)....of "iron gall" ink from several hundred years ago. This is because the gallic acid converts the iron in ferrous sulfate ...to a blackish blue oxide color. Interesting.
Also.....gallic acid can precipitated from tannins and probably tannic acid. Tannic acid or tannins are one of the common ingredients found in numerous rust converters .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallic_acid
Ray |
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Magion
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Joined: February 15, 2016
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Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 8:09 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Truth is my rust convertor is from 2018. So the SDS you are seeing is the one I saw. These ingredients are listed on the packaging as well.
As for the converted rust...I would say If I had any it would be microscopic amount as I managed to dry it fairly quickly. so no black or charcoal gray. If there is any it is hard to see because the surface if now covered with layer of copper plating. Problem also is, as I did not flush the Pro-form but rather let it dry over night it created almost layer-like after drying. And where it pooled it went black and is flaking off. Potential source of clogged fuel line.
So I am going back to the beginning and will repeat the process but using different phosphoric acid. My issue is as I am in Canada the sources are limited as always. Boarders closed so I probably cannot get Ospho. I will be locating PH down as per Marks recommendations. I am curious to see if Muriatic will get rid of this orange-brown mess. I will report back for sure
edit: https://www.jonsplantfactory.com/product/jons-ph-down/
This looks like something I can get my hands on. Says 85% phosphoric acid. what about the 15% ?
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
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Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 9:26 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| Magion wrote: |
Truth is my rust convertor is from 2018. So the SDS you are seeing is the one I saw. These ingredients are listed on the packaging as well.
As for the converted rust...I would say If I had any it would be microscopic amount as I managed to dry it fairly quickly. so no black or charcoal gray. If there is any it is hard to see because the surface if now covered with layer of copper plating. Problem also is, as I did not flush the Pro-form but rather let it dry over night it created almost layer-like after drying. And where it pooled it went black and is flaking off. Potential source of clogged fuel line.
So I am going back to the beginning and will repeat the process but using different phosphoric acid. My issue is as I am in Canada the sources are limited as always. Boarders closed so I probably cannot get Ospho. I will be locating PH down as per Marks recommendations. I am curious to see if Muriatic will get rid of this orange-brown mess. I will report back for sure
edit: https://www.jonsplantfactory.com/product/jons-ph-down/
This looks like something I can get my hands on. Says 85% phosphoric acid. what about the 15% ? |
You do NOT want anything that is 85% phosphoric acid....unless it has a recipe for dilution. It will have to be diluted at that concentration. High concentration phosphoric acid works just like muriatic acid. It will not "convert" rust...it removes it.
Also...do NOT rinse or flush the phosphoric acid once you use it. It MUST dry spend time on the rust/metal and must dry on there....so you did it right!
You just needed some flash rust.
And...what you are seeing in that black pooling...is likely the run-off of the black phosphate that you really needed.
I would properly flash rust your tank...and test what you have properly. The converted coating can look grayish black to bluish black.
I realize you are in Vancouver...but I think Ospho is available in Ontario. Maybe they can ship?
On second thought....phosphoric acid is phosphoric acid....the problem is that items like Ospho, have several key ingredients...phosphoric acid, a wetting agent etc.
BUT...if you can get that phosphoric acid and some tannic acid...you can make your own. Check out this thread on this website.
https://www.finishing.com/357/72.shtml
Finishing.com is the best. Also at the bottom of the page...the Canadian government has posted a do it yourself rust converter recipe!
Ray |
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raygreenwood
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Magion
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| Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:33 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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I appreciate your input on this. It is interesting.
I don't think I am going to make my own, just getting all the ingredients would be tough. But after little bit of reading looks like the very same place (Canadian Tire) I bough my Pro-Form now sells Rust Check
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-check-rust-converter-236-ml-0477964p.html#srp
And after reading through their MSDS here:
https://www.rustcheck.com/download/rust-check-rust-converter-11005-236ml_eng/
It looks like it has both Phosphoric (15-30%) and Tannic (7-15%) and some Isopropyl alcohol. So pretty close to Ospho, without the wetting agent. Fairly reasonable price at $11 per 236ml. Worst thing I buy two bottles.I think I will buy one and do some testing
Its neat that Canadian government has website dedicated to rust!
Also I love how every project on my bus usually turns into becoming an expert on something. Like when I restored my front seats once I was done I was an expert on seats knowing every detail inside out
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raygreenwood
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Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| Magion wrote: |
I appreciate your input on this. It is interesting.
I don't think I am going to make my own, just getting all the ingredients would be tough. But after little bit of reading looks like the very same place (Canadian Tire) I bough my Pro-Form now sells Rust Check
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-check-rust-converter-236-ml-0477964p.html#srp
And after reading through their MSDS here:
https://www.rustcheck.com/download/rust-check-rust-converter-11005-236ml_eng/
It looks like it has both Phosphoric (15-30%) and Tannic (7-15%) and some Isopropyl alcohol. So pretty close to Ospho, without the wetting agent. Fairly reasonable price at $11 per 236ml. Worst thing I buy two bottles.I think I will buy one and do some testing
Its neat that Canadian government has website dedicated to rust!
Also I love how every project on my bus usually turns into becoming an expert on something. Like when I restored my front seats once I was done I was an expert on seats knowing every detail inside out |
 .....you are now "experten"!
So just a suggestion moving forward.......the problem with many of these products.....is SOLUTION STRENGTH.
You need to examine the claims of the manufacturer .....and if you can.....the reviews.....carefully. Some have terms like "rust remover" or "rust killer". Too many of these products.....all with about the same ingredients.....have too high of a solution strength for RUST CONVERSION. They will literally REMOVE rust.....all of it down to bare metal.
In many cases.....this is what the buyer wants.....so the product gets a great review. A high solution strength product like that is just what a home repair person who is derusting lawn furniture prior to painting wants. Or the same could be said for an automotive hobbyist derusting a crusty suspension part. They want to DISSOLVE all rust.
But for someone who is working on something like a gas tank or the inside of a fender....where we have aready removed the vast majority of thick crusty rust.....and we simply want to neutralize the fine surfafe rust and rust in pits and fine scratches/cracks that sanding cannot reach.......we need a rust converter. Its lower solution strength.
Also.....the high solution strength rust REMOVERS.....should NOT be used on high carbon steel fasteners/bolts (typically grade 5 and up), spring steel or plated surfaces.....because the high solution strength will act just like muriatic acid and make these parts brittle.
I found out the hard way when I bought Jasco prep and prime the first time. I thought it was just like ospho. NO!.....its 2.5X the strength of ospho. I could not get it to "convert" rust to make a primer. It kept stripping it to bare metal.
The the MSDS sheet......can be deceiving. Example:
You can find two products whose ingredients say......30% phosphoric acid--10% tannic acid--20% IPA--10% wetting agent--30% water........but one....will strip rust and one will convert rust.
What could be the difference?
With one product.....the rust stripper......that 30% by volume of phosphoric......the phosphoric acid might have been 80% solution strength.....and the other one.....the rust converter.....its starting solution strength of that ingredient may have been only 40%.
The ingredients list in the MSDS sheet only tells the VOLUME of that ingredient in the mixture recipe......and not the starting solution strength of the ingredient that was added.
The manufacturer covers their ass......with statements like "10%-40%" ......meaning depending on how one might want to view the product.....its actual useful volume of an ingredient may be low or high depending on its solution strength.
So I learned to flash rust a surface or part....and try a dab of the product first to see if it converts without needing dilution with water.
When you dilute it....use distilled water. If you water has too much iron or minerals....it can weaken the solution. Ray |
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Patrick Metsker
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Posts: 112
Location: Indiana
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| Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2021 1:30 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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We still talking Gas Tanks?
May I inquire as well?
This is out of our 78, there is QUITE a bit of funk inside as you can see by the pics.
My friend owns a radiator shop and I can get it dipped for free.
Would I need to paint the exterior of the tank after dipping?
One last question: I didn't have those 'felt pads' under the straps on the tank,
should they be there?
I appreciate the help, I've done by best to read up on different methods of cleaning tanks, but since I can get it dipped for free....
[img][/img] |
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raygreenwood
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Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2021 9:15 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Yes....dipping the tank usually strips the external paint.
Depending on the dip type and its solution strength it will possibly flash rust inside or out or both fairly rapidly.
In that case.....its simple. Give it a once over inside and out with Ospho....let dry 24 hours....paint it outside and either oil the inside for storage or put it into use.
Yes.....you need the isolator pads between tank and straps or the vibration will wear holes in it. Ray |
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Magion
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| Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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I just thought I am gonna update the situation with my tank.
I proceeded with another wash with muriatic acid. I did get rid of my brown~golden~pink that was left behind that wierd rust convertor.
I kept it in there for only about 20-25 min.
Now its almost dry (on its own) and this is what it looks like. What caught my attention are those little brown spots as there are all over. I have a good rust convertor that will go in my tank to tomorrow. Hopefully it will work ok this time
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 8:56 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Ok......DO NOT use phosphoric acid yet.
A couple of issues here:
1. Those brown spots are surface flash rust. They are exactly whar you are looking for.....but there is not enough of it.
2. This is showing that your muriatic acid cleaning solution is too weak. I think I noted from your posts that you are using 50/50 water to acid?
That would normally be borderline workable. However.....i am betting that where you are.....just like here ......you are suffering from "Nanny culture" 
About 5-6 years ago.....sellers of muriatic acid....mostly home stores.....started carrying "reduced strength" muriatic acid. Its pretty much all you can get in most places unless you are buying it at a pool and spa shop.
Regular muriatic acid is about 31.5%. Its common that shitty pool shops are selling 20% muriatic acid. And so do many home stores. It will likely require at least one extra changeout of acid/water if diluted.....and also require a day or two of soaking. So twice as much time and twice as much acid.
And this product is pure crap
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Crown-1-Gallon-Muriatic-Acid/4146121
It is 10% solution strength. Its designed to prevent lung injuries from the fumes....for idiot home owners who are too lame to read directions and buy a respirator. It will not do what you need to do to your gas tank ....probably even undiluted.
3. So put your muriatic acid into the gas tank.....undiluted if its low strength. If the label reads 31.5%.....use it at a 70/30 acid to water dilution.
Slosh it around to coat all surfaces. Wait an hour or two. Then add some more. Slosh it around. Wait an hour or two.
Drain it out.
DO NOT rinse for about an hour or so. Then rinse once. DO NOT neutralize it.
Let it dry by itself.
You should see about 75% more flash rust than you have in your pictures. At that stage.....then you can use phoaphoric acid. Ray |
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Abscate
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 10:41 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Bit off topic, but does the tub get filled just by slosh?
How much fuel remains in the tank when the tub empties?
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 10:53 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| Abscate wrote: |
Bit off topic, but does the tub get filled just by slosh?
How much fuel remains in the tank when the tub empties? |
Im not sure what you mean by tub. I full the tank working over a tub to catch any spillage. I do not fill a tub with acid mixture and then soak the tank in it. To do that....in lime a 25 gallon tub......you would need several gallons of acid to make the solution strong enough to get the job done.....and then you would have a massive amount of solution to neutralize and dispose of.
But its an important question. I clean and rinse the tank several times before I put the acid in....and it,still has potentially dangerous fuel fumes.
Typically when I do a gas tank......I put a gallon or so of acid water mix......IN THE TANK. All holes duct taped except for a small bore/3mm vent tube....if yours has one.....with a clamped off hose on it so I can let of any pressure (it produces hydrogen gas). Slosh well. Let it sit and soak....slosh again....change positions....repeat. Add more acid if necessary for strength.....repeat.
Ray |
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Magion
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 11:56 am Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Thank you Ray. I appreciate you knowledge and input.
I looked it up and my muriatic is 31.74%. Yes i mixed it 50/50 with water.
I am trying to understand the process here...so you want to remove the existing layer of rust (that I had there) basically to create a new layer of rust that youโll convert using convertor. What is to goal? To have it covered completely by flash rust? What would happen of I used phosphoric now?
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Abscate
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| Abscate wrote: |
Bit off topic, but does the tub get filled just by slosh?
How much fuel remains in the tank when the tub empties? |
Im not sure what you mean by tub. I full the tank working over a tub to catch any spillage. I do not fill a tub with acid mixture and then soak the tank in it. To do that....in lime a 25 gallon tub......you would need several gallons of acid to make the solution strong enough to get the job done.....and then you would have a massive amount of solution to neutralize and dispose of.
But its an important question. I clean and rinse the tank several times before I put the acid in....and it,still has potentially dangerous fuel fumes.
Typically when I do a gas tank......I put a gallon or so of acid water mix......IN THE TANK. All holes duct taped except for a small bore/3mm vent tube....if yours has one.....with a clamped off hose on it so I can let of any pressure (it produces hydrogen gas). Slosh well. Let it sit and soak....slosh again....change positions....repeat. Add more acid if necessary for strength.....repeat.
Ray |
By tub ,I awash referring to internal, liter size baffle around the tank drain
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:49 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| Magion wrote: |
Thank you Ray. I appreciate you knowledge and input.
I looked it up and my muriatic is 31.74%. Yes i mixed it 50/50 with water.
I am trying to understand the process here...so you want to remove the existing layer of rust (that I had there) basically to create a new layer of rust that youโll convert using convertor. What is to goal? To have it covered completely by flash rust? What would happen of I used phosphoric now? |
Ok two important things that the muriatic acid does:
1. The muriatic acid......removes ALL rust. Because of its solution strength and its an oxidizing acid.... its the only acid that can remove deep crusty rust. This is because as the surface of thick rust is being dissolved.....it neutralizes the acid that comes in contact with it. So if you have thick crusty rust.....sloshing the acid around to keep it replenished....and/or refreshing the acid is KEY to getting ALL removed down to bare metal.
2. The second function of muriatic acid.....is that it is an OXIDIZING acid. Once you get all of the rust removed to bare metal.....having high strength muriatic acid in contact with steel or iron surfaces....breaks down some of the chloride ions only at the surface.....and creates excessive hydrogen (Im explaining that poorly).....which creates hydrogen embrittlement......which is what causes the flash rust.
This "flash rust".... is different than the crusty rust you are trying to remove with the muriatic acid.
Thicker Crusty rust more than about 0.003" thick....cannot be converted all the way through by phosphoric acid....because the phosphoric acid you SHOULD be using for surface conversion is not strong enough to reach more than about .003" into tbe rust layer before it gets neutralized by the reaction and the rusted surface gets sealed up..........which leaves a layer of rust underneath.....that can continue to rust.
But flash rust.....ranges from just a few microns thick.....to about 0.001" thick. And....this flash rust.....like all rust.....is molecularly bonded to your steel. The phosphoric acid can comvert this to iron phosphate all the way through the rust to the surface of the steel....and will now be a protective coating bonded molecularly....to the metal.
So.....first use muriatic acid to remove all rust ro bare metal.....AND....qllow soke contact pd fresh acid with the metal.....tocause flash rust. Then convert that flash rust with phosphoric acid. Then oil it for storage or install it and keep fuel in it......and it will likely never rust again.
Ray |
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busdaddy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 3:56 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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Thanks for the in depth explanation of the science Ray 
But I think you are making it sound much more complicated than it needs to be, sure in a perfect world we'd end up with X microns of inert coating in the tank, but having done close to 100 tanks using the wrong strength materials and rushing the finish I have yet to have one get rusty again or cause problems, some have been in service for 25 years or more. The important thing is to buy good fuel and keep it fresh, most of the tanks we see in these threads have been neglected for a long long time, drive the bus, tractor, mower, whatever regularly and it won't be a problem.
YMMV. 
Please don't take this the wrong way Ray, I respect your answers more than most of the posters here, I'm just saying there's more than one way to do it.
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
Thanks for the in depth explanation of the science Ray
But I think you are making it sound much more complicated than it needs to be, sure in a perfect world we'd end up with X microns of inert coating in the tank, but having done close to 100 tanks using the wrong strength materials and rushing the finish I have yet to have one get rusty again or cause problems, some have been in service for 25 years or more. The important thing is to buy good fuel and keep it fresh, most of the tanks we see in these threads have been neglected for a long long time, drive the bus, tractor, mower, whatever regularly and it won't be a problem.
YMMV.
Please don't take this the wrong way Ray, I respect your answers more than most of the posters here, I'm just saying there's more than one way to do it. |
All true.....but no....I am not over complicating it at all. Most are just over simplifying it...and thay can eventually have adverse effects.
Bear in mind.....that across just these forums here on the Samba...I end up explaining this....again and again....at least every 6 weeks.
If it were simple....dead simple and always succesful.....people would not have to keep asking!
More people have adverse issues than not.....either because of not knowing what order it needs to be done in....what they are looking for....or when the chemicals are right or wrong
At best....many end up stripping the tank and getting it clean and it works just fine as a clean bare tank......but many times it has no extra protection. The risk to that is mainly to those who drive little and live in humid areas. Water settles to the bottom and can rust.
Bear in mind as well.....if you have no rust to convert.....many of the phosphoric acid chemicals like Ospho....SHOULD NOT be used at all.
If you have no rust....and you are applying Ospho to bare metal....you get a bluish tint.....and no phosphate coating.... instead you get a thin polymer coating that will slough off in the fuel and clog filters.
Likewise....if you use muriatic acid.....you WILL always get some surface rust after the fact because it causes hydrogen embrittlement....always. It may be patchy like those in the latest pictures here.....and sure....you can use it just fine. But...it WILL keep rusting without conversion in those patchy surface rust areas.
So if you want simple......then DO NOT use muriatic acid. Use a high strength phosphoric acid undiluted....which strips the tank.....but does not convert rust (because there will be no rust).....and just rinse it out before it dries.
Nice clean tank.....but no protection of any kind. Keep it full and water free or it CAN eventually rust.
Lastly....this used to be much simpler. Phosphoric acid solutions were made for one thing....rust conversion....NOT rust removal. Many of the common products available have changed chemistry RADICALLY in the past five years or so. Some are much weaker...some are much stronger. Some have moved to chelating chemistry and have to be used in a totally different way.....and few seem to bother to download SDS or TDS's to find out,what they have.
Ray |
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busdaddy
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:42 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
....this used to be much simpler. Phosphoric acid solutions were made for one thing....rust conversion....NOT rust removal. Many of the common products available have changed chemistry RADICALLY in the past five years or so. Some are much weaker...some are much stronger. Some have moved to chelating chemistry and have to be used in a totally different way.....and few seem to bother to download SDS or TDS's to find out,what they have.
Ray |
Indeed, the goal posts keep moving. That's why I switched to the PH down, same results as the "professional" rust converters sold here for 1/8 the cost, you just have to be careful how you use it. (and yes, I followed all the instructions on the pro stuff, still takes off the flash instantly so why bother spending more?).
You may be onto something with using just the Phosphoric, I'll have to give that a try.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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ะกะปะฐะฒะฐ ะฃะบัะฐัะฝั! |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 42904
Location: at the beach
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:49 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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maybe this is why I just paid a local shop who services gas tanks to clean and check mine. Did Colin's too - he had a very thick layer of varnish on his tank that required cleaning. Drop off in morning, pick up in afternoon. No chemicals to deal with, only clean tank.
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 Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." That includes leftist politicians and their supporters with TDS.
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" |
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Patrick Metsker
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posts: 112
Location: Indiana
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| Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 7:08 pm Post subject: Re: Gas tank resealing gone bad! |
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My buddy who owns the radiator shop said:
โEasy peasy, bring it up get it back the next dayโ
tomorrow I drop it off
busdepot had these in stock as well
Fuel Filler Hose Part Reference Number 211201125D $19.95
I need to update my profile: 1978 Riviera Poptop 2.0 |
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